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**EGgyLShatch** · 04-18-2007, 11:41 PM

a good start. Those injectors you have are kind of overkill for now, but if you plan major upgrades then hang on to them. I'd go for a cam first, but thats just me. Once you are flowing more air through your head you'll be able to take more advantage of the nitrous. And everyone loves a big lumpstick

**rjsaccord** · 04-18-2007, 11:59 PM

lobby sounds coming from under the hood would be GOOD

thanks for the props
i see trans lock and shiftronic system and billet axles in my future all i have to do is eat ramen noodles but its worth it engine break and clutchless now i have time to pretend im a drummer in traffic sirius octane radio rocks i can see those squirrels now
quote rabid squirrels make lobby sounds and they make 15whp with dyno graph careful they bite darn foamy teeth

http://www.killsometime.com/video/video.asp?ID=877

[IMG]http://i196.photobucket.com/albums/aa144/rjsaccord/squirrellightsabers.jpg

**brownlx** · 04-19-2007, 01:34 AM

Originally posted by rjsaccord

short air intake polished alumi universal plus tornado

Dude, a tornado

Dont get that, its a waste of money, Popular Mechanics tested it and found it "reduced peak horsepower by more than 10 percent" with no change in fuel economy
Id look for the article but im to lazy

**rjsaccord** · 04-19-2007, 01:51 AM

like i said before its for the sound and i use it as a restrictor plate bottom isnt reinforced since she revs all the way up to 7k spooky
the tornado was bought a year before the article your talking about and i even have that mag somewhere oh well

added info i was getting 15 mpg when i bought the car with the T i got 20mpg with tune up 22mpg

it has 196k miles now
and dude what part of the high D i grew up in lancaster by K and 25th

info on the tornado i use it as a restrictor plate and it helps keeping the car from reaching 7k and it make the car quieter at idle but it barks at 40mph swirly sound its so kewl im simple minded and thats also why i have a heavy audio system since i got a ticket a year and half ago but im off probation in 5/1/07 but i didnt even have to pay a fine for speeding wont say how fast i was going lets just say i could have hurt someone and i know i couldnt live with myself if something like that happened and the bottom end isnt rebuild or anything so im trying to keep the horses calm for now

vid clip engine is hot and runnin rich

**brownlx** · 04-19-2007, 02:57 PM

Originally posted by rjsaccord

dude what part of the high D i grew up in lancaster by K and 25th

Im in Adelanto, a small town next door to victorville.
So the tornado actualy reduces sound, cool i guess those things can serve a purpose after all

**Cronis** · 04-19-2007, 03:16 PM

To the OP. This thread is a just a joke right?

I hope so. You haven't named anything that adds power in your long list.

For an NA engine you'd need higher compression pistons a cam valves to mutch larger injectors wich are in your list and then you'll need a chipped ecu and someone to tune it.

Or you could build a turbo kit fairly cheap and make more power and have a more streetable car, "IF" you put on your thinking cap and read some stickies.

**rjsaccord** · 04-19-2007, 07:28 PM

if your really bothered to read the write up im using trust computer to run the engine and fortheremore i said in the write up that im thinking of going 10.5 or 12to1 compression so read more and less assumptions

rjsaccord
Newcomer

Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: oregon
Posts: 8
next plan on parts and things is Tein suspen SS series with pillow ball mounts and maybe the edfc system that would be kewl at least in my feeble mind come now i use a tornado for the sound the lights are on but nobody home[/QUOTE]
so what do you fine folks think my next mod should be N2O or 272 delta cam or bisi cam please nice comments the voices like the quite or is that the N2O talking who knows

future engine build includes 10.5 or 12 to 1 havent decided not enough info obtained yet if it will work with the posibile e85 fuel system i want to run make this little thing in to a eco frieldly monster all the holy power and none of the guilt tree huggers like to push <here in the city of roses>

quote love your cb7 like its your last day
like you said put on your thinking and reading cap and maybe you could use the stickies
but its all good that you over looked and read what you wanted to read LOL

plus besides reading and writing posts wheres your write UP

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Last edited by rjsaccord : Yesterday at 09:26 PM.

after brake job

**Dv8** · 04-21-2007, 09:28 PM

Those injectors are way too big.

**rjsaccord** · 04-22-2007, 12:36 AM

you maybe right! but after im done with this na build 12 to 1 comp then with 6psi boost so yes i think i made the right choice , but when all is said and done ill be making 450 with turbo i myself think that im being precautions and building sections so i have less to do later and after i cant make anymore power safely and drivable for me ill go with the k24 but i dont know the dimensions of their auto's layout i know the six speed fits with mods but an h22 would be cheaper and the auto fit

either way ill have squirrels in the engine bay they like the warmth

but i think of them as good luck since one saved me from a ticket cops fear them lol jk

and thank you for gracing my thread with drift

FF drifter here

**rjsaccord** · 04-24-2007, 02:15 AM

msd update

msd sci system blaster ss coil extreme cap and black 8.5 msd wires were installed today and i know hondafan81 told me that it was a waste of money but i bought the stuff like 6 month ago if that is the case it was the best money i ever wasted the response of the engine is like night and day i mean i was quick reving before with the pulleys but now darn it i cant keep my eyes off that tach i love it

as a side note if you have a cb7 with ext coil dizzy you can use the 92-97 civic 1.5/1.6 msd extreme dizzy cap just some heads up for any others deciding to go this path

