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He was boosted almost 4 years ago when I met him. I know he blew one stock-block H22 before that, and had a bottle fed H22 setup before then (probably the same motor he blew). He's been swapped for about 10 years, I think... but not boosted.
How long doesn't necessarily reflect mileage, either. A PROPERLY built and tuned Honda turbo motor can last a very long time. "Significant" boost is what? Over 10psi? Over 15? Over 20? The higher you go, the shorter the lifespan is likely to be. That goes for ANY turbo motor.
However, a PROPERLY built motor is NOT cheap. Accord_SiR and I went over the costs of building a motor similar to his some time ago, and I believe we arrived at a number near or over the $10,000 mark... assuming I do most of the non-machine labor myself. I did my best to cut corners, and he shot down every idea. To safely make 400+hp, and have it last, you're going to have to build the motor pretty much from the ground up. You're also going to have to upgrade at least the axles to handle the power (the transmission should be reinforced as well, and LSD added... we didn't even go into that at the time!). If you aren't experienced at building motors, it would also be very wise to have the motor professionally assembled, as turbo tends to find and exploit any weakness in a motor. A flaw that would probably remain unnoticed in an NA motor for 50,000 miles might prove to be fatal at 15,000 miles when running 15psi (assuming that NA motor isn't a 9000rpm monster... and just a standard motor).
Almost ALL turbo setups I've seen fail have been due to improper tuning, improper components, or cheap/stock internals.
MRX's setup lasted what, 2 years before it finally gave out? That was largely due to a properly sized turbo, good tuning, and intelligent driving (he didn't beat the living piss out of the car every single day). He had stock internals.
Accord R33 managed to have his car last for over a year, I believe... and it never gave out on him. He sold it without the turbo, and the new owner junked it shortly after (so sad ) As far as I know, that motor went to the junkyard in running condition. He had stock internals, high mileage, and a fairly small 14b turbo (really not the proper size for our motors). His tuning was good, and again, he didn't beat on the car all the time.
Tune, drive the car with respect, maintain it, and it should last a while. Use proper components (good turbo of the correct size, big intercooler to keep temps down, proper fuel setup, etc...) and you'll probably last longer. Build the motor with good parts, and assemble (or have it assembled) correctly, and it should last a very long time.
There's no reason a properly built motor shouldn't last 80,000-100,000 miles with a good setup, a good tune, and a good owner.
My turbo setup has lasted me 35.5k @ 18 psi max....then again that's the stock setup with the boost increased some
Turbocharged from the factory FTW. I'm kinda glad I never even considered boosting the H. That would have just led to a world of bills and frustration.
Accord R33 managed to have his car last for over a year, I believe... and it never gave out on him. He sold it without the turbo, and the new owner junked it shortly after (so sad ) As far as I know, that motor went to the junkyard in running condition. He had stock internals, high mileage, and a fairly small 14b turbo (really not the proper size for our motors). His tuning was good, and again, he didn't beat on the car all the time.
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nope. the motor was toast before it got parted.
Finally Up and Running. Numbers to Follow. Check my MR
i have been boosted at 10psi for 8 months now. On stock internals
And mrxs motor blew because of shortage of oil not the turbos fault if i remember right, but antoine correct me if i am wrong. But ya the motor did not blow because of the turbo.
However, a PROPERLY built motor is NOT cheap. Accord_SiR and I went over the costs of building a motor similar to his some time ago, and I believe we arrived at a number near or over the $10,000 mark... assuming I do most of the non-machine labor myself. I did my best to cut corners, and he shot down every idea. To safely make 400+hp, and have it last, you're going to have to build the motor pretty much from the ground up. You're also going to have to upgrade at least the axles to handle the power (the transmission should be reinforced as well, and LSD added... we didn't even go into that at the time!). If you aren't experienced at building motors, it would also be very wise to have the motor professionally assembled, as turbo tends to find and exploit any weakness in a motor. A flaw that would probably remain unnoticed in an NA motor for 50,000 miles might prove to be fatal at 15,000 miles when running 15psi (assuming that NA motor isn't a 9000rpm monster... and just a standard motor).
Maybe for an h22/h23 since you have to sleeve if you want it to last a long ass time.
