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Old 10-10-2006, 11:16 PM   #1
pangga
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Question How to use Ball joint press kit

Hi everyone! Today I borrowed a ball joint press kit from Autozone. Once I got home, I found out that there are no instructions included. Can anyone please explain how to use the ball joint press tool? Pleaaasse!! This tool is the one that look like a C clamp.
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Old 10-10-2006, 11:26 PM   #2
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well u basically use one of the larger cups i guess u can call them, and put it on the side u want to the ball joint to come out, must be larger than the bushind hole(where the bushing sits, use the other cup,that fits right over the ball joint, the basically turn to push it out
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Old 10-11-2006, 01:41 AM   #3
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You're talking about getting out the lower ball joint? That Autozone tool won't work. The knuckle interferes with the tool, not to mention there's no way that thing is gonna provide enough force to pop it out.
If you want to do it yourself take the knuckle off the car, turn it upside down and bash the ball joint out with a hammer. Putting the new one in is a little more delicate.
Or take the whole thing to a Honda dealer.
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Old 10-11-2006, 02:33 AM   #4
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dont hassle with those dam ball joint claw remover.. They are crap, I try so many time on my hondas and cant get them to work.. Besides when u get it to grip and not slip off after u put some pressure on it it pops right off, take the arme off and take it to a shop to press it out or somthing like that, but those claws dont work on our hondas, maybe on domestics, but surely not hondas!
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Old 10-11-2006, 09:16 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by uslspct
You're talking about getting out the lower ball joint? That Autozone tool won't work. The knuckle interferes with the tool, not to mention there's no way that thing is gonna provide enough force to pop it out.
If you want to do it yourself take the knuckle off the car, turn it upside down and bash the ball joint out with a hammer. Putting the new one in is a little more delicate.
Or take the whole thing to a Honda dealer.
yes the lower ball joint. I inquired at a local machine shop yesterday and they're charging me $70/hour and they it'll take an hour. I'll check how much Honda dealer charges... thanks for the info
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Old 10-11-2006, 09:28 AM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blackcb7
well u basically use one of the larger cups i guess u can call them, and put it on the side u want to the ball joint to come out, must be larger than the bushind hole(where the bushing sits, use the other cup,that fits right over the ball joint, the basically turn to push it out
thanks blackcb7... I'll give it a try...i hope it works or else its 70 bucks off my pocket....
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Old 10-11-2006, 11:18 AM   #7
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There's a much easier (and cheaper) alternative for popping the LBJ. I tried the claw puller and a pickle fork only to get pissed off for a while. I finally found something on (I think) Honda-tech detailing a rather easy way to get the ball joints loose and it works like a charm.

I'll see if I can find it again, and if not, I'll take a couple pics of mine later to show you what I'm talking about.
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Old 10-11-2006, 11:23 AM   #8
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I know I've written this before somewhere on this forum. Once you have the system, I can replace BOTH lower joints (after knuckle has been removed already) in like 30 minutes. Removing knuckles takes me about 15-20 minutes a side (i.e. jacking up car, removing removing wheel, etc.).

- remove knuckle assembly (with hub/rotor assy still installed) from car WITHOUT using pickle fork on the good joints and damaging the boots, you can do this buy using a heavy hammer to break joints loose
- hit each joint AT the bore with a heavy hammer about 5-8 times should break the joint loose and it will pop out, don't hit the boot!
- cut boot off bad lower joint
- remove snap-ring
- position knuckle with threaded end of joint pointing straight up
- find tubing/socket that goes over threaded end and sits decent on the circular base of joint
- use heavy hammer/sledge to knock joint out of knuckle bore
- clean bore
- position knuckle assembly in vise to do next operation (easier)
- install new joint using a cup/pusher method and large C-clamp (cup the threaded end, push on the flat end of joint utilizing the C-clamp to do both operations...so one one side of C-clamp you have a cup & other the pusher)
- I use impact to drive the C-clamp and it presses in the new joint, until it's seated all the way
- install new snap-ring
- reinstall in vehicle

