F20B or H23 or H23 VTEC

[J3wman]

I found 3 engines im considering swapping in here are links to em:

F20B from an Accord Type R
http://japanesestarmotor.com/jdm_engines/16/Honda_f20b/

DOHC VTEC Manual Version:

* 197 HP @ 7200RPM
* 145 TQ @ 6600RPM
* 147.10 kw
* 11.0:1 CR
* 85mm bore
* 88mm stroke
* 23mm wrist pin
* 145.5mm rods (f20b rod length = 145.425)
* 1.65 r/s ratio
* 55mm mains like h22a4 block


H23 Non VTEC
http://japanesestarmotor.com/jdm_eng...honda_prelude/

* Bore × Stroke: 87.0 × 95.0 mm (3.43 × 3.74 in)
* Displacement: 2,258 cc (137.8 cu in)
* Valve Configuration: DOHC, 16 valves
* Type: In-line 4 cylinder, aluminum block and head
* Compression ratio: 9.8:1
* Max power: 170 hp (127 kW; 170 hp)
* Max torque: 156 ft·lbf (212 N·m)
* Redline: 6500 rpm
* Engine Control System: Honda Systems PGM-FI with port fuel injection
* Valve Gear: belt-driven dual overhead cams, 4 valves per cylinder


H23 VTEC
http://japanesestarmotor.com/jdm_eng...da_h23a_v-tec/

In 1998 Honda produced a rare VTEC version of the H23 engine for use in Japan only. It is essentially an H23 block with an H22 head. The power is on par with a typical H22 engine but with a lower redline.

Specifications

* Bore × Stroke: {{

* 1998-2002 Accord Wagon AWD (CL2). It produces 200 PS (147 kW; 197 hp) & 163 ft·lbf (221 N·m) and comes with a "blue top".

[JoshM]

USDM H23 will be cheapest and easiest to find. If I had the funds/time, I'd go with the F20B.

[J3wman]

theyre all jdm import engines hence the links to their sale pages

[kouzie]

Go with the F20B unless you wanna go K/J

[almostJDM]

I found 3 engines im considering swapping in here are links to em:

F20B from an Accord SIRT
http://japanesestarmotor.com/jdm_engines/16/Honda_f20b/

DOHC VTEC Manual Version:

* 197 HP @ 7200RPM
* 145 TQ @ 6600RPM
* 147.10 kw
* 11.0:1 CR
* 85mm bore
* 88mm stroke
* 23mm wrist pin
* 145.5mm rods (f20b rod length = 145.425)
* 1.65 r/s ratio
* 55mm mains like h22a4 block


H23 Non VTEC
http://japanesestarmotor.com/jdm_eng...honda_prelude/

* Bore × Stroke: 87.0 × 95.0 mm (3.43 × 3.74 in)
* Displacement: 2,258 cc (137.8 cu in)
* Valve Configuration: DOHC, 16 valves
* Type: In-line 4 cylinder, aluminum block and head
* Compression ratio: 9.8:1
* Max power: 160hp (127 kW; 160 hp)
* Max torque: 156 ft·lbf (212 N·m)
* Redline: 6500 rpm
* Engine Control System: Honda Systems PGM-FI with port fuel injection
* Valve Gear: belt-driven dual overhead cams, 4 valves per cylinder
H23 VTEC
http://japanesestarmotor.com/jdm_eng...da_h23a_v-tec/

In 1998 Honda produced a rare VTEC version of the H23 engine for use in Japan only. It is essentially an H23 block with an H22 head. The power is on par with a typical H22 engine but with a lower redline.

Specifications

* Bore × Stroke: {{

* 1998-2002 Accord Wagon AWD (CL2). It produces 200 PS (147 kW; 197 hp) & 163 ft·lbf (221 N·m) and comes with a "blue top".

fixed a few things for ya, i think if you're looking for easiest and cheapest go H23 non-vtec

[J3wman]

k just submit ur vote on the poll otherwise ill forget

[benjerman112]

It might just be the blue VC but I just like the h23 vtec.

