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Paint question

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    #16
    Originally posted by KeeleDesign View Post
    Look at it like this.

    Your house inside is beautiful, and your nephew comes over and puts a hole in your drywall right in you living room where everyone sits and sees it.
    Now it is an eye sore and it needs to be repaired correctly so that the joints don't crack out and look ugly in the future. Just because someone didn't back brace it and mider the drywall joints and use fiber tape.
    Now thats done you need a professional to correctly prep and prime the surface so that the paint won't peel crack or delaminate in the future as well.
    The paint is old so a color sample is the best way to get it matched, so they take it and blend the paint out across the wall giving that seemless repair,

    At this point you feel like you hired a professional for the right job. And in deed you did, unfortunately something was wrong with the batch of primer that was sold to him and in less than 2 years time the paint begins to peel and crack and bubble off the wall that was fixed, This was not his fault but the products fault, would this have happened if he had baught a higher grade paint, more than likely not but all things are possible. His year warrenty is up so he will not repair the wall for free, even though he has a great reputation.

    At this point your frustrated but your not overwhelmed, because you realize you only painted the 1 wall by only painting that one infected area you were able to keep failure from happening to your whole house, or the rooms connected to the color that was repaired.
    Put your car in the story and you'll see my point of view.
    Keep repairs as small as possible, and don't put a lesser quality product over something that is nice to begin with.
    I like what you had to say. It really explained it all to a point!. My paint doesnt look like a old 20 year old faded paintjob. The 1st owner looked like they waxed it and kept it in a garage for most of its life. And the owner before me took very good care of it(thanks geo). But i think ill call afew paintjob places today and see what they got for prices. But if its anywhere close to $400 then ill just get a maaco paintjob. Like deev said a new paintjob will make my car look brand new!


    Bought from:AbsurdNY,92smokeaccord,cb7inct,nevi325,xkjnboix,cb 7resurrector,JoshM

    MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203451

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      #17
      AccordWarrior had his rear quarter panels replaced. The repair, plus a colormatched paintjob on the back of the car only cost him about $3500. The paint was very well done. The welding was well done. He was happy with it, BUT, you could see the difference between the new paint and the old paint. The old paint was in great shape, but after 16 years out in the elements it faded. The blend was good, but if you looked at just the rear, and then just the front, the difference was noticeable. AccordWarrior lives in MA, near CT... which means his car was exposed to similar weather conditions as yours.

      If you get this one area colormatched professionally, it's not going to be cheap. It will also be done on that fiberglassed panel, which would be a waste of time, IMO.


      When I got my car painted for the second time, my friend and I discussed swapping trunklids. He wanted my sedan lid on his coupe, and I wanted his coupe lid on my sedan. For me, it'd be simple... slap his green lid on my gray car and have it all sprayed. For him, he needed to have my gray lid colormatched. Maaco told him that it would be cheaper to paint his whole car than it would be for them to colormatch just the trunklid. Painting my whole car at Maaco cost me about $650... so essentially, they were saying a colormatch would cost more than $650. At cheap-ass Maaco. Finding a pro to do it for under $400 is probably not going to happen, unless you know someone that will do you a favor. If you do find someone that would do it for under $400, I'd question their quality.


      Brandon, would YOU do a colormatched quarter panel for $400?






      Honestly, if this were involving a properly repaired quarter panel, and not a fiberglass job, I'd be more inclined to side with Keele on this. But since it's a temporary fix, having a temporary-fix type paintjob makes more sense. When the panel is repaired properly, a proper paintjob can be applied.






      Comment


        #18
        Originally posted by KeeleDesign View Post
        Fiberglass won't be rusting out on you.
        It'll be cracking out, as metal and fiberglass expand and contract at different rates.

        Most any local body shop in your area would be willing to paint your quarter panel and blend your door for a very reasonable price. If you truely think your car is in great shape, an all over paint job is not needed to make your paint match. Any body shop can color tint your paint to match fairly easily.

        By staying on the 2 panels, you'll have less chance of something failing as well.
        x2, thats the way to go...

        i dont know how the rust was repaired on the quarter panel, but just by looking on how the primer was done, it looks like a nice job...could be wrong but it is the right way of shooting primer...at least...

        now just go to a bodyshop get them to prep and paint your quarter panel and blend in the door, if the guys are pros, you will barely see any difference...worst that will happen is a no match from the quarter to the trunk..cause we never blend trunks in a bodyshop for a job like this

        if the new paint is too shiny compared to the old one, just buff the old sections to give them a ''like new'' shine...

        also if u wanna do a custum paint with a color change...then maybe u should wait for the complete paintjob before painting just the quarter panel...a re-paint over a re-paint CAN make some unwanted reactions and/or make the repairs ''sink''

        and stay away from rattle-can paints, they are crap no matter what because first, u get more thinner then paint out of the can....second, the pressure at wich the paint come out of the can isnt enough for a nice finish and finally, primers and clear coats in the automotive industry are catalized products while rattle-can products are lacquers (wich can be re-reduced with thinner once dryed...so its crap) a rattle-can job WILL rust again...

        MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201008

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          #19
          Originally posted by Cb7_Qc View Post
          x2, thats the way to go...

          i dont know how the rust was repaired on the quarter panel, but just by looking on how the primer was done, it looks like a nice job...could be wrong but it is the right way of shooting primer...at least...
          If you are going to give advice, especially regarding something that could be VERY expensive... at least do the OP the courtesy of reading the entire thread before you reply. This has been discussed... the repair is fiberglass, and will eventually crack (or have the metal rust around it.)






          Comment


            #20
            Originally posted by markrutherford View Post
            Ya that had to suck! All my rust was cut off and fiberglassed. But i looked for rust for over an hour and couldnt find anything! Thank god! Because I hate rust! But ya ill hold them to that warranty or ill have to bring there asses to court because it will be a written agreement
            you are right, i missed that post...my mistake and i am sorry
            altought it changes only the first sentence of my post...

            everything else that i said is still true and valuable info
            you asked if duplicolor rattle-can paints wer any good i answered and i explained why they are not.
            and if u eventually want to do a nice paint job with a color change u will need that quarter panel repaired properly first of all...

            do it once do it right...

            MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201008

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              #21
              Yes.
              I would prep the quarter and tare down the door and blend it including the door handle out for $400.
              Unfortunately I'd have to tape the molding off, as they have metal strips in them that cause them to bend once removed, and oe replacements are outright expensive. Sometimes the chrome molding comes off with ease, othertimes they bend as well. It just depends on the car.

              I could knock this stuff out with ease. But we have the right tools and the right setup.

              My side jobs are always on the cheap side to help out people. My quality doesn't change.
              And I keep telling people to associat themselves with a good body-shop, because I know their have to be more people or painters out their like myself.
              "Self Renewed"

              Comment


                #22
                if you are looking just for a quick fix and are looking to do the whole thing a little later might i suggest you go to an auto repair shop and purchase a can of oem color match paint then blend and buff. i have a frost white accord and i bought a 7 dollar can just to do touch ups until i can afford a white pearl with blue flake paint job.

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