H311RA151N : 1986 Ford F-250 XL

[H311RA151N]

Got the new fuel tank in late last week. Old float was still good from a couple years ago. It's the cluster or the wiring that is causing the fuel gauge fault as it still doesn't work. No big deal. I'm going to run an external fuel gauge in the appropriate ohm range with all new wiring all the way up to the wiring on the new sending unit.

I'm getting incredible fuel mileage and the fuel mixture is noticeably richer. It burns your eyes and nose if you sit at a stop for very long. This leads me to believe that the inline fuel pump that isn't needed that I bypassed and fixing the fuel leak has increased pressure to the carb.

I need to turn the idle screws down a bit. That will fix the rich fuel mixture at idle.

Fuel mileage is at least 8mpg. Which is remarkable for this truck's configuration. So much so that some would question whether these claims are accurate or not. Not that I'm concerned I'm enjoying the heck out of having the fueling station pumps shut off early!



From here, I need the motor mounts put in. And I don't feel like practically yanking the engine to do it myself. Labor is about $500-$700 to have it done. Yeah, it takes that many hours as it's that hard to do.

Reason I need motor mounts pretty bad is not only are they totally shot and I can see that the engine is sitting a couple inches lower in the bay but I may be moving across the country soon. I hope so at least. I'm trying for a couple areas at the moment, one being west central Idaho in the middle of the mountains. The other being west central Wyoming, once again smack dab in the middle of the mountains. I'm hoping for this pretty badly, especially Idaho.

If I get to move (praying my rear end off that I do) this truck will be used to haul the Talon on a Uhaul car hauler trailer. Which is a demanding and delicate job. Gross weight between truck and trailer would be just shy of 11,000lbs. And gaining 5000+/- feet altitude along the way. Probably turn the 460 into a 260.

Here is the work from the fuel tank.

[H311RA151N]

This thing has been my primary transportation for almost two years now. That being said, after I get the Honda taken care of this thing will be getting my attention next.

I need to build another 460 for this thing. I want a fresh engine that I know everything about. And that I know is 100% perfect when it goes in. I'd probably care more then. I've put this 460 through some serious RPM's for a big block numerous times. I've seen 6000rpm's on the tach before. And it's plenty easy to read. But it still never misses a beat. Never smokes. Not ever.

[H311RA151N]

I've been in the process of putting together a build sheet. A realistic one now that I'm actually in the position to do this. I've talked about it in the past and even made a couple rough build sheets.

After driving this truck almost every day for 2 years I have a better idea of what I need. I would love a stroked out 521 or 545 with a nasty cam. But it's not realistically within my budget nor what I need.

My end goal is to have this truck fully restored. My plan is doing it in three steps to avoid a complete disassemble all at once.

A truck is three basic sections the way I look at it. And you can tear them down to the frame in three basic parts as well. The front end or clip. Which includes the front axle and everything attached to it, brake rotors and calipers, hubs, leaf springs, shocks, front diff, steering box ect. As well as the engine carb to pan along with the radiator and all accessories. Body wise the front fenders, inner fenders, hood, grille and bumper.

At this point, with all the above removed, you have a bare frame sticking out from the cab.

Which, at this point I want to strip the frame up until the cab down to bare metal and have it painted/coated. The frame where the steering box is mounted I'm going to box in with flat steel and a welder as well for added strength.

I plan to disassemble everything on the front axle and have it cleaned and coated. Just black. New gaskets and seals as well. Replacing all bushings and wear components. I'm not going to go all out but it will be done in a thorough manner. There really aren't that many parts, most things aren't expensive that do need replaced and this truck is really pretty solid already. The big thing is cleaning everything and painting/coating it all.

The hood is fine, no damage or rust, same with the front fenders. They are dented in places but it doesn't bother me. The front bumper is tweaked a little but that's not a concern either. So nothing changing there.

