*** Dyno Results ** 2003 TL-S: i/h/e... WOOHOO!!!!! **PICS & VID**

[owequitit]

well first off... im disappointed in some of you more knowledgable people. it took mea minute to notice, but i figured out i have a problem.


i should be making more power. if you look at the graph, right after 6k, the power levels off. its not peaking and dropping like it should. meaning... the motor is getting choked in the highend. not sure why though. ill definetly be getting a new filter, since im using a k&n, but its an old used but washed one. other than that, im considering a highflow cat or testpipe/ct o2 terminator.


in any of your expert opinions, whats the problem? most guys on tl.az run with the stock cat. is mine just clogged or is the old filter the issue?

I suppose the old filter could be an issue. If it is clean and in reasonably good shape, I wouldn't expect it to be though.

I am not as familiar with the cats on those, but they usually have some headroom. Perhaps V6P could answer that.

As far as your analysis, I didn't think anything appeared to be wrong with your powerband. It is peaking at about 6250, when the stock peak should have been right around 6100, the output is about right for a bolt on J32, and it pulls to the peak about like you would expect.

I think it is just charachteristic of the J series. They peak, but they don't really run out of breath before the rev limit. That is one reason why the most frequent comment I have read on these regarding power delivery is that they feel like they could pull another 500-1000 RPM.

I agree with that statement. My mom's 02 Accord being completely stock, would peak, at 5600 or so, but keep pulling right to the rev limit. You could feel it finally start to taper off just above 6K, and that was the most pedestrian version of the J series ever made.

With the 06, and the subsequent revisions to the heads etc, it bangs into the rev limit like it is on its way to 7500.

Personally, from what I have seen others come up with, you are pretty close to ballpark, and the powerband looks normal. I am not the ultimate J series expert, but it looks OK to me.

Maybe you need something else like a tuneup and valve adjustment. Those can both have relatively profound effects on your output.

[DrLove'sKuDang]

everything youre saying makes sense... its just that all the graphs ive seen look like this.



not to mention, it peaks around 6.5, while mine does before 6.25.

[accordme93]

hey shane, i'm working on trying to get an Injen CAI. I got him down to $130 shipped.

One thing I'm worried about is sucking up water. When it rains here in Modesto the streets can get anywhere from 6 inches to 2ft of water in some places. How hard is it to install a bypass?

[owequitit]

everything youre saying makes sense... its just that all the graphs ive seen look like this.



not to mention, it peaks around 6.5, while mine does before 6.25.

Are those your pulls plotted below the green one?

One of the issues you may be having is your selected set of bolt ons.

They may have altered the powerband such that you are seeing more overall power than stock, but you are seeing it lower in the powerband, although your peak is still a little higher than what it should be stock, so it would appear that it likely moved up a bit. That, plus the increased numbers would indicate better breathing.

What bolt ons were the other guys running? Comptech is a fairly common brand on those, and I know they tend to pull a little higher than some other brands, so that could effect the results too.

You are talking a variance of less than 5HP and less than 300RPM. I have seen stock stuff vary by almost 200 rpm and at least as much HP.

You are sort of operating in the margin of error, which is going to make it much more difficult to find a problem if there is one.

If you had a baseline dyno, that might help too, because you would expect any issues encountered stock, to carry over to the new powerband.

As far as what to check, you may check all of your filters and fluids first, and then I would start checking secondary maintenance items such as fuel filter, valve clearance etc. Those can both potentially have an effect.

The owner's manual on those states a 105,000 mile adjustment interval, but in the notes, it will mention that more frequent adjustment may be necessary if driven under extreme conditions.

Realistically, it depends on the conditions in my experience, but I have seen them need adjustment in as little as 25% of the recommended interval if driven really hard. That usually applies to older engines with high mileage, but I would expect a reduced interval if you are on it all the time.

I know you drive hard a lot, but I don't know if you drive as hard as some people I have met. I also don't recall your mileage.

Plus, you have no idea how the people that owned it before you drove it.

A valve adjustment would certainly have a bearing on top end performance.

Potentially, a clogged filter would too, but like I said, if it is clean and in relatively good shape, that shouldn't make too much of a difference, because those filters typically outflow most engines by a substantial margin.

**EDIT** Just spent some time looking at dynos for what I could find.

Looks like most bolt on Type S's peak around 6200-6400, most of them closer to 6400. But, I also noticed, that while they peak at 6400 and then drop off towards rev limit, yours flattens out and remains there till redline.

Since your #'s are ball park, I wonder about that. Do you know for sure that your intake bypass is opening? One guy on there with a bolt on J32-S in his Accord had some pulls that looked like that, but the bypass wasn't opening...

[DrLove'sKuDang]

hey shane, i'm working on trying to get an Injen CAI. I got him down to $130 shipped.

One thing I'm worried about is sucking up water. When it rains here in Modesto the streets can get anywhere from 6 inches to 2ft of water in some places. How hard is it to install a bypass?

its easy to install. jus cut the tube into two and mount it inbetween.




owequitit:
how can i check if the bypass is opening? im not even sure on how this motor works. i know this much... when im cruising and i give it a little gas, enough to accelerate but not enough to downshift... i hear the motor instantly get louder, kinda like the iabs' on my accord. except this isnt determined by rpm, but by throttle%.

[owequitit]

its easy to install. jus cut the tube into two and mount it inbetween.




owequitit:
how can i check if the bypass is opening? im not even sure on how this motor works. i know this much... when im cruising and i give it a little gas, enough to accelerate but not enough to downshift... i hear the motor instantly get louder, kinda like the iabs' on my accord. except this isnt determined by rpm, but by throttle%.

Well, honestly, I am still learning about them myself.

I am not sure about the throttle setting thing, because I thought that the bypass opened by RPM like the Accord.

Perhaps you are hearing VTEC kick in. With the way it works on those, it may be engaging the second intake valve at higher throttle settings, but I am not sure on that either. I will have to see what I can find out.

The physical concept is similar to the IAB's on the Accord, but they are electrically activated instead of vacuum activated. That little black thing in the center of the side of your IM on the passenger side near the belts is the motor that opens them.

My understanding of the system in the J series is that the butterflies close off runners that connect the plenums on the two banks together. This forces the air to take a longer higher velocity route to the cylinders and keeps the 2 cylinder banks breathing seperately.

Then at a certain RPM, the butterflies pop open, tying the 2 seperate chambers together resulting in one large intake plenum, which is good for high rpm breathing.

I don't know if the actual intake runner length on these changes or not though.

So it is similar to IAB's but not identical.

To test it, try taking your car out to someplace desolate and rev it. See if there is any way to tell when they pop open. That is the best suggestion I have right now.

With the H/F series it is really easy, because you can watch the diagragm arm move. I don't know if that is the case with these though.

Let me do some research and I will see what I can find.