Hey my CB7 lovers I Found a thread on here awhile back but cant seem to find it... it was to convert an automatic p-12 ecu For use in a manual CB7?
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Myself, and the other mods have been very nice and lenient with the rules. We have been deleting threads, and giving out warnings. Some members didn't get the clue and re-posted over and over... Now ANY member buying or selling in this section will be banned... No IF's AND's or BUT's.
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These are the rules. Read them. Live by them.
1) Absolutely NO flaming! "Flaming" is an outright attack on a member. ALL questions are encouraged to be asked here, no matter how basic. Members with over 30 posts will be subject to a ONE WEEK ban if caught flaming in this forum (and yes, moderators can read deleted posts). Members with under 30 posts will be subject to a ONE DAY ban.
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p12 ecu automatic to manual
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Originally posted by drew12000 View PostNo converting necessary. Auto p12 will work with manual cb7.Originally posted by Mishakol129Do not disrespect my intelligence. I am the smartest person I know : )
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Not to mention the op said he found a thread specifically detailing the conversion process. That should have been a tip-off that there was something out there.
OP, if you don't find anything send a pm to cloudasc. He's very familiar with the PT3/PT6 so he likely knows what's involved for the others also.My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!
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Join PGMFI.org and look through the library. I know that there is a DIY on there somewhere for the small box ECU's. P13/P13 JDM etc etc.... I would take the time to find a link but you have to be a member to see it anyway. Might as well look through the DIY library yourself and learn a few things.
I used the small box DIY not to long ago on a P13 and it works just fine. No CEL and no timing or idle issues.
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I remember creating a thread for this but its long gone now. Here goes the written proceedure:
Most Auto Ecus have a jumper at RP11 and have a blank space at RP12. Move RP11 to RP12 and you now have a Manual ECU. Here a closeup of the JDM Jumper configuration: Auto Jumpers
R96, C49 and R82 seem to be related to some Auto trans controls but can be left in place.
Some ECUs (Like the JDM P13-900) have resistors in both places. You can just remove both of them and replace RP12 with a jumper wire.
This applies to all ECUs that share the same board (P11, P12, P13, P14 and P39)
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Originally posted by plee3 View PostI remember creating a thread for this but its long gone now. Here goes the written proceedure:
Most Auto Ecus have a jumper at RP11 and have a blank space at RP12. Move RP11 to RP12 and you now have a Manual ECU. Here a closeup of the JDM Jumper configuration: Auto Jumpers
R96, C49 and R82 seem to be related to some Auto trans controls but can be left in place.
Some ECUs (Like the JDM P13-900) have resistors in both places. You can just remove both of them and replace RP12 with a jumper wire.
This applies to all ECUs that share the same board (P11, P12, P13, P14 and P39)“Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
― Jeremy Clarkson
Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755
Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144
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Originally posted by Mishakol129 View PostOriginally posted by plee3 View PostI remember creating a thread for this but its long gone now. Here goes the written proceedure:
Most Auto Ecus have a jumper at RP11 and have a blank space at RP12. Move RP11 to RP12 and you now have a Manual ECU. Here a closeup of the JDM Jumper configuration: Auto Jumpers
R96, C49 and R82 seem to be related to some Auto trans controls but can be left in place.
Some ECUs (Like the JDM P13-900) have resistors in both places. You can just remove both of them and replace RP12 with a jumper wire.
This applies to all ECUs that share the same board (P11, P12, P13, P14 and P39)
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Originally posted by GhostAccord View PostWhat you quoted is the write up...nothing else to it... remove a couple resistors and add a jumper.“Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
― Jeremy Clarkson
Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755
Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144
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Originally posted by Mishakol129 View PostAdd a jumper? Pics would help a lot. I am inexperienced in soldering too but I am sure I can do it.
If you want more in depth information about ECU modification you should join PGMFI.org. Lots of pictures and information there. Other than that, open up your ECU cover and find the related resistors and have at it.
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Originally posted by GhostAccord View PostWell then you should learn to solder and the basics of electronics first. There are a few videos on the net for that. If you have to ask what a jumper is, I wouldn't suggest modifying the ECU yourself.
If you want more in depth information about ECU modification you should join PGMFI.org. Lots of pictures and information there. Other than that, open up your ECU cover and find the related resistors and have at it.
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2969571
“Speed has never killed anyone. Suddenly becoming stationary, that's what gets you.”
― Jeremy Clarkson
Very first tear down and rebuild. vvv
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755"]http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=193755
Current Build, F23 block F22b dohc head:
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=203144
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A jumper is anything that will bridge or jump an open point or close a circuit with no resistance. There are 3 jumpers in that picture. Can you point them out?
On a side note...I prefer a solder sucker over that PITA copper wick/braid that they use in that thread. You need to use way more heat using it. This is my personal preference and it is something you will find out on your own once you start soldering.
My suggestion is to find an old mother board or burnt out ECU and practice removing and installing components. An adjustable soldering iron is a must.
Last edited by GhostAccord; 06-16-2013, 08:27 PM.
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