Post PICS of your latest purchase

[GhostAccord]

My 85 GT has the same VIN code 9 (high Output), L44 V6 as the X-11.
140 hp @ 5200 rpm
170 lb⋅ft @ 3600 rpm

[H311RA151N]

Added this to my Makita arsenal today. I torture my Makita drills, impacts etc. Been beating on one of my small impact for 5+ years. Used at work every day for 3 of those years. Looks like hell but still going strong.

Makita XWT08Z LXT

740 feet lbs 1180 break away.

[CyborgGT]

Had to buy something small and fun that runs, not another project............yet!

Sorry, gotta plant that seed. Here's some inspiration:



Looking forward to what you do to yours

[talonted1990]

Speedfactory h-beam rods

[Corweena]

Had "treat yo self" moment earlier this week and snagged myself a CL1 Euro R Mugen carbon fiber intake box. Its beautiful.

[CyborgGT]

Very nice. Hopefully this one doesn't get smashed.

I got the Mugen DC5 air box for my RSX. Sadly, (aside from not being carbon) it needs to be hacked up a bit on a couple of the edges to fit my LHD car. Brake master cylinder being on that side and all. It's still a very nice piece, though.

[deevergote]

I wonder how many noobs will mistake it for a stock airbox.

[Corweena]

Very nice. Hopefully this one doesn't get smashed.

I got the Mugen DC5 air box for my RSX. Sadly, (aside from not being carbon) it needs to be hacked up a bit on a couple of the edges to fit my LHD car. Brake master cylinder being on that side and all. It's still a very nice piece, though.

Yeah, I got lucky and actually was able to save my AEM V2 out of the previous car when it was wrecked. Because it was a Prelude spec one, it wasn't bolted down on the bracket so it just moved when the front got crunched.

I'm lucky that the 5th Gen Accord has a similar intake setup as the Euro R/Prelude, I may just have to drill into the bay to mount the bottom of the box to the chassis. Can still keep my battery without any issues. I'll also have to see how I can modify the other pieces (bumper cold air funnel and the flat plate when bolts to the tow hook and keeps warm engine air out). Those are both CF too, but without a clear coat on them.

I wonder how many noobs will mistake it for a stock airbox.

That's actually what I'm going for, subtlety. I already have a Euro R intake arm, and planned on just running a Feels Honda Twincam intake elbow, but when I saw this pop up, I knew this is what I wanted. Should fit into the theme of the car perfectly.

[Fleetw00d]

Rust free quarter panels in case I decide to do Ruby again. Yeah the left side is dented at the rear, but good around the wheel well. Had a nice rear bumper, grabbed that too.

20191005_115244 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

Message_1570287381798 (2) by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

The aftermath:

20191005_102132 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

20191005_115256 by Paul Kemme, on Flickr

[Jarrett]

I'm just trying to come up with the number of batteries it took to make those cuts.

[CyborgGT]

Mmmm, CB exoskeleton car.

[Fleetw00d]

I'm just trying to come up with the number of batteries it took to make those cuts.

One battery got me through the entire right side and some of the left. My second battery didn't hold a charge, so I put the original on the charger in the yard office for 45 minutes. That got me through all but 6 inches of the left side. I got frustrated waiting for it to charge again and used a chisel to get through those last six inches. With two good batteries, I could have gotten them both off in less than 3 hours. The car only had about 138,000 on it, so all the bolts came out relatively easily.

I use a six inch blade (they are cheaper, so I use them where I can) to cut around the tail light opening and forward through the trunk floor outside the frame rail and up the inner wheel housing. When close enough to the rear deck, I switch to a 12 inch blade and cut through the top of the wheel housing and rear deck at the same time. When through those, back to a six inch blade to cut down the front of the wheel housing. I use a 12 inch blade to cut forward inside the rocker box section and to cut from outside in through the rocker section to meet the previous cut. It seems to work best to leave at least a portion of the C pillar intact to support the whole thing until the lower section is separated. The rear of the interior was already removed. I just had to remove the rear bumper, trunk, drop the front of the trailing arms, remove the seat belts, the fuel filler pipe, and knock out the rear window to remove the trunk hinges. I was impatient and just cut through the rear window trim instead of trying to remove it.

I suppose I should make a DIY, but has anyone else on here cut quarters off or plan to?

[CyborgGT]

Probably not any time soon, but I do want to get a pair just to have a pair. Speaking of battery life, what brand/series of tools do you use? I've started the Milwaukee Fuel collecting, and a friend has a ton of Ryobi stuff that does well.

[CyborgGT]

Went to the junkyard for a blower motor resistor for the RSX, and came across some other things I had to have:

'92 Accord owner's manual in excellent shape, complete with warranty and collision pamphlets. The owner's manual was written in, and it was apparently an original Colorado car, purchased June 8th '92 in Boulder. I was going to take white-out to all of that, but on second thought I think the history's cool.


(*ED. 10/14: Went to another yard after that blower motor resistor didn't fix the issue, and found three more owner's manuals! So now I've got two '92s, a '93, and two '93 wagons.)


Mint B18B1 valve cover, just needs cleaning, for my Honda VC collection.


(*ED. 10/14 - Landed a fourth H22 cover as well! No idea what use I'll have for it, but whatever...)

[Fleetw00d]

Speaking of battery life, what brand/series of tools do you use? I've started the Milwaukee Fuel collecting, and a friend has a ton of Ryobi stuff that does well.

For better or worse, I have a Craftsman sawzall. I think I've used it to cut at least ten quarter panels off and cut down two shells into small enough pieces to haul to the scrap yard.