F22's, I can have a properly built turbo setup that will hit 400whp safely and have it last for under 5k.
i have been boosted at 10psi for 8 months now. On stock internals
And mrxs motor blew because of shortage of oil not the turbos fault if i remember right, but antoine correct me if i am wrong. But ya the motor did not blow because of the turbo.
It's rarely "the turbo's fault"... but chances are, if he wasn't boosted, that failure wouldn't have occurred when it did. Still, that's a long time on stock internals for an old car! I know what you're saying, though... it wasn't a direct boost-related failure. No cracked pistons, no damaged rods, no bent or burned valves, no damage due to detonation from improper fueling, no failure of the wastegate to produce a fatal boost spike...
d112crzy
It is true that the estimates we came up with were for an H22... but honestly, for "significant boost", they'd hold true for an F22 as well. The H22's FRM sleeves are just as strong as the F22's iron sleeves... but both will only hold a certain level of boost for so long. FRM is actually better at heat dissipation than iron. The H22 does have higher compression, so the internals need to come out to have a safe margin of error. The F22 has a turbo-friendly compression. Still, those old and soft stock bits in there won't hold up to very much for long. I would say $3000 MINIMUM for a motor build that can handle boost, without sleeving. That's taking into account all the necessary seals, gaskets, bearings, machine work, etc... Add at least another $1000 for a resleeve (and shipping costs won't be incredibly cheap either). A GOOD turbo setup will be quite pricey. A decent sized turbo in good shape (preferably new) will be over $500, possibly over $1000, depending on what you get. You'll need a good manifold... the DSM manifold won't work for much. A good wastegate is imperative, and a good BOV is good to save that expensive turbo. Piping isn't too cheap (and a ghetto job won't be justified if you've already put $5000 into it). A properly sized intercooler will be $300 minimum. Injectors... I wouldn't trust junkyard DSM bits for that. ECU should be dyno tuned. More advanced fuel management might be good (as an ECU tuner, I know you'll argue that... and I know uber and crome both have enough features to work well enough). If you're not one of the few that can tune, you have to pay for that. Then you have the fuel pump, possibly a larger rail. Axles, clutch (you will FRY a stock clutch with even low boost!) A proper sized exhaust. A boost gauge will be very smart...
I'm leaving some stuff out because I realize I wrote a novel... but cheaping out on any of those parts wouldn't be wise. You COULD build a reliable turbo motor making 400hp for under $5000... but how reliable? How long will it last? Sure, it's possible that it could last longer than my expensive one... but the better the parts, and the more competent the installation and tuning, the greater the chances of survival.
I've had mine for 3 months now, no problems, yet. I keep a close eye on the oil and I have a wideband that detects if there might be a problem ih the a/f ratio. Other than that I dont beat on it everyday, hardly at all, and I always let it idle for a minute before shutting it off, I dont have turbo timer, but I should get one. Anyway it hasnt been long, and Im on stock internals, but it was tuned well and Im running 7psi
SOLD!! Boosted H22 375whp 298 ft/lbs at 15psi MEMBERS RIDE THREAD<<<CLICK FOR VIDS AND COOL PICS
Tuning is key. You CAN boost a stock internal H22 (as mozzandherb has proven)... but your margin for error is considerably smaller. The motor should also be very healthy. Keeping a very close eye on things (again, as demonstrated) is necessary as well. Turbo introduces a whole new set of potential problems.
yeah before boosting as Deev said make sure you have a healthy engine. Do a leak down test and a compression test. But note that you will probably have to upgrade some things before and after you boost. I will eventually upgrade my internals, or I might go with the Mahle pistons, either way that wont be happening for a while. My main concern now that I have boost was that on those really hot days in the summer, in traffic my engine would heat up quick....now thats it`s cold here again I dont have that problem, but next year I will have to relocate my battery, relocate the air filter and either add another fan, or get a bigger rad
SOLD!! Boosted H22 375whp 298 ft/lbs at 15psi MEMBERS RIDE THREAD<<<CLICK FOR VIDS AND COOL PICS
IF I took my F22A1 and kept everything stock from the T/B down to the Oil Pan and only replaced the seals bearings gaskets pistons studs and rod bolts, what kind of life would you guys expect out of 1 BAR?
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