**rjsaccord** · 04-24-2007, 04:07 PM

question

original post 4/22
Exclamation msd update and rear sway bar
well i filled up the tank with 92 gas when installed msd and im just a fuels arm away from full mark and at 87 miles traveled im extremely happy with the install and this is all in city driving and with gunning every now and then power and eco friendly LOL that makes no logic

rear sway bar rubs on the the exhaust piping a little under idle but it makes it sound like i have staight pipes only annoying for now when i have head pounding pain from trying to figure out that damn front sway bar any help from anyone would be awesome
Last edited by rjsaccord : 04-25-2007 at 11:14 PM.

does anyone know why an ST front sway bar wholes wont align with the factory mount location wholes i know i have the right part for this car but
NO GO after having the front apart and noticed this i was quite abit angry to say the least does anyone have any advice that would be helpful thanks again i bow before the cb7s gods for them to light the carbon path ohmmm!

darn it i cant find any info on why this is not lining up oh well but if anyone has ideas please send them my way
i suspect its some suspension issue maybe ball joint related or a strut is misaligned some how that im not seeing or just too blind

update 4 27
still no go on the front suspension its quite frustrating when all my friends are in bands and dont know cars but can get you drunk an perform any rock song my little mind can think up of

scored an awesome link for newbees
http://autorepair.about.com/cs/trou...a/aa042101a.htm
tons of info

update 5/2
after talking and reading and reading and then to top it off search and read some more i think i found the real issue with my sway bar install on the front of the car
get ready for this if you dont see any damage like ball joints cv's forks lower arm upper arm damage it only leave a few things that it could be tie rod end but we all know tie rod is not going to shrink a sway bar right will the solution was staring me in the face all the time LOL its the cross member from some impact that the car had before i owned it must have crushed it ever so slightly that even having it up on a lift taking everything apart and nothing looks wrong till you see this tiny deflection in the cross member LOL i mean tiny and that causes your say bar to shrink i wouldnt have believed it in a million years if some one would have told me that, this is your problem! so word to the wise read read and then for fun read some more

edit insert
vis carbon hood received
race seats and hardware received
now i cant complain that i dont have new shine parts to gock at my wife thinks i need help but i just think i need my dose of jdm parts

i was wondering if anyone has the vis carbon trunk lid for the 93 cb7 sedan i got two 15inch subs and dont want to destory it so im ask does anyone have exper. with them as far as with them being able to handle the vibration and spl thanks i bow before you and the inifinite knowledge of cb7tuner ohmmmm

Cool future engine info
this is the reasoning behind my insane feeble minds choice for a mod list
in talking more with dave at dh-racing and we figure with stage 3 porting darton sleeves either prelude pistons or arias 12 to 1 with h beams possible lighter ones too and also knife cutting the crank shaft for that silky smooth feeling through the oil. but projected figure is around 260 to 280 stalions oh yeaaaah and all from an auto i wish my wrist would get better but its a 5 year recovery layout on the wrist and i could go to stick and switch to the dark side K24 6speed but for now changing the displacment to 2.42L so with either compression i go with, i should be going to the golden victory lane at least with autos of course but ive beaten my share of cars 21 wins to 1 lose at least around here before i found heaven IPR auto cross love the stuff what a work out since i can only use one arm to steer since my right wrist is shot volmar tendent is riped interaly and on the out side as well
quote love your cb7 like its your last day

**starchland** · 04-28-2007, 12:38 AM

Yes, do some research on appropriately mounting the seatbealts. In the event of a crash, you dont want the seat belt to crush downwards on your spine.

**rjsaccord** · 04-28-2007, 01:17 AM

4/27 this is the original post
does anyone have suggections on seat belt bars for my race seat install
ive been told by a few people that you have to install a seat belt bar so that the belts dont anchor to the floor since the belts are 4 point harness belt any help

well i kinda answered my own question so i figured id share with all
cb7s for all and all for cb7s

heres the link if you dont trust the pics
http://wescoperformance.stores.yahoo...seat-belt.html

Seat Belts >> 4-Point Seat Belt >> 4-point Seat Belt Installation Instructions

Step # 1:
Remove existing seat belt and hardware.

Step # 2:
Wrap the lap belt portion around the front of the seat and bring the (A) and (B) ends to the back of the seat. Run the (C) End over the top of the seat to the back of the seat. If there is a headrest, run it between the 2 headrest posts.

(This seat belt will not work on seats that have a headrest that is continuous with the seat...all one piece. You must either be able to run the (C) End through the center or have no headrest at all.) If you have a continuous headrest as just mentioned, then you can use our W-Jeep Seat Belt instead!

