So.Cal Mechanics Thread

[R33cb7]

Auto Shift Lock Bypass

Question: I swapped my F22A6 for an H22A Auto with LSD. How do you bypass the auto shift lock? I tried this from the Swap FAQ Thread:

"To make the shift lock operate properly you will need to run a wire from the shifter position switch to the tranny controller. On the left side of the shifter there is a box with about 5/6 wires going into it. This is the shifter position switch. You need to tap into the GRN/WHT wire and run it back to pin A7 on the TCM. Plug A is the bigger of the 2 plugs."

I tried this and it didn't work.

Any thoughts on how to make this work? I've read that other members could not get this to work as well. Maybe the FAQ was written wrong. HELP!

[4CYLPOWER92]

I have a question. I did all the tune up on my car (f22a4), new o2, ignition parts, timing, valve adj, seafoamed, decent oil, and mine is a stick, but my mpg is bearly 20 in the city. I only drive local from house to school to work. I'm a mild driver, no launches, rarely reving pass 4500. My friend's auto integra gets 20 easily and he never let go of the gas.

What's my problem here? anything else should I look into?

You should be at closer to 26mpg all city with the manual F22, if your engine is healthy. But if your engine has lower compression due to high milage, you might get less. You'll also get less if you are driving very short distances, and your engine doesn't have time to get warm and stay warm in between stops. You'll also want to make sure you have the OEM spark plugs, and even the OEM o2 sensor. I've heard bad things about aftermarket ones. Don't forget tire pressure as well.

Question: I swapped my F22A6 for an H22A Auto with LSD. How do you bypass the auto shift lock? I tried this from the Swap FAQ Thread:

"To make the shift lock operate properly you will need to run a wire from the shifter position switch to the tranny controller. On the left side of the shifter there is a box with about 5/6 wires going into it. This is the shifter position switch. You need to tap into the GRN/WHT wire and run it back to pin A7 on the TCM. Plug A is the bigger of the 2 plugs."

I tried this and it didn't work.

Any thoughts on how to make this work? I've read that other members could not get this to work as well. Maybe the FAQ was written wrong. HELP!

You might try PM'ing Damian aka Jeremy, I think I remember him talking about the solution to this, and the FAQ being wrong.

[2.2litrebeater]

my car takes a long time to start, usually over 5-10 seconds of cranking. it has been gettting longer every day and seams worst when cold. once it starts its pretty good, sometimes it idles low at a stop sign but no other issues. the plugs look fine but im changing them tomorrow anyway, wires are old and are getting changed as well.

[4CYLPOWER92]

my car takes a long time to start, usually over 5-10 seconds of cranking. it has been gettting longer every day and seams worst when cold. once it starts its pretty good, sometimes it idles low at a stop sign but no other issues. the plugs look fine but im changing them tomorrow anyway, wires are old and are getting changed as well.

This used to always happen with my F22. I wondered if I was loosing fuel pressure over night. I never did figure that out. Please update the thread if you solve the problem.

[dwnhillCB791]

Ok so my car makes this nasty ass sound when I start it up to warm it up, it makes this loud like cherping sound like a damn bird is in my car. It something that's rotating on my car cus it gets progressivly faster and louder, then by the time my car warms up it just goes away. I think it might be something connectet to my power steering, like maybe a pulley needs oil or something. It sounds LOUD as fuck and nasty as hell any suggestions?

[casterX]

^sounds like one of the pulley bearings about to go.. by any chance you recently drove it into some flooded roads? or it might be just a loose belt..

[dwnhillCB791]

No floods lol, but touge took a toll on my car, ya I think its the belts or a bearing, conencted to my power steering but wasn't to sure.

[GHOST 2.2]

since im converting from an h22a4 to jdm h22a and transferring the obd2 components to the h22a

would i run into tuning issues since the jdm motor has a higher compression compared to the a4?

[cb9tuner]

since im converting from an h22a4 to jdm h22a and transferring the obd2 components to the h22a

would i run into tuning issues since the jdm motor has a higher compression compared to the a4?

are you going to tune the motor or just use your usdm p13? I dont think you will run into problems just have all your sensors and shit all intact I think your main concern would be swaping your crank signal I think you need to swap your oil pump dont quote me on it but I think thats the hardest part of converting obd1-obd2

[GHOST 2.2]

are you going to tune the motor or just use your usdm p13? I dont think you will run into problems just have all your sensors and shit all intact I think your main concern would be swaping your crank signal I think you need to swap your oil pump dont quote me on it but I think thats the hardest part of converting obd1-obd2

well im converting my jdm h22 to obd2 compliant. im just wondering since the jdm h22 is 10.6:1 and the usdm h22 is 10.0:1 while using a usdm 97-01 ecu would affect how the engine runs since the my stock bb6 ecu is mapped for the usdm h22a4?

[jhondayaaj]

I put itr pistons on usdm gsr's before with no problem's. you should be fine. Does you car have the crank sensor as stated above?? if it does, then you might look into that.

[GHOST 2.2]

joesue you have a pm. ima need your assistance on something.

im going to pick up my motor next week

[jhondayaaj]

joesue you have a pm. ima need your assistance on something.

im going to pick up my motor next week

nice.

[dwnhillCB791]

ok so now that it got cold, I tried my heater out and it doesn't work, I don't even get hot air coming from the engine bay. any ideas?

[slowguy7]

I have a problem guys seems to me that the oil can filter is leaking heavily,I put a new filter on and add oil and when i drove off and came back it still leaking like crazy.What you guys think is it a o-ring type seal around the base where you screw the oil can filter or is it something else?