Originally posted by KeeleDesign
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ANY BUYING/SELLING IN THIS FORUM WILL RESULT IN AN INSTANT BAN!
Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956
Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
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Beginner Forum Rules - EVERYBODY read! (old and new members alike!)
Beginners start here. Once you have 30 worthwhile posts (off topic doesn't count) you may post outside of the Beginner forums. Any "whoring" (posting simply to raise your post count) will return your count to 0, or result in a ban.
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The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
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Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.
4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
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Paint question
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Bought from:AbsurdNY,92smokeaccord,cb7inct,nevi325,xkjnboix,cb 7resurrector,JoshM
MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203451
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AccordWarrior had his rear quarter panels replaced. The repair, plus a colormatched paintjob on the back of the car only cost him about $3500. The paint was very well done. The welding was well done. He was happy with it, BUT, you could see the difference between the new paint and the old paint. The old paint was in great shape, but after 16 years out in the elements it faded. The blend was good, but if you looked at just the rear, and then just the front, the difference was noticeable. AccordWarrior lives in MA, near CT... which means his car was exposed to similar weather conditions as yours.
If you get this one area colormatched professionally, it's not going to be cheap. It will also be done on that fiberglassed panel, which would be a waste of time, IMO.
When I got my car painted for the second time, my friend and I discussed swapping trunklids. He wanted my sedan lid on his coupe, and I wanted his coupe lid on my sedan. For me, it'd be simple... slap his green lid on my gray car and have it all sprayed. For him, he needed to have my gray lid colormatched. Maaco told him that it would be cheaper to paint his whole car than it would be for them to colormatch just the trunklid. Painting my whole car at Maaco cost me about $650... so essentially, they were saying a colormatch would cost more than $650. At cheap-ass Maaco. Finding a pro to do it for under $400 is probably not going to happen, unless you know someone that will do you a favor. If you do find someone that would do it for under $400, I'd question their quality.
Brandon, would YOU do a colormatched quarter panel for $400?
Honestly, if this were involving a properly repaired quarter panel, and not a fiberglass job, I'd be more inclined to side with Keele on this. But since it's a temporary fix, having a temporary-fix type paintjob makes more sense. When the panel is repaired properly, a proper paintjob can be applied.
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Originally posted by KeeleDesign View PostFiberglass won't be rusting out on you.
It'll be cracking out, as metal and fiberglass expand and contract at different rates.
Most any local body shop in your area would be willing to paint your quarter panel and blend your door for a very reasonable price. If you truely think your car is in great shape, an all over paint job is not needed to make your paint match. Any body shop can color tint your paint to match fairly easily.
By staying on the 2 panels, you'll have less chance of something failing as well.
i dont know how the rust was repaired on the quarter panel, but just by looking on how the primer was done, it looks like a nice job...could be wrong but it is the right way of shooting primer...at least...
now just go to a bodyshop get them to prep and paint your quarter panel and blend in the door, if the guys are pros, you will barely see any difference...worst that will happen is a no match from the quarter to the trunk..cause we never blend trunks in a bodyshop for a job like this
if the new paint is too shiny compared to the old one, just buff the old sections to give them a ''like new'' shine...
also if u wanna do a custum paint with a color change...then maybe u should wait for the complete paintjob before painting just the quarter panel...a re-paint over a re-paint CAN make some unwanted reactions and/or make the repairs ''sink''
and stay away from rattle-can paints, they are crap no matter what because first, u get more thinner then paint out of the can....second, the pressure at wich the paint come out of the can isnt enough for a nice finish and finally, primers and clear coats in the automotive industry are catalized products while rattle-can products are lacquers (wich can be re-reduced with thinner once dryed...so its crap) a rattle-can job WILL rust again...
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Originally posted by Cb7_Qc View Postx2, thats the way to go...
i dont know how the rust was repaired on the quarter panel, but just by looking on how the primer was done, it looks like a nice job...could be wrong but it is the right way of shooting primer...at least...
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Originally posted by markrutherford View PostYa that had to suck! All my rust was cut off and fiberglassed. But i looked for rust for over an hour and couldnt find anything! Thank god! Because I hate rust! But ya ill hold them to that warranty or ill have to bring there asses to court because it will be a written agreement
altought it changes only the first sentence of my post...
everything else that i said is still true and valuable info
you asked if duplicolor rattle-can paints wer any good i answered and i explained why they are not.
and if u eventually want to do a nice paint job with a color change u will need that quarter panel repaired properly first of all...
do it once do it right...
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Yes.
I would prep the quarter and tare down the door and blend it including the door handle out for $400.
Unfortunately I'd have to tape the molding off, as they have metal strips in them that cause them to bend once removed, and oe replacements are outright expensive. Sometimes the chrome molding comes off with ease, othertimes they bend as well. It just depends on the car.
I could knock this stuff out with ease. But we have the right tools and the right setup.
My side jobs are always on the cheap side to help out people. My quality doesn't change.
And I keep telling people to associat themselves with a good body-shop, because I know their have to be more people or painters out their like myself."Self Renewed"
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if you are looking just for a quick fix and are looking to do the whole thing a little later might i suggest you go to an auto repair shop and purchase a can of oem color match paint then blend and buff. i have a frost white accord and i bought a 7 dollar can just to do touch ups until i can afford a white pearl with blue flake paint job.
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