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distributor makes some weird sputtering noise ..check engine light came on. pulled over to see what it was, the car died ..
distr. bearings goin bad. need to replace the distr. pull out the cap and see if there are any signs of reddish dust around the inside of the distr. or, just take off the distr. and spin the part that goes on to the camshaft and see how freely it spins. then let us know.
and timmy, LOL, I just found the code that you had. I'll find out later.
The beginning of a new era............................
165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......
pull out your egr and clean it
do an egr port clean
sea foam your car
and if it still pulling code 12, you might need to replace you egr.
as for your ABS
is it flashing code
7-1 ? Right front ABS solenoid
7-2 ? Left front ABS solenoid
7-4 ? Rear ABS solenoid
(how to know what your code flashes)
The first series of flashes corresponds to the first digit of the code (which Honda refers to as the "main code"). After a one second pause, the light will flash out the second digit of the code (which Honda refers to as the "sub code"). If more than one code is stored, a five second pause will be followed by a single flash of the light, followed by another five second pause before the next fault code is displayed.
thats exactly what I figured, thanks jed I prolly just knocked one of the sensors when I adjusted my coilovers
distr. bearings goin bad. need to replace the distr. pull out the cap and see if there are any signs of reddish dust around the inside of the distr. or, just take off the distr. and spin the part that goes on to the camshaft and see how freely it spins. then let us know.
and timmy, LOL, I just found the code that you had. I'll find out later.
theres a place called ProMax Motorsports in Alhambra. they charge like $110 i believe. Very nice place. Nice cars there too. Mostly Exotics, which are the owners. You'll see cars like an F430 spyder, 360 modena, sl55 AMG, bentley and whatnot there.
so i have JDM one-pieces and i can't seem to adjust them correctly. for the passenger side one, the top adjustment when i try to adjust it ..nothing happens..
was going to change my oil, but noticed a lot of dried up oil and a fresh little drop coming from the driver side of the oil pan, near the belts. Seems there's a gasket between the oil pan and the place where the belts are attached. Noticed some condensation of oil around my oil pan as well.
Going to post pics soon.
edit:
I probably lost half a quart about every 2 weeks(6 days of driving). Thought I was just on the gas pedal too much burning oil.
Wilson, hopefully you are just loosing some oil from your oil pan gasket. If you are loosing oil from inside your timming belt cover it could be serious.
Wilson, hopefully you are just loosing some oil from your oil pan gasket. If you are loosing oil from inside your timming belt cover it could be serious.
could be your oil pump leaking! post pics mr wilson..
the circled parts are the where the majority the oil is leaking. I poked around there and it seems spongey so I'm guessing there's a gasket. I think jesus said my cam seal was leaking a couple months ago, but very little.
I tightened the oil pan bolts as they felt like they were lightly torqued on. I found one that was very loose.
So I'm going to need a new oil pan gasket and w.e that leak may be.
its definately going one of the front seals wilson. possibly the crank seal. cam seal will leak on the top of the block by the intake manifold.
It would be in your best interest to have all the front seals replaced.
ie. cam seal, balance shaft seal, oil pump seal and crank seal.
As generally true as that is I had a leak in the same spot. When I got it all torn down the BS and crank areas were bone dry...... my cam seal was starting to rip through the center and was causein a semi-major leak, but I replaced them all since I was there anyway.
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