The engine is the biggest part. I have set a budget on just the engine at $2000. And a budget on everything else including the transmission, front axle and transfer case at another $2000. Which is a bit high and probably won't take that much.

Once the front end is done the hard and important part will be behind me.

Next will be the cab. Removing the cab will require pulling the hood, fenders and inner fenders off again but that's no big deal.

The floor pan on at least the driver side needs replaced as well as the rear cab corners. I will take the cab off after removing everything from the inside and put it on a trailer. I will then take the cab to someone and have them do all the welding. Depending on how much it'll cost I may have them spray it. There isn't much to spray and I don't care as much about the quality of the finish as I do the durability of the finish. I've set a budget, again of $2000.

As for the cab I'm sticking with the bench seat, door panels stereo, speakers ect. Only thing I'm adding will be gauges. Oil pressure and water temperature.

As for repair parts go on the cab. Window and door seals. Rubber floor insert and generic truck floor mats. The doors need new hinge pins. That's pretty much it. The cab is pretty straight. Most of the budget will be spent on labor for the rust repair. The drivers door has a rust spot under where the mirror attaches. I will tackle that however. It really doesn't concern me. If it fits within the $2000 budget I will tackle it. If not it will be after the three step process as I go over the truck and button up little things.

While the cab is off. Of course, the frame will be taken down to bare metal and coated.

Then of course the bed will come off and I will trailer it to have new sides put on it. Another budget of $2000. The biggest thing is the bed sides. The inside of the bed is good other than a spot of rust in one wheel arch. Three of the four corners need replaced as they are ate up with rust. Once completed the under side of the bed will be coated to prevent rust. Again, frame taken down to bare metal and coated/painted. Fuel tank is already replaced so no need to mess with that. Rear axle is good other than needing a new crush washer on the yoke. I will upgrade the yoke to a 10.5" yoke so that won't happen again. Brakes are probably ok, replaced them all three years ago. Shocks, bushings which aren't many. Rear bumper is tweaked a little but I don't care. Throwing that back on. Needs a new tail gate, latch and suspension style cable things. And a coat of paint. I'm not putting any of the trim back on it. I may save it and try to find the missing pieces later.

While the rear end is dissembled I will have the axle tubes welded for strength and the axle cleaned and coated/painted. No differential changes. The 3:55's and open diff are perfect for this truck.

Pretty basic "frame off" restoration. Doing it in three sections makes it easier to budget, decreases the time span of it being down, and gives me peace of mind for the unknown and unexpected. Most of all, it keeps it on the road.

I'm talking about spending $8000 on this truck over the span of the three sections. And here is why...

This truck gets 10-11mpg regardless of what it's pulling. That's what some new trucks get and not much less than what the newer trucks that are considered to have good mpg get.

This truck will do anything a new truck will do other than run 80-100mph. Which, I don't need. Nor is that safe for anyone anyhow. It will pull anything a new truck will pull. It's not as comfortable, nor does it have any features. But I'm happy being without those things. Simplicity and reliability run hand in hand. If there isn't much to break or wear there will be less to break and or wear. This is my opinion. Simplicity and reliability give me peace of mind. This truck came with A/C. Which I can get working pretty much any time of my choosing. It's got heat, evidently, so the two most common necessities are covered.

And lastly price. I paid $1000 for the truck. I've probably put $2000 into it over the years so say $3000. Plus the $8000 I plan to spend. Add another $1000 for incidentals and the grand total is $12,000 roughly. That's for a new truck that's tried and true for 30 years already. There will be things the truck will need in the future once said and done. But it wasn't taken good care of before I got it. So a lot of things that are preventable will be prevented with simple maintenance and care. Other things oh well. Not much has went wrong with it in 30 years. To me, $12,000 for a new truck that's not made of plastic like the new ones is a no brainer. Plus I get the fun of doing it.

I know this is a loooong post. Probably my longest ever. I doubt many will read this far. But that's ok. Maybe someone will be bored and I'll fill a 5 min void in their day.

