H311RA151N : 1998 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

[H311RA151N]

Hope you get better man, and yeah i always replace rubber hoses on older vehicles just as a preventive measure as well as draining all the old brake fluid out and replacing with new fluid.

Thanks man.

Me too, or I try to when I can anyways. I'm going to install some Dorman speed bleeders that I have on these back two calipers when they come in.

I'm going to drain out all the old brake fluid just as you said you like to do. I'm still debating on what kind of fluid I want to put in. I haven't looked much but I want to use some good stuff.

[Crankshaft]

Thanks man.

Me too, or I try to when I can anyways. I'm going to install some Dorman speed bleeders that I have on these back two calipers when they come in.

I'm going to drain out all the old brake fluid just as you said you like to do. I'm still debating on what kind of fluid I want to put in. I haven't looked much but I want to use some good stuff.

DOT 4 should be fine, to get all the fluid out i just disconnect the hoses and uncap the reservoir to let gravity drain all the fluid out, just make sure you put containers at each end or you will have a mess on your hands.

[H311RA151N]

DOT 4 should be fine, to get all the fluid out i just disconnect the hoses and uncap the reservoir to let gravity drain all the fluid out, just make sure you put containers at each end or you will have a mess on your hands.

That's exactly what I planned to do. I also like to put a little of the new stuff in the the reservoir and let that drain out as well. Just to "flush" out as much of the old stuff as I can.

I found some Pentosin Super Dot 4 I'm more than likely going to get. It's supposed to be some really good stuff. $10 a liter. Not horrible in comparison to others.

[Crankshaft]

I have gone the extra length of removing the BMC and washing all around the reservoir to get the nasty gunk out. It might be better i know its what is required in some of the Euro cars, i stick to regular parts store DOT4 or whatever Walmart
carries.

[H311RA151N]

I'll check and see how hard the master cylinder is to remove. I've got all the time in the world so I might as well.

[Crankshaft]

I'll check and see how hard the master cylinder is to remove. I've got all the time in the world so I might as well.

I just ordered some pads and rear springs for my corolla, long time Wagner customer i decided to give Powerstop a try which is actually my firstime trying anything else.

[H311RA151N]

I had an issue with RockAuto in regard to parts stock availability. No big deal.

I went ahead and bought the parts needed to rebuild the caliper including a new piston.

I also bought a liter and a half of Pentosin Super DOT 4 brake fluid.


The big news today is I have a 14b turbocharger on the way!

Only paid $73 shipped from an individual. Finally got one. Finally I got the main ingredient in making some power.

[H311RA151N]

USPS misplaced the gasket set originally. But it turned up on my doorstep today.

Here are all the gaskets that I will replace when the reworked 14b goes in.



Below is the only picture I have of the 14b I just purchased. It's rough but it's all there. Which is what counts.

I'm sending it to Turbo Labs of America. But I'm still contemplating what hybrid route I want to go. I'm thinking a 16g with a 10.5 hotside and a billet wheel. I want something I can grow into. A 16g will get me into the mid 11's pretty easily.


It will be getting a new wastegate before going on. I'm going to make sure everything is tip top and pristine before going in.

[H311RA151N]

I received the 14b today and everything checks out. Quite a bit of play but it's acceptable.

[H311RA151N]

Turns out the options from Turbo Lab are a little more that I'm after. I'm not into a 20G.

So, after some reading I'm going to keep it a 14B and rebuild it myself. I'm going to modify the current oil and coolant lines. Not to cheap out, but because all aftermarket oil line kits leak as owners report. On one of the return fittings as I recall. So, by modifying (bending a little) my current factory lines I won't leak a drop of oil. Which it doesn't now. I kinda want to keep it that way.

I'm going to dip the turbo, once disassembled, into some chem dip I just bought for the throttlebody then get to work rebuilding it.

An OEM rebuild kit is $125.

