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    #31
    Originally posted by turbo90accord View Post
    Why such tiny slicks? i would have suggested going with 24.5" slicks that 2.5" difference will make a huge difference especially with trap speed.
    Your trap speed will actually go down with bigger slicks. Yes the 2.5" would make a difference in your 60fts but with your power level a 22" is fine. If you start making over 300hp I would suggest the 24.5".

    Originally posted by mozzandherb View Post
    Can you really feel the rear starting to squat? I mean will it be obvious at what point to disengage the clutch and wait to take off?
    Yes you really can feel the rear end squat. Preloading is a great thing to learn and paractice doing, it will save premature failure of your axles and tranny. It can also bring your sixty foot times down aswell. I would suggest setting up a 2-step if you can, makes the preloading much easier to learn and execute. I have an open diff tranny, stock axles, and 24.5" slicks and I run consistant 1.7s but thats still not that great. Preloading is your key!!

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      #32
      Do you preload at the starting line, or before the start line. I dont quite understand, because if I pull the ebrake and disengage the clutch wont I be doing a burnout at the start line? I'm going to do some research...thanks

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        #33
        At the starting line.

        Read carefully. I never said FULLY disengage. I said enough to where your rear end dips. Hold the clutch there. If you start moving forward, press the clutch back in.

        It's all about your clutch foot work. You're pretty much feathering the clutch.

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          #34
          Watch this video @ :35 seconds
          http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3EPuc9nI8A

          His rear end squats and he's still kinda rolling forward because he's slightly desengaging the clutch.

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            #35
            Originally posted by d112crzy View Post
            Watch this video @ :35 seconds
            http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R3EPuc9nI8A

            His rear end squats and he's still kinda rolling forward because he's slightly desengaging the clutch.
            sick

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              #36
              So I messaged my friend who is a semi pro drag racer and asked him about preloading and this was his response:


              "front wheel drive cars need the rear suspension to be stiff and sometimes slightly higher than the front to keep weight on the front wheels when launching. When you launch the car, the momentum tries to lift the front end off the ground and transfer to the back, on rear wheel drive cars thats what we try to force the cars to do... but you need to stop that from happening. Thats why some guys use wheely bars on front wheel drive cars to push the front end down. If you have adjustable suspension, i would crank the back end up, and set the valving to the highest setting so they dont compress.

              Preloading might also be a term guys with turbos are using .. to build boost before you launch.. basically the only way i could see that being possible is to hold the brakes and rev the engine up to boost while slipping the clutch out to load the engine mounts.. youd have to do some fancy foot work. ive never really heard the import guys talking about preload, but in the real drag racing world with chassis cars and stuff like i run, preload is all about suspension tuning. basically we try to eliminate things that move from moving.. or putting them into the position that they will be in once they have moved. That takes flex out of the chassis, if your chassis or suspension twists, that energy isnt being put to the ground. but some cars, like those long dragsters, use twist as a way to control traction, without the flex they would just spin the tires. Its complicated shit lol but it makes a huge difference when your car is working right. "

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                #37
                yea man, ive even heard of civic hatches that dont run a strut, just a rod that replaces the entire suspension for the rear. less wieght too
                I <3 G60.

                0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

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                  #38
                  Yeah, wheelie bars help a bunch.

                  But if you're a cheap mofo, you can use some seat belts from the jy to make suspension limiters. Use them on the front.

                  ANd to answer your PM, there is no set RPM. Every car/suspension like something different so it's something you'll just have to play with.

                  If it's something that is out of your control, or just too much of a hassle, get an msd 2 step box.

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by d112crzy View Post
                    Yeah, wheelie bars help a bunch.

                    But if you're a cheap mofo, you can use some seat belts from the jy to make suspension limiters. Use them on the front.

                    ANd to answer your PM, there is no set RPM. Every car/suspension like something different so it's something you'll just have to play with.

                    If it's something that is out of your control, or just too much of a hassle, get an msd 2 step box.
                    I think ectune provides an option for a programmed launch control

                    SOLD!!
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                      #40
                      IT does, and it also does anti-lag. But I wouldn't recommend that on a stock motor with such a small exhaust.

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                        #41
                        Originally posted by d112crzy View Post
                        IT does, and it also does anti-lag. But I wouldn't recommend that on a stock motor with such a small exhaust.
                        Sorry for the ignorance, but what is the difference between that and the msd two step box?

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                          #42
                          Crome/ectune's two-step consists of a rpm selectable soft-cut that kills spark, and re-engages it.


                          Ectune's anti-lag allows to retard timing to very low levels thus allowing unburnt fuel to get past the cylinders and raise the egt's while (two-stepping) allowing to build boost while standingstill


                          Stock motors = shouldn't be anti-lagged for long periods of time or at all unless ur mind-set is on a rebuild as the egt's can get very high

                          Especially using a log manifold..and or/small exhaust


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                            #43
                            THe 2 step is just a simple 2 step. eCtune has that option as well. Except the MSD unit is done via ignition cut, which is a lot safer. You'll also be able to control which rpm you want it at with some provided pills.


                            BTW, crome does fuel cut, not ignition cut.

                            CrzyTuning now offering port services

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by d112crzy View Post
                              THe 2 step is just a simple 2 step. eCtune has that option as well. Except the MSD unit is done via ignition cut, which is a lot safer. You'll also be able to control which rpm you want it at with some provided pills.


                              BTW, crome does fuel cut, not ignition cut.
                              Beat me 2 my edit..lol

                              After I read that I was like oops..takes forever to update on this sidekick so meh..not bothering to change it.


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                                #45
                                the msd does seem like the simpler solution, correct me if I'm wrong, but I think you have to have some other msd upgrades in order to run it.

                                SOLD!!
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                                375whp 298 ft/lbs at 15psi

                                MEMBERS RIDE THREAD<<<CLICK FOR VIDS AND COOL PICS

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