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    my smog thread

    this will be my smog thread as i progress into this more. get comfortable kids...

    as we all know there has been a suspension of california referee and CAP services:
    Per the Governor's Executive Order issued on July 31, 2008 concerning the state budget, Referee and Consumer Assistance Program (CAP) Repair Assistance, and Vehicle Retirement services have been suspended until further notice. We apologize for any inconvenience. Consumers may call the Department of Consumer Affairs, Consumer Information Center at (800) 952-5210. Also, please check our web site periodically to confirm when both Referee and CAP services will resume.
    http://www.bar.ca.gov/
    http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=111817

    here is my setup to get familiar:
    -JDM H22A
    -JDM p13
    -stock accord intake
    -stock accord EGR
    -stock JDM header
    -magnaflow direct replacement catalytic converter
    -K&N drop in filter
    -ALL vac lines installed including air boost valve, etc (minus the intake solenoid #8 vac line)
    -timing at +15deg BTDC (stock setting)
    -never cleaned my EGR
    -never cleaned my EGR ports
    -91 octane gas
    -regular 10W-30 oil (if that matters)

    so with that i decided to take a chance and take my car to my local test-only station. mind you my car is slammed and i was skeptical to take it there b/c their dyno was off the ground and i needed to drive up a ramp. i removed my front lip prior to arriving. the tech assured me that it would be fine, and it was. it cleared just barely while my front mudguards were completely flattened. oh well!

    as he popped the hood i would think that he would say something about the motor but he didn't. maybe it was b/c i have a shaved v/c. he said he's been in the smog business for awhile and he predicted that my motor will fail the NO test right off the bat. i told him i just got the cat and to keep it hot for the test so he would rev the motor at 3000rpms for a minute before beginning the test.

    he said that there was a law that passed in december 1, 2007 that all cars before 1996 are required to have an low pressure fuel evaporative test (LPFET) so i needed to do it. all he did was pinch a vac line in the engine bay somewhere (looked like the charcoal canister) and replace my gas cap to an adapter for a machine. i passed this, but added $15 to the bill.

    what i noticed was funny was that he placed a traffic cone 1ft away from my muffler's tip after in-tailpipe sensor was in place. i was thinking this could bias my readings but i didn't say anything. after all he's been in the smog business for awhile. then he started the test. the test had to restart twice due to being unstable (maybe due to my car's chassis sitting on the dyno). on the third time here are my results:

    meas = amount measured
    ave = average for passing cars
    max = maximum allowable

    15mph test:
    1807 RPM
    %CO2 meas 13.68
    %O2 meas 0.92
    HC (PPM) max:116 ave:31 meas:32
    CO(%) max:0.74 ave:0.10 meas:0.03
    NO(PPM) max:791 ave:237 meas:946

    25mph test:
    2199 RPM
    %CO2 meas 13.60
    %O2 meas 1.07
    HC (PPM) max:91 ave:20 meas:34
    CO(%) max:0.62ave:0.09 meas:0.03
    NO(PPM) max:730 ave:199 meas:826

    results:
    FAIL NO(PPM) test


    after looking at the numbers and wasting $50 for this test (free retests are only for 1996 up cars ), i can see that all i might have to do is clean the EGR, EGR ports, retard the timing a bit and i'm all set. i just wanted to share this experience for future insight. i feel i am pretty close to passing a JDM motor with a JDM ECU !

    stay tuned for more...
    1cor10:31
    - 92 LX coupe
    - 96 EX wagon (sold)

    #2
    Tim,

    Were the measurements taken for the F series motor or the H series motor? I am wondering if there is any difference at all for both. I am assuming that when I went to the state ref he took measurements for the prelude motor.

    My setup:
    -JDM H22A
    -JDM p13
    -AEM accord intake
    -stock accord EGR
    -stock JDM header
    -OEM 196K catalytic converter
    -timing at +15deg BTDC (stock setting)
    -Jesus cleaned my EGR
    -Jesus cleaned my EGR ports
    -91 octane gas
    -Mobil1 Synthetic 10W-30 oil



    These are my results.

    -Future plans to install stock accord intake, perhaps a new cat., retard timing, and test at a smog station.

    I'm with you on this one bro. Lets work this out so we can pass smog! Im not due for another year, but i want to make sure I get what I need so I can pass!
    Last edited by bacal36; 08-14-2008, 11:57 AM.

    Sold, but not forgotten.

