Does anyone have the Skunk 2 Pro-series intake manifold, either H or B series? And is it worth it? I have a gsr and found a legit pro series skunk 2 IM for $230 (brand new) and was wondering if it would be worth it.
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Originally posted by JYardBanditDoes anyone have the Skunk 2 Pro-series intake manifold, either H or B series? And is it worth it? I have a gsr and found a legit pro series skunk 2 IM for $230 (brand new) and was wondering if it would be worth it.90 4Dr.CB7, 416,XXX KMS and still running like a champ!
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[QUOTE=Chrisisiced]Can you report
definitely report your findings...has anyone done this upgrade on their H...if so what kinda gains did you haveLast edited by 90-JDMCB7; 09-20-2007, 06:56 PM.
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...Zex wet kit, 65 shot, dual purge, JDM H22...pure sex! .....I owned 8 CB7's in one year...top that JARHEAD...lol
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And that test can also be found on HT...
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from what ive seen, it makes a much bigger difference in the b series than it does in the h, (stock for stock). it seemed to make about +10 tq and about 4 or 5hp in the b series w/ everything else stock. The dyno proved that w/ b series you loose a tiny amount low end, even smaller amount mid range, but gain a lot in the top end.
for H series, it seems that average result was a few hp gain, and a few tq gain, however i found a few cases where the max tq and hp was slightly reduced...
But, with other mods such as cams, it seemed to make a huge difference, even more of a difference than b series... (stock IM w/ cams vs. skunk2 IM w/ cams), especially with stage 2+
Edit: I've just noticed that the dynos where the H series actually lost power was with a stock intake, or an intake with a restriction. I'm sure if you have a quality intake like AEM or Weapon R, that your gains would be quite a bit more significant than if you have a $3 ebay intake with poor flow. Another factor is that the H22's that lost power also had stock injectors and were not tuned properly or tuned what so ever. I've found one dyno where the before and after tune, with adding a proper intake, had a difference of about 12hp and about 8tq.
I would assume that adding a larger throttle body would help (IE the skunk2 68mm or 70mm TB's). I think the best bang for your buck would be to get a stock H22 or H23 TB and have it bored to a larger mm, the average cost of this is about ~$100Last edited by JYardBandit; 09-19-2007, 05:10 PM.
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This is what I saw on the test for the H when I was reading HT. Euro R vs Skunk2 mani. Euro R flows really well with stock tb. I forgot the gains but they were decent. Skunk2 on the otherhand sucked ass with stock tb. Then the dude that tested it upped the anti by putting on a bigger throttle body on the skunk2 and it made like 1-2hp more than the euro R. Thats what I concluded from that test. Its somewhere around HT shouldnt be hard to find.
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I piss off people for fun.
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