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    #16
    either your door latch switch, your seat belt control unit or your micro switch on the front of your seat belt or your anchor rail. my advice, if there isn't any rubber moldings on the seat belt rail that is damaged, I would take it to the nearest dealer and have them look at it. they may have you sign an RO for diag, but most likely it will be warranty. But just a note, some parts may not be warranty. this way I don't want to be blamed for any charges. with 5 years in the dealership wrenching on HONDA'S, I have never done a seat belt on those years under customer pay. only warranty.
    The beginning of a new era............................
    165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
    184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

    Comment


      #17
      Originally posted by 4CYLPOWER92
      Would it be covered under the dealer lifetime seatbelt warranty?
      I think that is for 92-93 manual seatbelts only.

      Comment


        #18
        i called them up and asked the service manage at honda when mine failed, he said maybe it was like a short somewhere and i might have to pay for them to look at it or diagnose it, and leave the car overnight, so instead of that i just replaced it myself

        maybe joe(jhonda) will chime in since he works at honda
        edit: joe beat me to it
        Members Ride

        Comment


          #19
          Originally posted by blackcb7
          i called them up and asked the service manage at honda when mine failed, he said maybe it was like a short somewhere and i might have to pay for them to look at it or diagnose it, and leave the car overnight, so instead of that i just replaced it myself

          maybe joe(jhonda) will chime in since he works at honda
          edit: joe beat me to it
          yes, the dealer will have you sign for diag. that is if it isn't warranty. but if it is warranty, then that diag time will rollover to warranty and you pay 0 dollars.
          The beginning of a new era............................
          165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
          184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

          Comment


            #20
            Then you might get stuck with the diag fee. Ouch.

            Well my seatbelt is all worn out. The plastic part at the base is ripped on driver side. On passenger side the belt doesn't retract by itself. The service manager at penske said it would not be covered

            My swap thread
            Main relay proplems?--DIY

            Comment


              #21
              Originally posted by 4CYLPOWER92
              Then you might get stuck with the diag fee. Ouch.

              Well my seatbelt is all worn out. The plastic part at the base is ripped on driver side. On passenger side the belt doesn't retract by itself. The service manager at penske said it would not be covered
              If you pay me some cash, I'll make it covered under warranty.
              The beginning of a new era............................
              165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
              184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

              Comment


                #22
                LOL its cool

                My swap thread
                Main relay proplems?--DIY

                Comment


                  #23
                  just kidding. I would like to help though, if you wanna set a date to come to my work place out in cathedral city, I may be of an assistant.
                  The beginning of a new era............................
                  165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
                  184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

                  Comment


                    #24
                    so much for following the suggested layout
                    I <3 G60.

                    0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                    Comment


                      #25
                      Originally posted by wed3k
                      so much for following the suggested layout
                      The beginning of a new era............................
                      165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
                      184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

                      Comment


                        #26
                        Originally posted by wed3k
                        so much for following the suggested layout
                        thats just how we do here in so cal. close group. chatter bugs but we help each other. hehe
                        well if i pull the seat belt back it stays but if i take the key out of the ignition the seat belt retracts normal. basicly it doesnt strap u in. only move forward.
                        well i guess its not a big deal cuz imma install thel 4 point harness soon
                        contact info

                        (562) 324-3639 chan mao

                        Comment


                          #27
                          then it is either your micro switch or the door latch. I work out in cathedral city. you willing to drive?? maybe I can help. before I go to penske. take advantage of it. let me know.
                          The beginning of a new era............................
                          165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
                          184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

                          Comment


                            #28
                            sall good about the format. as long as people stating their problems and other people solving it.

                            if goes to "what you ate for dinner" then thats when ill start editing it


                            we have plenty of threads on socal to post what you ate for dinner.



                            anyway.... i wanna do the ignition myself, but anyone here know how to diagnise the true area problem? or can someone check out my car? thanks

                            Comment


                              #29
                              Originally posted by GHOST 2.2
                              sall good about the format. as long as people stating their problems and other people solving it.

                              if goes to "what you ate for dinner" then thats when ill start editing it


                              we have plenty of threads on socal to post what you ate for dinner.



                              anyway.... i wanna do the ignition myself, but anyone here know how to diagnise the true area problem? or can someone check out my car? thanks
                              I would like to help, but I live a couple hours away. so, if the igniter is bad, your car will not start and will not have spark as stated by jesus. and like jesus said, when it does die on you, get out of your car and check for spark. But it will be difficult to do that, if you are at a stop light and by yourself. So my suggestion is to take your main relay out and inspect it, if it looks good, then the igniter may be the problem. but if the main relay does have bad soldering "joints"(not the ones you smoke) I would start with the main relay first. and if that doesn't fix it, then most likely it is your igniter. I am more positive that it is your igniter though. there is a way to check for dwell on the igniter, but if the igniter is working fine now, then there will be dwell. don't ask me what dwell is either because I do not know. just know how to diag it. hope that helps Jed.
                              The beginning of a new era............................
                              165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
                              184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

                              Comment


                                #30
                                Originally posted by jhondayaaj
                                I would like to help, but I live a couple hours away. so, if the igniter is bad, your car will not start and will not have spark as stated by jesus. and like jesus said, when it does die on you, get out of your car and check for spark. But it will be difficult to do that, if you are at a stop light and by yourself. So my suggestion is to take your main relay out and inspect it, if it looks good, then the igniter may be the problem. but if the main relay does have bad soldering "joints"(not the ones you smoke) I would start with the main relay first. and if that doesn't fix it, then most likely it is your igniter. I am more positive that it is your igniter though. there is a way to check for dwell on the igniter, but if the igniter is working fine now, then there will be dwell. don't ask me what dwell is either because I do not know. just know how to diag it. hope that helps Jed.

                                thanks joesue!

                                any information is helpful. now i just gotta start playing the elimination game on the car.

                                Comment

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