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Saturday: I'm going to service the rear end Saturday along with the front end. The power steering pump will be removed and rebuilt as well. Leaving it off as it's going to have to be removed anyways to pull the front of the engine off. Pulling the valve covers off, cleaning them up, inspect what I see and throw them back on with new gaskets.
Waiting on the oil change until I get the front of the engine back together with the Comp Cams double roller timing set, new water pump and front crank seal.
What's next to purchase.
Felpro Timing Cover Gasket Set
Gates Water Pump
Fel Pro Water Pump Gasket
SKF Front Crank Seal
Spectra Heater Core
Spectra F26D 38 Gallon Fuel Tank
Dorman Fuel Tank Straps For 38 Gallon Tank
Precision Electric Fuel Pump Hanger Assembly A30250
Fuel Line Hose
Fuel Filter
Just going to use the rear tank this winter. Why I'm going 38 gallon. It eliminates the ability to carry a spare but that's fine. I need the extra fuel capacity and I can put the spare in the bed, it has plenty of room.
I will replace the front tank and pump next year. It's only 19 gallons.
Reason to replace the tank is because I found a bunch of crap in the carb upon rebuild. I don't want to shove my freshly rebuilt carb full of crap right off the bat.
Total the truck will be able to hold 57 gallons of fuel. 57 x $3.50 a gallon = $199.5
If I'm able to get 11mpg which is as optimal as it gets I will be able to travel 627 miles on that 57 gallons of fuel.
What I'm looking at doing next year is purchasing a gear vendors overdrive/gear spliter unit. Which would net me possibly 16mpg. But set me back $3100. In time I think it will pay for it's self though.
I do not want to go ZF5 5 speed because it has an aluminum housing and is no where near as tough as my T19. My T19 is damn near indestructible. Plus it has a synchronized 1st gear unlike the older more common T18.
The only issue I might have with the gear vendors kit is torque capacity with the 460. Another similar mechanism I looked at was $1300 but it had a maximum torque capacity of only 420ftlbs. Which I'm at 380ftlbs stock! So that wouldn't work and I would likely explode that thing when I let out the clutch for the first time.
I have been researching heavily and I'm still going to stroke it to a 545ci. There is just too much to gain with no negatives not to. Plus it's only a little more expensive than if I were to do a stock rebuild as far as the bottom end.
I have decided upon an Edelbrock Performer intake manifold, ported D3VE heads which it currently has, an Edelbrock 1407 750cfm which is practically the same identical carb as it has on it now. Scat forged 545ci stroker kit and everything else high quality replacement parts.
The cam I am not certain on yet but according to Comp Cams provided website, with most of their suggested cams and without the head porting I'm looking at around 360hp and 540ftlbs. So I would guess 375hp & 550ftlbs crank. Which is more than enough to do whatever I want it to do. Plus never have to push the truck near it's limits. The bottom end will be good to 800hp and I may do some valvetrain upgrades as well just so it's really able to take some abuse not that I intend to abuse it.
I'm guessing the other unit you looked at is the Ranger? Usually the torque ratings are for warranty purposes. I'd do research and see what people in the real world say about it. I know of at least one person who had great success withthe Ranger in a 1-ton 86 Chevy crew cab hauling loads in the mountains of Colorado.
On that note, what kind of driving will you be doing with this truck? If it's mostly local driving and no long highway trips, the fuel savings may not make up for the cost of the overdrive. I'm sticking with the SM465 in my C10 for a long time, mostly because it's bulletproof and I don't drive the truck often enough to justify the cost of a newer 5 speed or an auxiliary overdrive transmission.
I'm guessing the other unit you looked at is the Ranger? Usually the torque ratings are for warranty purposes. I'd do research and see what people in the real world say about it. I know of at least one person who had great success withthe Ranger in a 1-ton 86 Chevy crew cab hauling loads in the mountains of Colorado.
On that note, what kind of driving will you be doing with this truck? If it's mostly local driving and no long highway trips, the fuel savings may not make up for the cost of the overdrive. I'm sticking with the SM465 in my C10 for a long time, mostly because it's bulletproof and I don't drive the truck often enough to justify the cost of a newer 5 speed or an auxiliary overdrive transmission.
You would be absolutely correct.
I looked a bit online for reviews on the Ranger. I should do a bit more research. I mainly threw it aside because of the price as well as that rating. I figured it was too cheap to be very good. But maybe that was a hasty decision.
I'd really like to drive it daily actually. I drive a Powerstroke daily now but it has over 400K on it and is only 2wd.
I don't want big tires or a lift. I also have loads in excess of 12,000lbs to pull with it at least a few times a year. When I move I plan on throwing my Mazda B3000 and CB on a trailer and hauling them where ever we move to. Which, depending on my other half's job, may be as far as Anchorage AK or possibly the North West. So I have that move to think about with this truck.
Where I live it's best to get into town with the interstate. So it would see that stretch quite a bit which is a 70mph zone. 55 is a bit too slow to be safe but 65 would do nicely. I don't feel well about going over 55 with the big block and 4 speed.
Have you hooked a vacuum gauge up at idle? You will know right away if you have a burned valve. I just sent my heads off for rebuild.
I'm going to do that tomorrow actually. I had one but I don't think its worth a damn anymore. I had Autozone order one I really like and it is supposed to be there at 9:00AM.
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