So.Cal Mechanics Thread

[bacal36]

I vote IACV as well. I'm pretty sure mine is going out. If I disconnect it, the idle does not drop a little as it is supposed to, it just stays the same. If I am running the A/C the idle constantly drops, to the point the car occasionally stalls.

Kane, I changed the IACV, and it cured my erratic idle issue. The old one was pretty bad. Covered in soot, and rust. Idle dipping is no longer an issue, but since I have the stiff ESP mounts my car still shakes like crazy with the ac on.

Thanks everyone for your input and help.

[4CYLPOWER92]

Kane, I changed the IACV, and it cured my erratic idle issue. The old one was pretty bad. Covered in soot, and rust. Idle dipping is no longer an issue, but since I have the stiff ESP mounts my car still shakes like crazy with the ac on.

Thanks everyone for your input and help.

Good to know Paul! I've been wondering about this for awhile. I guess I should shell out the $200 or whatever it costs cause my idle be dippin low low low low low apple bottom low

Yeah those stiff mounts suck. I had just a solid front mount on and I could not stand that vibration at idle. Stock mounts are so much better (quiet luxurious comfy feel) and are fine for the little bit of H22 powah there is.

[timmy0tool]

^ i agree kane. after driving the coupe all weekend, my body is sore from the vibrations and stiffness . i wanna see if i can remove the inserts from the torque mount and see if the change is better.

paul can you just clean the IAVC. my idle drops at times too but not often.

[R33cb7]

H22A Swap Help

Guys,

As some of you may know, some of the SOCAL guys hepled me install an H22A with Auto LSD into my CB. They did a great job helping me put it in, but now it's time to get it running. Here are some problems that I am running across:

1. Radiator fan is not comming on.
2. CEL is on
3. Idle is at about 2300 RPM's


Here's what I've got hooked up and what I can't figure out:


HOOKED UP:

1. VTEC Solenoid- Connected to Pin A4 on ECU.
2. Knock Sensor- Pin D3

CAN'T FIGURE OUT:



1. VTEC Pressure Switch: Supposed to go to Pin D6 on ECU, however there are 2 wires on that plug. Is one a ground?
2. Secondary Intake Solenoid: Supposed to connect black/yellow to swiched ignition, the other wire to Pin A10. WHERE THE FUCK IS THIS THING?
3. FPR Solenoid: WTF? Do I even have this? My Accord is an SE.

ITEMS THAT CAME OFF MY F22A6:

1. EGR Valve
2. Upper Radiator Hose Neck
3. Alternator
4. Fuel Rail/Pressure Regulator (AEM)


HEEEEEEEEELLLLLLLLLLLLPPPPPPPPPP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[jhondayaaj]

most likely your fan switch is bad. replace that. as for the fpr solenoid, you don't need that. I'll check out the rest later when I have more time.

[4CYLPOWER92]

Here's what I've got hooked up and what I can't figure out:


HOOKED UP:

1. VTEC Solenoid- Connected to Pin A4 on ECU.
2. Knock Sensor- Pin D3

CAN'T FIGURE OUT:



1. VTEC Pressure Switch: Supposed to go to Pin D6 on ECU, however there are 2 wires on that plug. Is one a ground?
2. Secondary Intake Solenoid: Supposed to connect black/yellow to swiched ignition, the other wire to Pin A10. WHERE THE FUCK IS THIS THING?
3. FPR Solenoid: WTF? Do I even have this? My Accord is an SE.

ITEMS THAT CAME OFF MY F22A6:

1. EGR Valve
2. Upper Radiator Hose Neck
3. Alternator
4. Fuel Rail/Pressure Regulator (AEM)

Hey Gerald, I can answer some of this:
1. You are correct, the black wire is the ground.
2. Secondary intake, AKA IAB, you already have this wired to your ecu because your car is an SE. Only us DX and LX people have to wire this up. All you should have to do is connect the connector on your harness to the one on the black box. If your H22 didn't come with the box and the vacuum hoses then swap that stuff over from your F22A6.
3. Your engine didn't come with this from the pictures I saw. You don't need it anyways.

Make sure you have your EGR and all vacuum hoses hooked up right.

[jhondayaaj]

pull the code on your cel and give it to us.
on your vtec press switch, one is ground.
as for your iab's, I used the power wire at the distr. I believe it's the black/yellow wire at the distr.
make sure you don't have the egr and the tps connectors switched around.
let us know the outcome.

[4CYLPOWER92]

as for your iab's, I used the power wire at the distr. I believe it's the black/yellow wire at the distr.

He doesn't need to worry about this does he? I thought EX's and SE's already have this wired up right? Or am I thinking about something else...

[jhondayaaj]

oh. I didn't know he had an SE. LOL.

[R33cb7]

***Update***

I got the car to idle normally (thanks blackcb7) The radiator fan kicks on now, but I still have a CEL.

Codes:

7 and 22

Any thoughts?

[jhondayaaj]

***Update***

I got the car to idle normally (thanks blackcb7) The radiator fan kicks on now, but I still have a CEL.

Codes:

7 and 22

Any thoughts?

your car is auto right? if it is then, you got the 4ws ecu throwing the code for 4ws. 7 is tps, hopefully you didn't get a bad ecu throwing the code7. I've seen it happened.

[cb9tuner]

cel 22 is the vtec presure switch its the one I think you said you still havent wired

[blackcb7]

***Update***

I got the car to idle normally (thanks blackcb7) The radiator fan kicks on now, but I still have a CEL.

Codes:

7 and 22

Any thoughts?

No problem

Code 7

Was the tps replaced or broken? If it was replaced you will have to adjust it to a certain voltage, i believe there is a diy on here for that.

Code 22
For the vtec pressure switch, if you have already wired it and its in the correct pin, try switching the the two leads for it, I have dealt with the problem a lot of time. To check the switch itself, use a volt meter to check for continuity, if you have it then the switch is good and the problem lies in the wiring or computer, most likely the wiring.

[nghtrydr23]

No problem

Code 7

Was the tps replaced or broken? If it was replaced you will have to adjust it to a certain voltage, i believe there is a diy on here for that.

Code 22
For the vtec pressure switch, if you have already wired it and its in the correct pin, try switching the the two leads for it, I have dealt with the problem a lot of time. To check the switch itself, use a volt meter to check for continuity, if you have it then the switch is good and the problem lies in the wiring or computer, most likely the wiring.

OMG...OMG... its JESUS!!!

[blackcb7]

OMG...OMG... its JESUS!!!

Congrats on the fit