    Comment


      #3
      BAR testing is more comprehensive as i'm sure you are aware of now paul. this was taken with my h-series motor but i'm sure the smog guy just put the stock accord specs as a baseline to work with. he never questioned my motor setup. it seems your numbers are very high compared to mine, but again you were running the OEM cat.

      i believe with the new BAR suspension in effect there is no need to BAR the car at this time. that's why i just went to a smog station directly, and that's maybe why he didn't question my motor. that or he didn't even know .
      1cor10:31
      - 92 LX coupe
      - 96 EX wagon (sold)

      Comment


        #4
        Timmy,

        Sorry to hear it failed.. Trust me the 15mph test ads a few grays to my head.. Found this hope it helps you out.. Let me know if you need any help mang..



        http://hubpages.com/hub/Understanding-Your-Smog-Report-

        Understanding Your Smog Report

        Understanding your car's smog report can be a little confusing even for the do-it yourself kind of guy or gal; however, here a few simple guidelines to help you with this, should you choose to do the repairs yourself.

        I will also list some basic things to check for as it relates to your smog report. Due to the nature of how each vehicles make and model is made, some of this information may or may not apply to your particular case. Also, this is assuming you have a decent understanding of your car's system.

        To begin with you have 5 readings to look at:

        * HC-Hydrocarbons-Read in PPM(parts per million)
        * CO-Carbon Monoxide-Read as a percentage
        * 02-Oxygen-Read as a percentage
        * CO2-Carbon Dioxide-Read as a percentage
        * NO-Nitrogen Oxide or NOX-Read in PPM(parts per million)

        Assuming you took your car straight to the test only station only to discover your car has failed, here some things to check for as it relates to your smog report.

        In my experience high HC's can be an indication of bad spark plug wires, spark plugs, slow O2 sensor, or dirty air filter. A high reading is probably a good indication of unburned fuel. This will also affect your NOx readings as well.

        High CO readings can also be caused by a faulty ignition system, dirty air filter, throttle body full of carbon and is a result of raw fuel passing through your cars system. A leaky fuel injector or cold start valve can also be the cause.

        A high O2 reading can be the result of your car running lean due to the air/fuel mixture not mixing up properly.

        Last and certainly not the least, is your NO or NOx reading. A high reading here usually has its roots with your cars EGR(Exhaust Gas Recirculation) system and catalytic converter. Things to check for in your EGR system; a sticking valve, leaking EGR valve, base gasket air leak, and carbon build in the passageway.
        Things To Check Before Your Smog Test

        For all you shade tree mechanics out there, here a few things to check for prior to that dreaded smog test. Now, assuming your car is in decent shape and you feel your car has a good chance of passing the smog test, here's what I recommend:

        1. If your wallet permits, have pre-test done to give you an idea of your cars condition.

        2. If you choose to skip the pre-test, then I highly recommend a compression test on your vehicle's cylinders.

        3. With all the spark plugs out, examine your plugs and compare them to the images found on most car manuals, like Chiltons or Haynes publication. Here you'll get a decent idea on whether your car is running rich or leaking oil.

        4. Check your spark plug wires, and valve gasket for any leaks. If your vehicle's manual recommends a valve adjustment, do it. Also, don't forget to examine your distributor cap and rotor or DIS system.

        5. Check your air filter, EGR system, and throttle body for any carbon build up.

        6. Check your cars exhaust system, including your catalyitic converter and play close attention for any defects. If you have a pyrometer or infrared gun available, check the temperature of the pipe entering the cat and compare with the temperature of outlet pipe.

        7. Check your charcoal canister for any leaks or cracks.

        8. Check all vacuum hoses and do the wiggle test on your cars electrical system.

        So there you have it. I'm sure there are other things to check for, but those are some of the basics. Of course, be sure to replace all defective parts with new ones, or you can head to your local wrecking yard if your on a budget.

        One thing I highly recommend is saving up for your smog test in advance, before that letter from DMV sneaks up on you. This way you avoid using that credit card.
        Header Whorage and Official Part out sale.

        Official Garage Sale Thread

        http://jdmconcepts.com/ Head porting specialist..

        Comment


          #5
          thanks craig for that info. i'll be cleaning my EGR soon but i really want to avoid cleaning the ports. it shouldn't be too bad with a 50,000mile motor. the EGR itself on the other hand was from the accord motor which is prolly toast or needs a good cleaning!
          1cor10:31
          - 92 LX coupe
          - 96 EX wagon (sold)

          Comment


            #6
            Whoa. No BAR exams.