Back on topic below is the incomplete but much refined build sheet for the engine. Just to give a direction for the way I'm going.

The Melling cam has a good sound to it. It requires valve springs. Will easily make 300hp and 500tq. Power range will be from 1000rpm to 4000-4500. Compression 9.14:1. Mild porting on the exhaust side. This alone adds anywhere from 30-50hp and about the same amount of torque. This is where the smog killed this engine. But it's nice to be able to reverse the effects and make it preform like a 460 should.


Federal Mogul Premium Engine Rebuild Kit MHP178-300 Hypereutectic Flat Tops
0.030 Over Stock Mains & Rods 9.14:1 Compression 92cc Heads

ARP Connecting Rod Bolts 155-6003 8740 Chromoly Steel



Rock Auto

Melling MTF3 Class 1 Camshaft
Melling JB900 Hydraulic Lifters (16)
Melling VS280 Valve Springs (16)
Cloyes 91122 Street True Roller Timing Set
Melling MPR274 Push Rods 8.550"
Melling MR888 Rocker Arms
Dorman 635101 Timing Cover
Mahle Victor Reinz JV932 Timing Cover Gasket Set



Machine Shop Services

Hot Tank Block
Bore & Hone Cylinders
Camshaft Bearing Installation
Install Freeze Plugs
Polish Crankshaft Journals
Press Pistons on Rods
Balance Rotating Assembly
Valve Job
Balance Springs
Shot Peen Rods

This isn't 100% solid. Like the push rods for instance. I won't know the length until I check it assembled. But 8.550 is std length and typical. I might need a little more machine work or something of that nature. 0.030 may not be optimal and the rod and main journals may not stay std. But you get the idea. This is the general direction I'm going.

This truck has gobbs of power already. And it's far from tip top. Laying on the accelerator at 25mph in 4th gear at 1000rpms it will beat most anything. Modern diesels put two lengths on me at first but shortly after I blow by them typically putting 2 to 4 lengths on them. It stops pulling at 4000rpm which is about 80mph. That's when everyone catches and passes me. This truck even pulls on my Talon for a few seconds. From about 50 to 70. Which is only a few seconds but still. The low gears and big cubes make for a oddly quick 6000lb vehicle in a specific rpm and speed range.

3rd gear and WOT it axle hops and bounces too bad. Which is why I don't typically play in that gear. I have in the past and it's even quicker but the gear is too short. That's where I've hit 6000rpms messing around. So I don't do that anymore.

Anyways. I'm done. I was bored, made a post now I'm tired.

[H311RA151N]

Rock Auto has some nice front shocks for this truck on sale.

I just picked up a set of GABRIEL G63416 Ultra Truck Shocks for the front.

$10.63 each!

[SOHC-FTW]

Have you actually started on said restomod? Sheww I wish I had time for a project I barley do anything to my own stuff working on others burns you out.

Good luck and yes I read it and keep up with you truck thread.

[H311RA151N]

Have you actually started on said restomod? Sheww I wish I had time for a project I barley do anything to my own stuff working on others burns you out.

Good luck and yes I read it and keep up with you truck thread.

I'm getting myself into position financially and I need a house with a garage or shop. That's where I'm at on it. So still in the planning stage and finding out exactly what I want/need.

I hear ya man. A person gets one of two things. Money and no time or time and no money. lol

[fatboy1185]

Nice build, I'll be following along to check your progress for sure.

[H311RA151N]

Nice build, I'll be following along to check your progress for sure.

Thank you! I really appreciate it!





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And thank you as well SOHC-FTW. Nice to see you online again!

[H311RA151N]

I happened to check and see if RockAuto had a set of rear shocks that match the front set I bought this week on sale and they did not. So I checked Amazon and they did! Instead of $26 each they had them on sale for $21. That's with shipping.

