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    B16a problem

    Ok here is my problem, as you all know off my last post about my g/f del sol she had a bad clutch. Well we replaced that today and when we went to go drive barely moved. And i mean when i floor it it feels as if i am driving normal. Now i know its not the clutch or axles. So i am guessing electrical. Cause when i push the throttle down with my finger it either tries to kill to car or it hesitates at first then revs hard. Im stumped no CEL either. So any help would be awesome
    ~Nick~
    FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
    MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

    #2
    it "feels" like the engine is recieving no fuel, but we didnt touch any fuel lines or any electronics for the fuel. no CEL but doesnt run correct, so im lost

    174.92 BHP / 171.45 WTQ

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      #3
      Vacuum leaks? Bad computer? Bad o2?
      I had that problem on my old BMW. No CEL but it ended up being my o2 sensor. Good luck.

      Comment


        #4
        I would check the TPS and replace if necessary with new (www.kteller.com) has some at reasonable prices.

        I would also become familiar with your engine management system setup. Is it stock or has it been tampered with and/or after-market (i.e. chipped ECU, Hondata, piggyback, etc). Then, investigate that for proper wiring, installation, etc.

        If the above fine, I would continue with the TW coolant sensor, this reports back to ECU your coolant temperature for A/F adjustments, etc. This is the coolant sensor on the passenger-side of cylinder head on F/H series engines, probably same on Bseries I would think. If that is bad, replace with new ($33 OEM for Fseries). Using used parts on these critical sensors is not a good idea.

        Bad oxygen sensor, could be, if you're getting horrible gas mileage. Usually in city type driving is where you will get driveability issues regarding this component being bad.
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          #5
          Hmm even if there is no CEL did you jump it just in case to see if it threw anything? Make sure fuses are all good? Double check if all grounds are hooked up properly? It could be a bad tps as mentioned if when you drive it shutters, goes back to normal, or if it just cuts/hesitates and drives a lil after. And you said it ran fine before right?

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            #6
            Originally posted by NAiL05
            Hmm even if there is no CEL did you jump it just in case to see if it threw anything? Make sure fuses are all good? Double check if all grounds are hooked up properly? It could be a bad tps as mentioned if when you drive it shutters, goes back to normal, or if it just cuts/hesitates and drives a lil after. And you said it ran fine before right?
            Yes, it ran fine minus the bad clutch, which was the problem 5 bent teeth and no material on the clutch. But i will reattach the grounds again, and i will check the tps tonight. Also i will look over the fuses. But ya it did stutter while driving. I am also going to do a compression test on it too. It is same as an f-series 180+ =
            ~Nick~
            FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
            MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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              #7
              I know whats wrong. Its a B series.






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                #8
                Originally posted by wafflefries
                I know whats wrong. Its a B series.






                damnit i was wrong again ok time to throw the piece of chit and put an h in it lol. No seriously it is fun to drive though. But not as fun as my f22a-t
                ~Nick~
                FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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                  #9
                  wrong timimg and probably bent valves

                  totally not us

                  174.92 BHP / 171.45 WTQ

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                    #10
                    Originally posted by BadgerType
                    wrong timimg and probably bent valves

                    totally not us
                    ya like badger said the timing was off by 5 teeth on the intake side. So i am suspecting bent valves which would explain the car not starting since the distributor is on that cam. And that would also explain the low compression so we are taking the head off this week to assess the damage, and we are going to be rebuild it with bisimoto or skunk2.
                    ~Nick~
                    FSAE (F Series Accord Enthusiasts) ..."A dying breed thats taking it to the next level" Lucky #13
                    MR Thread:http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ight=Grumpys93

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