Step # 3:
Now connect the (A) End to the existing anchor point using your original hex bolt or a new one purchased from Wesco. Then do the same with the (B) End. (The hex bolt should be firmly tightened)

Important: If your vehicle does not have pre-existing anchor points (threaded holes) for the (A) and (B) Ends, such as vehicles older than 1962, then you must create them as is described for the (C) End in the next step below (Step # 4). If you are going to create your own anchorage points for the (A) and (B) Ends, then you should space them between 15-21 inches apart. See Figure 2. You will also need to purchase our 212 Hardware Kit which includes all of the additional necessary hardware.

Step # 4:
Next you must create an anchor point for the (C) End to connect to. Using a 1/2 inch drill bit, drill a hole half way between the anchorage points for the (A) and (B) Ends making sure that you don't drill into anything of importance that is below the floor board (avoid damaging exhaust system, brake or fuel lines). Once your hole is drilled, run you hex bolt through the hole in the (C) End and then through the hole that you just drilled. Using a second person under the car, slip the end of the hex bolt through the 3" fender washer and then screw on the lock nut. (The lock nut should be firmly tightened on the hex bolt)

An alternative to using the 3" fender washer and lock nut is to use our #10154 Mounting Plate which has a threaded hole and does not require a lock nut. If you like, you can permanently attach the mounting plate to the underside of the floor board.

Note: Some vehicles have an eye bolt mounted behind the back of the seat on the floor. These can be used instead of drilling a hole into the floor board, but you will need to purchase one of our Snap Ends to add to the (C) End of the harness.

Step # 5:
Now just use the length adjusters to snug up your new 4 point seat belt!

Safety Information:

Mounting
1. Mounting hardware to the floor should always have metal-to-metal contact. You should avoid carpet, plastic or any other material between the fastener components and the floor which could tend to loosen over time.
2. All bolts used through NON-threaded holes must have either a lock-nut, lock washer or apply a thread locking compound for security.
3. Bolts used for mounting seatbelts should be a minimum size 7/16" diameter, Grade 5 product.
4. Anchor points for belts must meet the strength load requirements of FMVSS 210. When replacing belts, always use the anchorages provided by the vehicle, or seat manufacturer when available.
5. Do not connect both ends of this belt to the same, single mounting point.

PROPER ADJUSTMENT:
The webbing (strap) should be threaded through the middle anchor fitting as shown in Figure 3. Adjust the length of the straps to fit the size range of various occupants. Leave at least 1" loose beyond the anchor slot.

Seat Belt Use
1. Always wear your seat belt when the vehicle is in operation.
2. Adjust and wear lap portion of the belt low and snug across your hips.
3. Each belt is intended to restrain only one person at a time. Do not put two people under one belt.
4. Never attempt to restrain a child in your lap using the restraint around both you and the child. The child could be severely injured or even killed in the event of a collision.
5. Seat Belts are matched sets. Do not mix or use this belt or parts of this belt with other types of seat belts.

Use and Maintenance Instructions
WARNING:
FAILURE TO PROPERLY INSTALL, USE, PERIODICALLY INSPECT AND MAINTAIN THIS SEAT BELT COULD LEAD TO SERIOUS INJURY OR DEATH! PLEASE FOLLOW ALL OF THE IMPORTANT INFORMATION BELOW:
Maintenance
1. Inspect belt regularly. If the assembly does not work properly or you find cuts, frayed or worn webbing the belt must be replaced.
2. More frequent inspections may be necessary if the belt is subjected to harsh treatment or extreme conditions.
3. Whenever a vehicle is involved in a collision you must replace every part of the seat belt system; both sides of the belt including the mounting hardware!
4. Clean with mild soap and water. Do not bleach or re-dye as it will tend to severely weaken the webbing.

Universal Installation Information:
If the vehicle is equipped with seat belt anchorages, these should be used in lieu of other methods.

CAUTION: DEATH OR SERIOUS INJURY COULD RESULT FROM NOT PROPERLY THREADING THE WEBBING THROUGH THE ADJUSTABLE END. MAINTAIN A MINIMUM OF ONE INCH WEBBING BEYOND THE ANCHOR. (SEE FIG. 3)
CAUTION: IF THE FIXED END OF A SEATBELT IS TOO LONG TO ALLOW A SNUG FIT ON A SMALL OCCUPANT, DO NOT USE THE BELT! YOU MUST SHORTEN THE BELT THROUGH THE ADJUSTABLE ANCHOR ENDS TO ALLOW A PROPER FIT.

**rjsaccord** · 04-28-2007, 02:22 AM

places to buy parts
http://www.nopi.com
http://www.jegs.com aftermarket
http://www.summitracing.com aftermarket
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com aftermarket
http://www.sportcompactonly.com though you have to wait 2 weeks before they return a call LOL
majectic honda oem parts
ron tonkin honda oem parts
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/ replacment part oem style and aftermarkert
carparts.com
used parts all types of quaity its where i got my h23 for like 100 bucks though it was coverd in oil and crude degreeser and a dremel and itll look like new
but i opt'd to send it to dhracing to port and polish it YOU KNOW!!!!!

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93 ex f22a6 build

93 ex f22a6 build

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