In your opinion which is the best bulb (haha stupid autocorrect) to use performance wise, and what heat for hid?
-
Last edited by curlyboy07; 04-05-2012, 10:57 PM. -
C cup. Not too big and not too small.
-
Smaller is better. Big ones get in the way.
Comment
-
Not to mention that when she goes running with you all of the other guys will be looking at her jumbly bits.My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!Comment
-
Ok considering I just read the typo, are u referring to the "bulbs" lolOriginally posted by deevergote View PostComment
-
I was referring to boobs.
Honestly, it doesn't matter which bulb you get these days. Even the cheapies seem to work fine, and the cost is low enough that replacing them won't kill your wallet. The only thing to keep in mind with the retrofit is that JDM lights are a bit tighter than the USDM glass ones, so some projectors that fit in the USDMs may not fit in the JDMs.
I'll move this back to the appearance section now that we're no longer talking about boobs...
Comment
-
Lol thanks, I don't seem to get where to post certain things
Im looking for something on the "good" side of the scale when it comes to the bulbs, not sport expensive but something that's had good performance and also what does "shut off" mean?Comment
-
If it affects the way your car looks, post it here. If it affects the way your car performs, post in the performance/technical section. If it has to do with your stereo, alarm, or other electronics, post in the audio/electronics section.
Shut off means nothing. Cut off means the point where the light stops. HIDs are prized for having a sharp cut off. Not glare bleeding all over the place.
I was looking for good cutoff pictures, and I came across this. This will explain a lot, and illustrate the cutoff quite well at the same time:
http://articles.dashzracing.com/car-...10000k-12000k/
Comment
-
As far as "heat" then that up to you... The higher the kelvin rating the more colorful (and in most instances more useless) your output will be. Personally, I wouldn't go anywhere past 6000k. 4300k is what I would use actually.
And you won't need to worry about your cutoff, from what your saying it sounds like you plan on using your stock housing for the HID. If you do a projector retrofit then cutoff is important.
... And if it has anything at all to do with boobs, post in the off topic section.Originally posted by deevergote View PostComment
-
Philips 85112+ or non-plus. Best bang for your buck IMO. Pretty much the standard in D2S bulbs. Only comes in 4300k. The + version stays true to the 4.3k color. White with a hint of yellow. The non-plus has a color shift from 4.3k-5k sometimes 6k later in the bulb's life.
Philips 85122+ 4.3k:
Form.Follows.FunctionComment
-
I like the ones you used, and I want to do a project retro fit, I just havent quite understood what a lot of the terms mean so i'm trying to get answers from other people that have done it so it can help me understand better, I read a couple diy but still don't understand what some things areOriginally posted by Function>Form View PostPhilips 85112+ or non-plus. Best bang for your buck IMO. Pretty much the standard in D2S bulbs. Only comes in 4300k. The + version stays true to the 4.3k color. White with a hint of yellow. The non-plus has a color shift from 4.3k-5k sometimes 6k later in the bulb's life.
Philips 85122+ 4.3k:
Deevergote thanks for the linkComment
-
If you have questions, just ask.Originally posted by curlyboy07 View Post
Form.Follows.FunctionComment
-
ThanksOriginally posted by Function>Form View PostIf you have questions, just ask.
I definitely will lolComment
Comment