Gabriel G63461 Ultra Truck Shocks. For the rear. I wonder how it will ride!

[SOHC-FTW]

I check in here and there life's been hectic so free time is rare. But maybe about to change to a part time job if the wife goes back to work so I can maybe spend more time with the youngn's as you can't buy that stuff back with money and my arthritis has gotten so bad here lately I need a career change body work since 15 has killed my hands knees and back to the point where my hands won't do normal day to day things. Id rather be around to see my family grow than my bank account.

Just a question but will no trans bolt up to that 460 to give you more top end without losing all the bottom? I read you said it tops out real quick as most trucks then did but they could pull the gates off of hell also. On my 5.3 Silverado I wished 2nd gear wasn't so long you can about burry the speedo in the gear at wot but 1st is so nice power wise don't get me wrong it's no slouch in the long run but if second goes from 40ish to bout 85 it'd be a lot quicker if it's gearing wasn't like it is I still have 2 more gears ya can't really use.

[H311RA151N]

I check in here and there life's been hectic so free time is rare. But maybe about to change to a part time job if the wife goes back to work so I can maybe spend more time with the youngn's as you can't buy that stuff back with money and my arthritis has gotten so bad here lately I need a career change body work since 15 has killed my hands knees and back to the point where my hands won't do normal day to day things. Id rather be around to see my family grow than my bank account.

Just a question but will no trans bolt up to that 460 to give you more top end without losing all the bottom? I read you said it tops out real quick as most trucks then did but they could pull the gates off of hell also. On my 5.3 Silverado I wished 2nd gear wasn't so long you can about burry the speedo in the gear at wot but 1st is so nice power wise don't get me wrong it's no slouch in the long run but if second goes from 40ish to bout 85 it'd be a lot quicker if it's gearing wasn't like it is I still have 2 more gears ya can't really use.

I hear ya man. Maintenance is and has taken it's toll on me as well. Had a hernia lifting a 400lb desk in January. Hopefully my recent career advancement gets rid of a lot of the physical labor. Sorry to hear of your ailments man. I hope it pans out for the best.

Yeah, there is the ZF5 5 speed. From the 87-97 460 4x4 trucks that will work. Very common swap. But there is a torque rating on them that can easily be exceeded with the carbed trucks. I'm honestly not far from exceeding the ZF5 torque rating now. The ZF5 has an aluminum housing compared to my cast iron housed T19. The T19 is indestructible. The ZF5 isn't but it has that extra gear. I could use a ZF5 and probably wouldn't break it. The swap can be done for $1250 to $1500. I would lose the super super low 6.32:1 first gear which only came in the 83 to 86 F250 460 4x4 trucks. However, I've heard the ZF6 6 speed will work with an adapter bell housing. Same top gear ratio as the ZF5 but I would retain the super low 1st gear. I can't remember the exact ratio but it's close to 6.30:1.

[H311RA151N]

My twuck!



It's starting to need some things. Like a front lower ball joint. Which is a pain.

I received the new shocks today, all 4 of them. I'm hoping this helps keep the truck together. The roads are beating the crap out of everything. Hopefully this buys me some time.

[H311RA151N]

Put the new rear shocks on tonight. I'm being extra productive I know! Haven't went for a test ride yet. Old shocks have to be originals. They were a royal pain to get out due to the bolts being seized in the bushings.

[H311RA151N]

It rides so much nicer! I can't wait until I get the fronts on (next week).

At work today.

[H311RA151N]

I think I can limp this thing along long enough to tear it down section by section when I get a house with a garage. Hopefully later this year.

I'm rather intimidated by the front end components. I haven't worked much with differentials or axles of this type. That's where most of my problems are at. Basically just a lot of components that are fairly worn. It's something I'm going to have to take my time doing for sure. Everything is so heavy duty, labor intensive and some of it is expensive.

The new shocks in the rear are really helping. I can't wait to get the fronts on next week.