I have rust about the size of a hockey blade above my bumper on the side of the accord...Would any of you know the price to get it cut out, and have sheet metal welded in? Also, could anyone recommend a rust spray that would completely stop the rust build up? (hopefully from Canadian Tire or Parts Source) If the rust repair is too costly then I might have to just resort to my 2nd option.
Announcement
Collapse
1 of 2
<
>
ANY BUYING/SELLING IN THIS FORUM WILL RESULT IN AN INSTANT BAN!
Read the rules: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=43956
Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
2 of 2
<
>
Beginner Forum Rules - EVERYBODY read! (old and new members alike!)
Beginners start here. Once you have 30 worthwhile posts (off topic doesn't count) you may post outside of the Beginner forums. Any "whoring" (posting simply to raise your post count) will return your count to 0, or result in a ban.
These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.
4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
2) Use appropriate language. Racial or sexual slurs will not be tolerated. A ban will be issued at the discretion of the cb7tuner.com staff.
3) No items may be sold in the Beginner forums. Any "for sale" threads will be deleted.
4) Temporarily banned members will be PERMANTLY banned if they are found posting on another account.
The rules can and will be added to. Any updates will be marked in the title.
The rules for the overall forum can be found here:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/forumdisplay.php?f=144
Read them. You will be expected to follow them.
See more
See less
Rust Repair
Collapse
X
-
its sounding like your talking about the quarters. If so they make patch panels. Get those and have them welded in. Your gonna pay somewhere between 400-1000 to have it put it and welded."you can catch me swoopin 4G coupin switchin lanes" haha haha.
1993 SE coupe drag car ahoy!
1992 EX coupe 5 spd **sold **
1991 LX sedan 5 spd **tore the tranny apart**
sold to: jakfrostwhite,F22Cb7Rid3r, and many others
Did work for: jhoff_cb7
Traded with: 1990AccordEX,pr3pg4lyfe
Comment
-
usually though, its the inside of the quarterpanel thats infected, not just the outside its showing you. Usually in the entire quarterpanel is infected due to the jap. sheet metal and the bad drain holes over time. I have a website to purchase a whole quarterpanel for about 800$ on eachside, a little more on the drivers side, with inner parts too.
Comment
-
Originally posted by 1990AccordBoy View Postusually though, its the inside of the quarterpanel thats infected, not just the outside its showing you. Usually in the entire quarterpanel is infected due to the jap. sheet metal and the bad drain holes over time. I have a website to purchase a whole quarterpanel for about 800$ on eachside, a little more on the drivers side, with inner parts too.
Comment
-
Read Me!
You will soon learn to search young CB7 grasshopper. I posted this a while back. Hope it helps.
I've had some recent experience with the ever famous, "RUST ON THE REAR WHEEL WELLS." Upon repairing the dents & dings that have gathered on the body of my '91 Accord EX, I believe I have cracked the case of the rust goblins!! The following is how to cure this ailment that has fallen upon our CB7's:
Note: This all depends on how much work you choose to correct the rust problem and if you or the body shop will be doing the prep-work.
1) You're going to have to remove the back bumper (which is a job in itself). I had taken mine off to install a body kit instead anyway but it's easier if you have someone to help you do this to minimize damage to the bumper.
2) You'll now be able to see the obvious rust that's been eating away at your car. Rust went more than skin deep huh? Don't be too surprised if it looks hideous under there and you can chip some of the weaker pieces away.
3) This is the fun part when you get to take your cutting wheel and slice that nasty rust outta there. (You might want to tape it off to keep your lines straighter). Also there are two layers of metal in there, so just place about a 1/4"-1/2" of the wheel into the metal for the very outside layer. **The inside layer may need to come out too but just take the top one first.**
4) Once you've cut out the desired rectangular piece, toss it aside for later and clear the body of any burs, jagged edges, etc. You're going to see a healthy dab of this hard putty substance (I think it's body glue or somethin'). Depending on when your last car wash or rainstorm was, there may even be some moisture and condensation on and around this area. This is also the what I believe to be the center of all that is evil=the RUST CENTER!!
5) Take your utility knife (make sure it's a good one) and (WATCH YOUR FINGERS!!) slice near the base of this substance until you cut it away or can pry it off with your hand.
6) Remember that piece that you cut off from earlier, use that as a stencil to cut your new piece from... wherever. Sadly, but luckily, I got mine from my wrecked '93 Accord front fender cause the contour lines were about the same). Make sure to keep this piece a little bit bigger as the cutting wheel leaves about an 1/8" wide cut.
7) Once the new piece is to your liking, line it up and use vice grips to hold one side of it while "you" or "your buddy" (in my case) welds it to the rest of the body. Have some water handy to cool the weld, and relocate the vice grips to the opposite side and complete the weld.
8) Use a body hammer (if available) or a good ball-peen hammer will work to match the new piece to the car. I suggest using the flat part for the "underside" of the fender and the pointed side to "finesse" the contour lines of the car. (At this point, it's gonna look like shit... that's alright cause in the near future you'll be covering it with body filler anyway. If you've a good welder and someone that does a decent job, the next step will be easier.
9) Use an air grinder and take down all of the high points of the welds so the metal will look all shiny and pretty smooth. **If you grind too much here, you're going to loose some the bridge welds that were made earlier so take the time to stop and look every few seconds to check.**
10) Now it's time to make ya nice hot mix of body filler. **If you don't have time for this step, just spray some canned primer on there to keep a lot of moisture from the new metal.** Everyone knows the drill for body filler... mix, apply, harden, file, 220 on the DA to blend and feather the edges. It's probably going to take some time for this one as you'll need to stop and feel along your work for high/low places. In either case, you'll probably be slinging more body filler on and repeating step#10 to perfect your job.
Congrats!! You're now ready to paint!! If you're doing you're own body work (which saves some labor $$$) and trying to rid yourself of that rust, that's the way to do it. I had to do that for both wheel wells and most people will need to at some point in their CB7's lifetime. Hope this helps you and anyone else out. **I wasn't trying to dumb it down or anything... I just wanted to be detailed about the job itself and include all that I could to make it clear.** It seems like a big job and really those 10 steps won't take but an hr to hr and 1/2 to complete. Good Luck fellow CB7 Tuner!! Hit the site with any other questions bro. Later!
Comment
-
Originally posted by 93ArcadiaCB7 View PostThank you so much. Don't suppose anyone experienced around here (CO) would want to earn some extra cash in doing a job like this?
I'm a far cry away from CO. I've only had to do it once and I had someone to weld that piece in. Good Luck! Hope everything turns out alright.
Comment
-
I hate rust.. I agree with everyone else. You should just buy a whole new panel. On ebay or something. lol
Slamage is worth the Damage
Originally posted by crazymikey"Yes, we did officer. By the way, your eyes look a little glazed, did you just come from the donut shop?"
Comment
Comment