            Damnit, I was just about to BAR the CRX too.


            That puts us in a weird spot, tho. If you got pulled over without a BAR sticker, but with a swapped and smog-passing engine, I wonder what the police would do.

            Comment


              #7
              Im so glad we dont have Emo tests like that here. All we have are state inspections.

              Ive always been intrigued and kinda confused by all these tests and the differences between them. I look forward to more in this thread.


              KeepinItClean | EnviousFilms | NoBigDeal | YET2BSCENE | .· ` ' / ·. | click here.
              Originally posted by Jarrett
              Is there a goal you're trying to accomplish besides looking dope as hell?

              Comment


                #8
                Originally posted by timmy0tool View Post
                so with that i decided to take a chance and take my car to my local test-only station. mind you my car is slammed and i was skeptical to take it there b/c their dyno was off the ground and i needed to drive up a ramp. i removed my front lip prior to arriving. the tech assured me that it would be fine, and it was. it cleared just barely while my front mudguards were completely flattened. oh well!
                I went to a place in Alhambra today that had a level in ground dyno. The smog tech was really cool and was telling me stories about his racing days with his Supra. Here's the place i went to.

                WEST VALLEY AUTO SMOG TEST
                1536 W. Valley Blvd.
                Alhambra, CA 91803
                PH626) 576-8463

                They are a test only center though.

                ::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::For Sale Thread::::::::::::::::::::::::::::::


                :::::::::::::::::: S2K::::::::::::::::: ::::::::::::::::: CB7:::::::::::::::: Flickr

                Comment


                  #9
                  Hey Timmy, Not bad at all. I'm a bit surprised the NO didn't clean up on the 25mph though........That has me thinking...

                  You didn't take it to the place in San Diego did you? He'll do whatever he can to help it pass. Long way for you to drive though I know.

                  Well those are great HC numbers. I would say your CAT is functioning well. Definately you should retard the timming a degree or two, and clean out that EGR valve. Test it for function to, apply vacuum to it to see that it opens fully. Also test the solenoid (or what ever it's called) in the black box that sends the vacuum to the EGR. The tests are simple if you still have your helms manuals.

                  Good luck!

                  My swap thread
                  Main relay proplems?--DIY

                  Comment


                    #10
                    your car is running a little lean. put some colder plugs in it, do a valve adj. and retard the timing 1 degree. you should pass next time.
                    The beginning of a new era............................
                    165 hp 149 ft. lb. torque sohc non vtec. then....
                    184 whp and 149 ft. lb. torque f20b stock now......

                    Comment


                      #11
                      thanks guys!

                      johnny a test-only center is the only center we can take our cars to. in-ground dynos are way better.

                      kane, i can't drive too far since my tags are already expired (july) so driving down to national city is outta the question. thanks though! i still have my helms so i'll do some cleaning/checking when i have the time.

                      joesue, it's hard to adjust timing on my fidanza flywheel since i only see one notch so really all i know is that it's neither advanced or retarded some since it's right on the marker. what spark plugs do you recommend?
                      1cor10:31
                      - 92 LX coupe
                      - 96 EX wagon (sold)

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by timmy0tool View Post
                        thanks guys!

                        johnny a test-only center is the only center we can take our cars to. in-ground dynos are way better.

                        kane, i can't drive too far since my tags are already expired (july) so driving down to national city is outta the question. thanks though! i still have my helms so i'll do some cleaning/checking when i have the time.
                        You should have gone to the DMV and paid the registration fee and asked for an extension. They'll give you a sticker to put on the back window, so cops won't harass you for driving with expired tags while you try and get it smogged.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          is it too late? i paid the reg fee already but regarding the extension, forgot about that. thanks long!
                          1cor10:31
                          - 92 LX coupe
                          - 96 EX wagon (sold)

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by timmy0tool View Post
                            is it too late? i paid the reg fee already but regarding the extension, forgot about that. thanks long!


                            Naw just go in and tell them you need a temporary racing number aka operating permit.. Believe they will give you 1-2 months.
                            Header Whorage and Official Part out sale.

                            Official Garage Sale Thread

                            http://jdmconcepts.com/ Head porting specialist..

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I took my car to that place 4CYLPOWER92 was talkin about. cant remenber if he had a in ground thingy or not but he got my car to pass...
                              Freedom Is Not Free
                              U.S Army 02/08 Medically Discharged

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