wetsand

[cb3 vtec]

any threads or links teaching how to wetsand?sorry for the dumb question,i need to wetsand some spots that are rusted and some other problemsi would appreciate your help

[SinCityCB702]

dont know of any links but.. its pretty simple... all you need is a spritzer bottle or an old bottle of windex fill it with warm water and a few drops of dish soap.. pick your grit of sandpaper depending on the job ..wet the car or what ever section your doing..wet the sand paper and start at it... keep spraying the area your working on and what ever you do dont let it get dry while your sanding...you could sto and check how your doing..just get a dry towel and dry off the area ur working on and it should look nice and flat no shine at all.. if you see any shine or orange peal you got some more work to do.. when ur happy with the results clean off the area/spot and use a good grade rubbing compound like3m to bring the shine back out..hit it a couple of times if you want more shine...go over it with a clear coat

[KeeleDesign]

you don't need to wetsand rust.

[GROUND LEVEL]

I Love That Frontend

[xkjnboix]

i love the front end too HAHA 2x u stole the words from my head ground level !

as far as wet sanding i would expecially not wetsand rust cause that would create a habitat for even more rust haha just sand like normal and light prime it if you are leaving it exposed over night.

[bcjammerx]

fixing rust is at the beginning of the paint job, wet sand is for near the end of the job

[cb3 vtec]

I Love That Frontend

thanks man

[cb3 vtec]

i love the front end too HAHA 2x u stole the words from my head ground level !

as far as wet sanding i would expecially not wetsand rust cause that would create a habitat for even more rust haha just sand like normal and light prime it if you are leaving it exposed over night.

thanks bro,we're the same but in different colours

[cb3 vtec]

actually i was planning to repaint my hood because the colour isfadiing,so what would i do first before starting to paint?

[KeeleDesign]

the ideal thing for your hood, would be to get an orbital DA with an air compressor to run it, use 180 grit untill all the rock chips are feathered out and all the orange peal is sanded out. as your clear seams to have de oxidized you need to strip the top layer of clear off as well.

then you'd need to use a 2k primer on your hood. wait 8-10 min in between medium to wet coats on a 75 degree day, at 10 minutes of waiting per 10 degress lower than that. I'd put 3-4 coats on.

once this has cured for a day or 2 unless you have a booth to bake your car. you'll wana use a trim black paint as guide coat, unless you have guide coat..

lightly spray the primered area just letting dotts appear on the hood, not full coverage,

idealy, I dry block my primer with 320 grit and a long block untill all orange peal and imperfections are gone. once they are.

I use 3m's 500 grit to wet sand the hood, once more you should have guide coate on before sanding, as now you are just removing the 320 grit scratches that you need to be able and see.

if you plan on sealing the hood before you spray your paint you can stop here.. if not, you need to regude caot and wetsand with 600 grit, untill it is flawlessly sanded, as silver will show up all imperfections.

as you begin to spray your paint, you would wanna have a good quality paint gun, I preffer HVLP SATA JETS,, i use a satajet nr2000 with a 1.4 tip for all sealers and basecoats, and a satajet 3000 digital with a 1.3 tip for clearing.

I run about 24 psi for basecoat and 32 for clear with spies hecker paint with these guns.

when i am spraying autocolor paint, i spray base at 16 psi, and clear at 24 psi. Every paint has a diff consistancy, and every air compressor has a diff flow rate so their is no way of accurately telling you what it should be set at.

If you have never sprayed paint before you may regret trying to spray silver. seriously. But if you insist... make sure you have some sort of air drier on your air compressor, with flawlessly clean hoses. otherwise. you will have a mess on your hands with fisheyes, etc...... trash galloure.

I just realized i could go on for another 30 min... but in all honestly, it would be nearly 1/5th the cost with a better job to have a local shop paint it for you.

[cb3 vtec]

the ideal thing for your hood, would be to get an orbital DA with an air compressor to run it, use 180 grit untill all the rock chips are feathered out and all the orange peal is sanded out. as your clear seams to have de oxidized you need to strip the top layer of clear off as well.

then you'd need to use a 2k primer on your hood. wait 8-10 min in between medium to wet coats on a 75 degree day, at 10 minutes of waiting per 10 degress lower than that. I'd put 3-4 coats on.

once this has cured for a day or 2 unless you have a booth to bake your car. you'll wana use a trim black paint as guide coat, unless you have guide coat..

lightly spray the primered area just letting dotts appear on the hood, not full coverage,

idealy, I dry block my primer with 320 grit and a long block untill all orange peal and imperfections are gone. once they are.

I use 3m's 500 grit to wet sand the hood, once more you should have guide coate on before sanding, as now you are just removing the 320 grit scratches that you need to be able and see.

if you plan on sealing the hood before you spray your paint you can stop here.. if not, you need to regude caot and wetsand with 600 grit, untill it is flawlessly sanded, as silver will show up all imperfections.

as you begin to spray your paint, you would wanna have a good quality paint gun, I preffer HVLP SATA JETS,, i use a satajet nr2000 with a 1.4 tip for all sealers and basecoats, and a satajet 3000 digital with a 1.3 tip for clearing.

I run about 24 psi for basecoat and 32 for clear with spies hecker paint with these guns.

when i am spraying autocolor paint, i spray base at 16 psi, and clear at 24 psi. Every paint has a diff consistancy, and every air compressor has a diff flow rate so their is no way of accurately telling you what it should be set at.

If you have never sprayed paint before you may regret trying to spray silver. seriously. But if you insist... make sure you have some sort of air drier on your air compressor, with flawlessly clean hoses. otherwise. you will have a mess on your hands with fisheyes, etc...... trash galloure.

I just realized i could go on for another 30 min... but in all honestly, it would be nearly 1/5th the cost with a better job to have a local shop paint it for you.

damn.. thats alot of work,im considering going to the paint shop lol,thanks yall

[oneoffaccord]

you have do no idea how much work it is when before you paint something. doing it yourself is way cheaper but then you have the headache of doing the work yourself because what is in store.

[KeeleDesign]

yeah it's cheaper when you know what your doing, and already have bought all the tools and supplies you need. at work ideally i can have a hood cut primed blocked painted cleared baked back on the car, in under 3 hours, only using around $45 in material. having the customer pick it up before lunch, that includes color snading and buffing if nessicary.

but when you have a computer program and scale to correctly mix all componants without any waste whatsoever... and having all my tools their for my profession is what makes all the difference.

i mean seriously, i have 4 satajet guns. and $2700 just in those 4 guns. so don't give me it's cheaper to do it yourself and have a high quality job, when most don't own the equipment needed.

[yoracing]

thanks man

rust is like cancer.. only gets worst!!
what kind of lip is that..

[PakaloloHonda]

You Might Get Lucky

and find another hood at your local junk-yard ..?

Maybe even the same color .. it would be alot less work, and prolly alot less $$$.
They're easy to take off and put back on too ..

And I agree .. that is a sexy front-end ..

Tomi