So.Cal Mechanics Thread

[BatmannamtaB]

Nevermind.

[bmxicansd]

I have a issue with my beater.. I think its the hubs, but can someone chime in and give their opinion..

Scenario.
I have a 94 accord, changed the wheel bearing, calipers, brake hardware, and the machine shop checked my hubs and they seemed good.. For the longest time if i drive down a bumpy road i will hear a clanking clanking noise, and i always thought it was my brake hardware.. i went to a oem style to a direct oem replacement and it still makes the same dang noise.. the tie rods, lower ball joint are good.. i can kick my tire and can somewhat replicate the noise.. So im thinking maybe its my hubs or something.. the wheel bearings are new, everything is tight, lastly there is no play in the wheel..

[cb9tuner]

does it sound like the dust sheild is hitting the rotor? might just be that if its the clank clank type of noise

[bmxicansd]

does it sound like the dust sheild is hitting the rotor? might just be that if its the clank clank type of noise

I will double check that.. It honestly sounds like something is loose.

thanks Jason..

[Shinobi]

hey guys, i think something is wrong with the suspension. everytime i drive and i hit a bump or whatever it makes a squeak noise. could it be the bushings?

[cb9tuner]

hey guys, i think something is wrong with the suspension. everytime i drive and i hit a bump or whatever it makes a squeak noise. could it be the bushings?

maybe ? it might be the shock stopper foam thing too well on my cb9 it makes a squeak while over bumps not too loud but enough where I can here it due to the fact that the stopper is overly compressed cause Im lowered

I love your bouncing boobies

[wed3k]

check this out...

car stutters under light load/cruising/idle and only does it when it gets hot.

i narrowed it down to the fuel injector resistor box and everythime it would get hot...it would create more resistance within the box. heat = resistance (electronics 101)

whenever the vehicle was warm, id pull the injector box plug and test the resistance. it went over 8ohms and when the vehicle cooled down it went back to a steady 6 ohms.

changed the resistance box and ta-da! problem is fixed. i know its getting hot so this may help some of you folks.

[optimusprime]

Just to let you CB7 guys I have a Matco Scanner for sale. Pro Scan plus. this is also OBO so let me know.
http://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/tls/746435132.html

[BatmannamtaB]

Can anyone help me with my WINDOW PROBLEMS, DRIVE AND PASSENGER.

Problem with the DRIVER SIDE WINDOW:

It only comes up by pulling it after the switch has been flipped, and it only comes down by being pushed down. In the process it jams and makes loud noises and gets stuck, that's when I really have to pull it or push it.

Problem with PASSENGER SIDE WINDOW:

It goes down fine without jamming but it starts to fall off the rail. Can this be fixed simply by purchasing a new window and have it installed?

[4CYLPOWER92]

Can anyone help me with my WINDOW PROBLEMS, DRIVE AND PASSENGER.

Problem with the DRIVER SIDE WINDOW:

It only comes up by pulling it after the switch has been flipped, and it only comes down by being pushed down. In the process it jams and makes loud noises and gets stuck, that's when I really have to pull it or push it.

Problem with PASSENGER SIDE WINDOW:

It goes down fine without jamming but it starts to fall off the rail. Can this be fixed simply by purchasing a new window and have it installed?

As for your driver side window, your regulator is most likely damaged/bent. That could be the case with the passenger side too, but you should try adjusting the window first and see if that solves it. Our window tracks need some type of lubrication occasionally, or they can get stuck. If you force the window up or down by hand, you will most likely damage the regulator. I've been there.

Do you have a coupe? If so make sure your windows still have the little round button hook thingy in the upper corner.

[BatmannamtaB]

As for your driver side window, your regulator is most likely damaged/bent. That could be the case with the passenger side too, but you should try adjusting the window first and see if that solves it. Our window tracks need some type of lubrication occasionally, or they can get stuck. If you force the window up or down by hand, you will most likely damage the regulator. I've been there.

Do you have a coupe? If so make sure your windows still have the little round button hook thingy in the upper corner.

I've been forcing it up and down like that for months now.

The passenger side window I put back on the rails and screw it on the bottom but as soon as I make it go up it comes off the rails again.

No I have a 4dr.

[cb9tuner]

I've been forcing it up and down like that for months now.

The passenger side window I put back on the rails and screw it on the bottom but as soon as I make it go up it comes off the rails again.

No I have a 4dr.

mine does that on my drivers window I would have to drop the window 3/4 the way down or the window will fall off the track, but I found that the window seal itself is causing it cause it also pops out at the top =bad seal repalce the seal

[BatmannamtaB]

mine does that on my drivers window I would have to drop the window 3/4 the way down or the window will fall off the track, but I found that the window seal itself is causing it cause it also pops out at the top =bad seal repalce the seal

how much was the seal? did you do it yourself?

[cb9tuner]

how much was the seal? did you do it yourself?

I havent replaced it yet but on tas the seal like 60 bucks oem

heres the link

http://www.tasauto.com/Product/Brows...z=10&h=176&p=1

[timmy0tool]

I have a issue with my beater.. I think its the hubs, but can someone chime in and give their opinion..

Scenario.
I have a 94 accord, changed the wheel bearing, calipers, brake hardware, and the machine shop checked my hubs and they seemed good.. For the longest time if i drive down a bumpy road i will hear a clanking clanking noise, and i always thought it was my brake hardware.. i went to a oem style to a direct oem replacement and it still makes the same dang noise.. the tie rods, lower ball joint are good.. i can kick my tire and can somewhat replicate the noise.. So im thinking maybe its my hubs or something.. the wheel bearings are new, everything is tight, lastly there is no play in the wheel..

could be your dust shield or some of your bushings are going out. but that would mean there is some play in your suspension. how does your axles look?