The wastegate on this 14b looks horrible. So that will be replaced as well. With an aftermarket Kinugwa wastegate actuator set at 18psi. I'm going to leave it at 18psi. Which will net a very noticeable power gain.

I know I have the mapping for the cfm of a 14b @ 18psi. But I don't think I have the fuel for it right now. I will be installing the Walbro 190, the STM pump rewiring kit and the FueLab 818 system all of which I currently have. That definitely will supply enough fuel. I may do this before I get the 14b rebuilt and in. Pretty sure of it in fact.

The chem dip I got. Not that most of us haven't seen it before.

[H311RA151N]

When replacing the negative battery cable I looked at the positive cable and followed it directly to the starter which is directly beneath the intake manifold. I even jacked the car up and can't even hardly see the starter! So, the positive battery terminal being the bad one I decided I had to just replace the terminal. So I found a terminal set on Amazon that's the clamp style that I want and also found a set of rubber covers. I'm leaving the negative side alone of course as it's already new as I just replaced it and it even has a rubber cover. So I'm only using the positive side stuff. Surprisingly, the rubber covers are more expensive than the terminals! lol Got both for $13.00 shipped. So they are on the way.

Also the brake caliper stuff is on the way, still. Should be here by Wednesday.

[H311RA151N]

So this is what I have to do. Hoping that the turbine shaft and bearing housing are good. Probably are but I can't help but wonder. Really wanting to crack it open.

[H311RA151N]

Order from Rock Auto arrived today. As well as the terminals and boots from Amazon.

[H311RA151N]

Tomorrow I will be pulling the troubled passenger side rear caliper off and rebuilding it.

I have done some reading on various DSM forums and gathered some good info.

The inside pad directly against the piston which I removed and replaced was worn twice as much as the outside pad. The driver side wasn't like this.

What I've read is this is due to the piston keeping constant pressure on the pad causing it to drag. This could be due to coagulated brake fluid within the caliper.

What I've read is people generally clean the caliper out with the piston removed to get all the crap out. That is a very common issue with calipers evidently and it's apparently very common on these.

So that's good news. I'm going to drain down the brake system and flush it with a bit of the new DOT 4 brake fluid then bleed the air out of it. Probably going to each corner and bleeding it just to be sure. This car is too fast to end up not stopping somewhere. That could be bad news.

I haven't spared anything with this brake system. And it needed a freshen up. It will be nice for it to finally pay off. I can't wait to see how well this thing stops.

Edit...


I forgot, I'm also going to install the new positive side battery terminal and red boot tomorrow. This comes much needed. Something else the previous owner(s) really could have done better with. With the new battery and everything in this area being completed I'm very pleased to have it behind me.

[Crankshaft]

Tomorrow I will be pulling the troubled passenger side rear caliper off and rebuilding it.

I have done some reading on various DSM forums and gathered some good info.

The inside pad directly against the piston which I removed and replaced was worn twice as much as the outside pad. The driver side wasn't like this.

What I've read is this is due to the piston keeping constant pressure on the pad causing it to drag. This could be due to coagulated brake fluid within the caliper.

What I've read is people generally clean the caliper out with the piston removed to get all the crap out. That is a very common issue with calipers evidently and it's apparently very common on these.

So that's good news. I'm going to drain down the brake system and flush it with a bit of the new DOT 4 brake fluid then bleed the air out of it. Probably going to each corner and bleeding it just to be sure. This car is too fast to end up not stopping somewhere. That could be bad news.

I haven't spared anything with this brake system. And it needed a freshen up. It will be nice for it to finally pay off. I can't wait to see how well this thing stops.

Edit...


I forgot, I'm also going to install the new positive side battery terminal and red boot tomorrow. This comes much needed. Something else the previous owner(s) really could have done better with. With the new battery and everything in this area being completed I'm very pleased to have it behind me.

Check for pitting inside the caliper caliper and caliper cylinder as really old brake fluid once contaminated can start causing erosion on the insides.