lower joint castle nut 40 lb-ft
upper & outer tie rod joint castle nuts 32 lb-ft

Last edited by HondaFan81; 10-11-2006 at 11:31 AM.
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Old 10-11-2006, 11:23 AM   #9
Accord R33
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i got them out of my integra with a 14mm deep socket and a hammer. didn't take long at all. I don't think the accord is much different, but Scott said you can ruin the wheel bearing that way, so there is a chance it is different, since i couldn't see any way to hurt the bearing on the teg.
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Old 10-11-2006, 11:25 AM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mullet
There's a much easier (and cheaper) alternative for popping the LBJ. I tried the claw puller and a pickle fork only to get pissed off for a while. I finally found something on (I think) Honda-tech detailing a rather easy way to get the ball joints loose and it works like a charm.

I'll see if I can find it again, and if not, I'll take a couple pics of mine later to show you what I'm talking about.
Yea, it's cake...use a heavy hammer...takes about 5-8 hits per joint to pop it loose. You hit at the bore, not the threads of the joints. It temporarily disrupts the bore geometry and pops the joint loose...I didn't believe it until I tried it. Works EVERY time I'd done it and I live in Michigan. Just don't hit the boot with the hammer.

Details:

** NOTE: Take your time, take good SOLID hits NOT hitting the boot. I use my mini sledge 5 lb. **

- hit lower joint AT the lower control arm bore....hit lower control arm, on side of bore
- hit outer tie rod joint AT the knuckle bore...hit knuckle bore, on side where outer tie rod goes into
- hit upper joint AT the knuckle bore....hit knuckle bore, on side where the upper arm joint goes into

Last edited by HondaFan81; 10-11-2006 at 11:34 AM.
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Old 10-11-2006, 11:30 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Accord R33
i got them out of my integra with a 14mm deep socket and a hammer. didn't take long at all. I don't think the accord is much different, but Scott said you can ruin the wheel bearing that way, so there is a chance it is different, since i couldn't see any way to hurt the bearing on the teg.
Using the method I described above will in no way damage the wheel bearing on 90-97 Accords as you never remove it from the knuckle assembly. You will not even damage the GOOD joints in removing the knuckle, if you use the tips I mentioned. So many people (it's hilarious) damage the GOOD joints when removing one bad one to replace it. Then, later wonder why their good joints went bad, probably cuz of the nice rip you put using the pickle fork and junk gets in there *ding ding*.

If you all lived near me, I'd be making bank doing suspension work for you all. I've restored 6 cb7 suspensions (2 mine, 4 are owned by my family) and a 5th gen for a friend. Maybe I should start a "send me your knuckle assy and I'll press in lower ball joint" service..hahaha...right, too much money spent on shipping them large, heavy things.
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Old 10-11-2006, 05:45 PM   #12
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ok so you people are given this guy the hard ways to do things
get yourself a propane tourch put the new ball joints in the freezer while your removingthe old ones

to remove the old ones heat the area around the ball joint hit it with a hammer like 3 times a sledge after removing the old snapring

while its still warm put the new balljoint in and tap it with a ballpein hammer
take like 20 minutes a side
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Old 10-11-2006, 06:35 PM   #13
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Cisco, I've probably read half a dozen threads here in the last year concerning LBJ removal. And kind of like this one, at least 2 or 3 various methods will get posted. It's sort of like removing front rotors; everyone has their favorite method or "what works best/easiest."

I know what the parts mentioned look like obviously, but your discussion will have me printing this thread and reading it while looking at the car --- I'm having trouble visualizing some of it.

In particular, when you say, "hit each joint AT the bore ... don't hit the boot" are you saying to hit upwards on the bottom (flat) side --- opposite the threaded end? If so I think I see what you mean about it disrupting the geometry and therefore shaking it loose, even though what you're doing is actually hammering in the direction opposite that the ball joint will eventually come out.

^^^ Hopefully I didn't just get that all wrong? Thanks.

