yes 800 or 1000 would be better. 800 is TWICE as light sensitive as 400
you will sacrifice film quality, which won't be as noticeable since you are taking pics of bright light -- there are some minor issues which photoshop can fix and i'd be more than happy to clean up your pics for u if you'd like
quick reference:
shutter speed and aperture both help determine how much light hits your film. effects wise -- adjusting aperture will also change your depth of field, while shutter speed will give or take from a motion blur (niether of which matter when taking a still shot into bright light)
I am trying not to make a novel out of this... but in a nutshell 400 will work fine if you do it right... i have taken some really crazy night shots with 400 and a bounced flash in pitch black -- you are taking shots with 400 and shooting INTO light... this is what you need to consider, what light exists WITHIN the image... not the ambient environment, that is also what your camera looks at when it meters... it looks at where you point it - it doesn't know about the rest of your surroundings
the camera you have is a good one. i shoot mainly with a Nikon N60 35mm SLR and usually in full manual mode. but in your case, def go with shutter priority and trust your internal light meter
you will sacrifice film quality, which won't be as noticeable since you are taking pics of bright light -- there are some minor issues which photoshop can fix and i'd be more than happy to clean up your pics for u if you'd like
quick reference:
shutter speed and aperture both help determine how much light hits your film. effects wise -- adjusting aperture will also change your depth of field, while shutter speed will give or take from a motion blur (niether of which matter when taking a still shot into bright light)
I am trying not to make a novel out of this... but in a nutshell 400 will work fine if you do it right... i have taken some really crazy night shots with 400 and a bounced flash in pitch black -- you are taking shots with 400 and shooting INTO light... this is what you need to consider, what light exists WITHIN the image... not the ambient environment, that is also what your camera looks at when it meters... it looks at where you point it - it doesn't know about the rest of your surroundings
the camera you have is a good one. i shoot mainly with a Nikon N60 35mm SLR and usually in full manual mode. but in your case, def go with shutter priority and trust your internal light meter
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