Is this a smart way to pick a car?

[deevergote]

Keep in mind, the Maxima was aimed at a market above that of the Accord. The Accord was competition for the Altima and Camry. The Maxima competes more directly with the Avalon (and previously, the Cressida).

I don't feel that Nissan has the attention to detail that Honda has, nor the quality materials. However, I don't think the quality is bad enough to be an issue. I'd just prefer Honda materials over Nissan in most cases.


As for the Volvos, you're probably right. My old 940 had transmission issues, but I never looked into the cost to repair or replace it. The cost for basic maintenance and normal wear items (brakes, suspension, etc...) was on par with the CB, maybe a little higher.

Really, a TL or Accord would suit your needs the best. A K24 Accord, while fairly boring, would offer the best combination of economy, reliability, comfort, and style. A well-maintained 7th gen with a K24 would likely be under 10k by now. The design isn't terribly dated looking, even by today's standards (a decade later), so if it's in good shape, people that don't know Accords could be fooled into thinking it's a much newer car!

[gloryaccordy]

Yea the K24 Accord is good money. Its pretty much a modern CB. Actually, I bought my first CB 10 years ago, so it would kind of be like a trip down memory lane. My CB was a lot cheaper than CMs though ($2200 in 03 vs 6-8K for an equivalent CM now). I have way more confidence in keeping a CM1 for a couple of years though so the price hike is worth it. Its roomy, comfy, quick enough stock, great suspension layout and of course the K24A1 takes to mods like a fish to water. Only real gripe with it, its a little too "1996 Ford Taurus" in profile, and while the K sounds good it doesn't hold a candle to a VQ w/a big IM and EL headers.

[wed3k]

You are totally over thinking it in my opinion. It's a used car. Don't put too much pressure on some system you made up. Follow your instincts, do some research, look at a car, decide if its a good idea.

My opinion anyways.

yea its not like you're having a child or something. if you made a bad purchase, learn from it, get rid of it and move on. im all for smart investments but its just a car lol

[Joey GT-R]

I'm with everybody else on Volvos, and European cars in general. They are very safe and generally very reliable. If I remember correctly Volvo used a Haldex AWD system so it should hold up pretty well; but because it's Haldex parts are slightly pricey. Maybe it's because I sell them and I have a soft spot for them after the years. All I see with Volvos are oil changes, and the usual 7500 mile service package they get.

With european cars they all mostly come turboed, unless it's V6 or V8. So I'm not on the whole abused bandwagon, unless you're talking about a GTI/GLI/S40/Kompressor. Even then, when you see an abused car, you will KNOW it. Because the interior and everything else will be abused as well generally. When it comes to euros you have to be on your Ps and Qs. Service EVERYTHING at the dealer or at a shop that specializes only in european makes, unless you feel confident enough to do it yourself. If you let a european car's service lapse, you're going to pay. Do I see VWs/BMWs/Benzs/Volvos with $5000+ service bills? All the time, but when you look at the owner, and you look at the maintenance history, there's a story that tells why.

[Ralphie]

Just to put Volvo in perspective...

the latest Consumer Reports could only recommend 50% of the current Volvo lineup due to their problems....

if anyone wants that article scanned and uploaded, I will do it.

I would just avoid Volvo.....i think the article said, the only thing they do right anymore is make a "safe" car. It end's there.

Might as well drop it from the lineup, especially since they are not that intriguing anyway.

[tutsuo]

Good god man... Nissian Maxima ranks the highest... EWWWW


Kelly Blue Book <- Done

[alan lx]

I like your systematic approach. Personally I would add in five year maintenance costs and resale value. Also, maybe some factors should be weighted more than other factors?

On a side note, I recently test drove a few newer cars for the family vehicle. I was VERY impressed with the 2007 Accord.

[owequitit]

A CL-S or accord v6-6 is not going to have better fuel economy than an integra GSR

My old 1991 integra could easily get into the mid 30's on the highway

a v6-6 or cl-s would struggle to reach 30

my dad has an 02 honda odyssey with a j35 and the 5 speed automatic and that struggles to reach 23 on the highway. Its heavier but the motor itself is very similar.

And i'm not talking about a tank thats like 75% highway and 25% city. Literally a tank that is 100% highway, stop refill and continue on the highway.

You clearly have no experience with the car. BOTH of our 7th gens put out 33-34 highway routinely at 80+MPH. The 6 speed was only an MPG or two down due to slightly lower cruising gearing. They also did about the same as the CB7 in the city with reliable mid 20's (100% "city" driving).

You also neglect that the MMC Odyssey from that generation got a pretty big uptick in real world MPG due to engine revisions (which were based on the revisions on the J30A4 in the Accord), and the early models of the generation Odyssey you quote also had a 4AT versus the 5AT or 6MT of the Accord (both of which were more efficient).

Consider that the new Accord weighs 3500lbs, has over 280HP (the new engine is under-rated), and owners are reporting highway values of 34-35MPG HWY real world.

A 2005 honda odyssey has a .30 coefficient of drag

As does the 03-07 accord


And my integra didn't really have any " long gearing " 80mph at 4000rpm is hardly long. At that point i really don't see any shorter gearing hurting it much more since its already fucked.

The coefficient of drag is only one part of the equation. Total drag is based on coefficient of drag x frontal area, and it is pretty impossible to argue that an Odyssey doesn't have more frontal area than an Accord.

Regardless any of that theres still no way a v6 heavy CL/accord is going to compete with a 4 cylinder smaller lighter integra.

You have nothing other than assumption upon which to base this. The J series has about the best BMEP of any production engine, and thus is very efficient. Plus, the power delivery is far less frenetic than that of the B18C.

[gloryaccordy]

Is this really necessary owequitit

[91cbseven]

My wife has a maxima 3.0 and its a pretty good car pretty peppy but not so great on the gas mileage. Also have another friend with one that has 340,000 miles on it and it runs great been in the family since it was new. My wife's car get around 21 average but thats mostly city. Obviously the manual would get better gas mileage. That's my thoughts on them...

[owequitit]

Is this really necessary owequitit

Simply clearing up some misinformation. There is no need to claim something as absolute when they don't know.

Also, your value equation confuses cost with value...a Contour might be dirt cheap, but I am pretty sure you would find it to not have a lot of value.

[gloryaccordy]

I made some changes. I think the Contour got knocked down and out of the running.