And yes, if I lived in MI ...
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Old 10-13-2006, 08:18 AM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HF22T
ok so you people are given this guy the hard ways to do things
get yourself a propane tourch put the new ball joints in the freezer while your removingthe old ones

to remove the old ones heat the area around the ball joint hit it with a hammer like 3 times a sledge after removing the old snapring

while its still warm put the new balljoint in and tap it with a ballpein hammer
take like 20 minutes a side
I wouldn't recommend hitting the ball joint on the flat side with a hammer directly. I also don't like torching things unless I have to and that's usually when you're dealing with some stubborn rusty fastener and it's the only way. Removing the joint is cake even just hitting it with a sledge or any heavy hammer, no need to heat.
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Old 10-13-2006, 08:19 AM   #15
HondaFan81
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Quote:
Originally Posted by deckeda
Cisco, I've probably read half a dozen threads here in the last year concerning LBJ removal. And kind of like this one, at least 2 or 3 various methods will get posted. It's sort of like removing front rotors; everyone has their favorite method or "what works best/easiest."

I know what the parts mentioned look like obviously, but your discussion will have me printing this thread and reading it while looking at the car --- I'm having trouble visualizing some of it.

In particular, when you say, "hit each joint AT the bore ... don't hit the boot" are you saying to hit upwards on the bottom (flat) side --- opposite the threaded end? If so I think I see what you mean about it disrupting the geometry and therefore shaking it loose, even though what you're doing is actually hammering in the direction opposite that the ball joint will eventually come out.

^^^ Hopefully I didn't just get that all wrong? Thanks.

And yes, if I lived in MI ...
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Old 10-14-2006, 08:38 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaFan81
I know I've written this before somewhere on this forum. Once you have the system, I can replace BOTH lower joints (after knuckle has been removed already) in like 30 minutes. Removing knuckles takes me about 15-20 minutes a side (i.e. jacking up car, removing removing wheel, etc.).

- remove knuckle assembly (with hub/rotor assy still installed) from car WITHOUT using pickle fork on the good joints and damaging the boots, you can do this buy using a heavy hammer to break joints loose
- hit each joint AT the bore with a heavy hammer about 5-8 times should break the joint loose and it will pop out, don't hit the boot!
- cut boot off bad lower joint
- remove snap-ring
- position knuckle with threaded end of joint pointing straight up
- find tubing/socket that goes over threaded end and sits decent on the circular base of joint
- use heavy hammer/sledge to knock joint out of knuckle bore
- clean bore
- position knuckle assembly in vise to do next operation (easier)
- install new joint using a cup/pusher method and large C-clamp (cup the threaded end, push on the flat end of joint utilizing the C-clamp to do both operations...so one one side of C-clamp you have a cup & other the pusher)
- I use impact to drive the C-clamp and it presses in the new joint, until it's seated all the way
- install new snap-ring
- reinstall in vehicle

lower joint castle nut 40 lb-ft
upper & outer tie rod joint castle nuts 32 lb-ft



Totally how my dad did it when he helped me, I removed each knuckle while he put int the new joint, took him like 5-8 mins, gave me the knuckle back and i installed it..... it was some nice father son time.
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Old 11-12-2006, 08:55 AM   #17
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Last edited by freq; 11-12-2006 at 08:59 AM.
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Old 11-12-2006, 08:59 AM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HondaFan81
- remove knuckle assembly (with hub/rotor assy still installed) from car WITHOUT using pickle fork on the good joints and damaging the boots, you can do this buy using a heavy hammer to break joints loose
- hit each joint AT the bore with a heavy hammer about 5-8 times should break the joint loose and it will pop out, don't hit the boot!
- cut boot off bad lower joint
- remove snap-ring
- position knuckle with threaded end of joint pointing straight up
- find tubing/socket that goes over threaded end and sits decent on the circular base of joint
- use heavy hammer/sledge to knock joint out of knuckle bore
- clean bore
- position knuckle assembly in vise to do next operation (easier)
- install new joint using a cup/pusher method and large C-clamp (cup the threaded end, push on the flat end of joint utilizing the C-clamp to do both operations...so one one side of C-clamp you have a cup & other the pusher)
- I use impact to drive the C-clamp and it presses in the new joint, until it's seated all the way
- install new snap-ring
- reinstall in vehicle

lower joint castle nut 40 lb-ft
upper & outer tie rod joint castle nuts 32 lb-ft

Truer words have never been spoken. Works awesome.

Thanks CB7TUNER.COM
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