[almostJDM]

The f20b has a blue vc also so I think you just like he h23 just because haha

[benjerman112]

The f20b has a blue vc also so I think you just like he h23 just because haha

It does? well maybe your right. LOL

[jamaicancb3]

Ok, firstly i would like to know what are his plans for this motor or overall ( i dunno, whatever he chooses). Reason why i ask is because:

F20B: i think it would be best to get the right transmission for it. Other than that nothing wrong because its in a lighter chassis compared to the CF4/SIR-T in which it came (Oh, i give thanks to AlmostJDM for the correction because in my i head i was blowing up "ATR"= Europes top model that came with a h22a like the type-s, just was not called euro-r, or wasnt as near pefect as the euro-r, just missed the margin). Another downside is that powerband is too high IMO hence getting the right Tranny for it. Please Clear this for me; Isn't the vtec engagement point a bit higher also? not to my liking. i need max power from before, time is precious and i'm talking NOT about 1/4 mile, (overall racing) get to max power as quickly as possible and put it all down. But even then its still more than a good engine, i'm ain't disputing it

We all know about H23 vtec and H23 non vtec. To me i say H23 non-vtec and turbo between 8-10psi and be humble after that nothing more, work on strengthen what is already there, added power i believe isn't necessary after that unless you want to go hard (which i don't think you want to do, just decent power and quick to get up there and thats it). After a recent event i wouldn't say i've given up on the almighty "K", but damn, boost just took me over. Turbo at that which shocked me because i'm a supercharger fan.

[almostJDM]

yea vtec point is at 5800 i believe but i have mine at 5500 until i get it tuned, and having a short geared trans helps alot with the f20b so do good tires lol i cant floor it under 20 or i spin the tires probably because im using fuzion ZRI tires.

If you're doing auto x id get the F20B youll be able to keep it in or close to the power band better because it revs faster, but with road racing either h23 vtec or F20B with a h trans should do nicely.

[J3wman]

i do more drag racing. im thinking f20b but what tranny should i get?

long term goal is 500hp but i want to do it without using an h22 since everyone has one. yes i know its going to be harder but i perfer to do it that way. the whole reason i got a cb7 is to be different. i may go turbo later on but at the moment its going to be NA until i can get another daily driver to replace this. ive also been talking to Bisi Eziroha on facebook about his catalog of parts available for the f20b, im very serious about making this swap all it can be in the long run, im also questioning a corn fuel (e85) tune but i hate the smell of it and it eats away at your engine quicker.

[jamaicancb3]

Get the CL1 transmission. thats the T2W4. thats the shortest you can get for an F or H series. but when you do start boosting. your going to want longer gear ratios but like you said, Thats not for now. If you can't get the T2W4 get the one for the F20b. I don't remember the transmission code though, It's somewhere on the site, was covered couple months back (as a matter of fact the shortest geared ratio trannys were done in that thread so when you find that thread you can make your decision). If you can get it to run on e85 your damn lucky. Even though its been done by other people in different cars but i've never heard it done on a F20b. Here in Jamaica we hav 87 and 90 mixed with 10% ethanol (i believe its from sugar cane) and all engines of that caliber up run from the 87.

[J3wman]

just 87? dude thats ass gas here in MN we got 93 octane some places and even 110 at most stations if you go into the country, i used to run a gallon of 110 every few months so it cleans out the engine when id come back from my gfs place

[deevergote]

theyre all jdm import engines hence the links to their sale pages

Umm... no.

The Prelude H23A (non-VTEC, you'll find that it's the H23A1) was never sold in Japan. It is a USDM engine. The Japanese market got the F22B DOHC instead. Roughly the same specs performance wise, with a little less displacement (and different ECU, iron sleeves instead of FRM, etc...)

Rather than asking our opinion, try doing some research on your own. You clearly don't even know what you're looking at, aside from the specs this company shows you.