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Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.
4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
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Whats the cheapest good camber kit?
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The more experienced members in previous posts have leaned towards SPC and Ingalls camber correction kits. They are correct. Do not cheap out on critical suspension pieces.
I will add one more option that Deevergote often raves about. TasAuto sells a front upper control arm with a pre-installed Ingalls ball joint kit. Here is one of his old posts below:
Originally posted by deevergote View PostI would get the TASauto front upper control arm. It's an Ingalls ball joint kit in a brand new control arm, complete with poly bushings. Personally, I don't trust pressing out the stock ball joint to install a ball joint camber kit, so replaceing the stock arms with more stock arms if you want a camber kit could be pointless.
Rear stuff, I think Ingalls and Megan Racing both made decent products. Or you could just replace the bushings and do the "washer trick" for camber correction.Original-Owner 1991 Honda Accord
2005 Acura TSX 6MT
2010 Mazda Miata Grand Touring
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Originally posted by DJ metadelic View PostI think Mike (deev) has mentioned that his experience with that company was far from satisfactory. I've heard it from others as well, but I have no personal experience with that brand, so I can't speak from my own opinion as knowledge on them.
You might be able to get away with dropping the front of her down a couple inches, getting an alignment, and making sure your toe is in check..and waiting to see if you're going to need camber correction or not. I've been dropped just a little over 2" front/rear before and never needed a kit. You could then potentially go with an adjustable rear UCA like a Megan unit for the rear if you want to go 3".
DO NOT get a cheap camber kit. Ingalls and SPC are the ONLY companies I would trust. Honestly, the TASauto upper control arm (equipped with an Ingalls ball joint style camber kit already installed) is all I would really suggest. It's not cheap, but it's well worth the price (and for what you get, it's a good deal)
If a camber kit breaks, either the ball joint or anchor bolt style, it will be no different than the OEM ball joint failing. You WILL crash.
The difference is a couple hundred bucks at most. An accident will cost you far more than that... if it doesn't kill you. Save your money to do it right. Actually... don't save. Do it NOW, that way you aren't spending an unnecessary $300+ on new tires as well!
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I have the ingalls and absolutely hate them. It constantly hits the top of my wheel well. I'm not dropped that low and I'm riding on teins basics.
As referring to the 5 lug, If you go the prelude front, its supposed to correct your camber when dropped. The Odyssey does nothing for camber issues.
I need a good reliable anchor set of camber kit which no one makes. I'm thinking about just taking out the ingall ball joint and putting in a stock ball joint. Camber is that bad on the car but the front butter flies enough where I get irritated.
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idk about any camber kits
if you get an alignment and toe fixed you should be good to go
my car is slammed all the way on coilovers
i have stock wheels/stock tire recommendation 195/60/15
my camber is super negative but surprisingly my tires arent wearing at all
ive been lowered for 2 months+ and my tires barely show wear
idk if its my tires or just the stock offset prevents camber but my tires are good for another 3 months-Tyler
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Originally posted by jimy View PostI have the ingalls and absolutely hate them. It constantly hits the top of my wheel well. I'm not dropped that low and I'm riding on teins basics.
As referring to the 5 lug, If you go the prelude front, its supposed to correct your camber when dropped. The Odyssey does nothing for camber issues.
I need a good reliable anchor set of camber kit which no one makes. I'm thinking about just taking out the ingall ball joint and putting in a stock ball joint. Camber is that bad on the car but the front butter flies enough where I get irritated.
Originally posted by tm123 View Postidk about any camber kits
if you get an alignment and toe fixed you should be good to go
my car is slammed all the way on coilovers
i have stock wheels/stock tire recommendation 195/60/15
my camber is super negative but surprisingly my tires arent wearing at all
ive been lowered for 2 months+ and my tires barely show wear
idk if its my tires or just the stock offset prevents camber but my tires are good for another 3 months
If you are riding on the inside edges of your tires, you are wearing them prematurely. That's fact. It cannot be changed.
Yes, getting your toe aligned will definitely help your tires live longer, but you should ALWAYS do that anyway! Toe and camber are two completely different angles.
Your tires are wearing, don't worry. If they would normally last 50,000 miles, you'll get maybe 25,000 out of them with mild camber left uncorrected. Take a wheel off after about 8,000 miles, look at the tire... the wear will be noticeable at that point, I assure you.
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personally, reliable companies should be first on your list even though they are expensive but if your working on a budget i kno a handful of guys with civic/integra that have nothing but EBAY PRODUCTS on their car and they beat on them nearly everyday and so far i havent heard of any of them killing themselves or getting into accidents.
Originally posted by Uncle WilleyWhen I die, I want to go peacefully like my Grandfather did, in his sleep -- not screaming, like the passengers in his car.
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Originally posted by JaberCB7 View Postpersonally, reliable companies should be first on your list even though they are expensive but if your working on a budget i kno a handful of guys with civic/integra that have nothing but EBAY PRODUCTS on their car and they beat on them nearly everyday and so far i havent heard of any of them killing themselves or getting into accidents.
I've had a cheap camber kit. I'm not talking from some high-and-mighty "I only buy expensive parts" standpoint. When I tell someone not to get a cheap camber kit, it's because I've been there. There was about 1/8" of metal remaining, keeping me from ending up landing upside down and on fire in a ditch at 65mph. One side failed completely. The other side was barely hanging on. If that let go, I'd have been dead.
Was that worth saving $100? I REALLY don't think my life is worth $100...
if you can't do it right, don't do it at all. Suspension, brakes, tires, lights... these things are imperative to your safety. If you want to buy cheap parts, buy them for your motor... at least if that blows up, you won't die.
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Originally posted by HardInThePaint View PostU must not have a lot of experience with camber kits on CB's. Thats always gonna happen regardless of what kit or brand. There are ways to remedy that tho...
See how big that nut is.
The other option is to get anchor kits. Where it'll actually push the control arm out ward.Last edited by jimy; 04-26-2010, 02:07 PM.
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