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    Diagnose my H22 woes.

    I've done some searching and need to know where to begin.

    5-speed, H22a with Auto Tension timing belt
    Spark Plugs and Wires checked. JDM P13 no CELs

    Here's the story.
    During the week, my cold idles were rough, jumping from 1700rpms to 2000rpms till warm and lowered down to 1k. nothing rough after that. I drive the car fine for the week. Yesterday I'm commuting on my way to school, and cruising at 60mph, in 5th gear I feel my car stutter.. kinda as if I was taking my foot off the gas then putting it back on.. so surges like I was out of fuel. I think nothing of it.

    Drive a little more and mild backfiring, I travel about 7 miles more in traffic with the backfiring ( stop and go 0-30mph). Coasting a good 30 mph in neutral my car dies. But I didn't know. So as I roll in 30, I pop it into 3rd gear, and notice my car is shut off.

    I turn on my emergency lights, turn off the ignition, then turn it back on.. car starts. I pop it into 2nd and hit the gas.. . My car starts shuttering and feels like its inhaling air instead of gasoline. Won't go past 3k rpms.. when i drove it to the side of the road it was jumping from 1500rpms to 3000rpms.

    Now the car sits fine at idle, but when I give it gas, it's as if no gass is getting in, or it's getting in in spurts. Dosen't rev passed 3000rpms and firesback. And when I try to rev it's choppy back an fourth revs.

    So i've come to 2 conclusions. MAP sensor is fuqed up, or my Timing belt has jumped teeth/auto tension has failed. Input please, I'm trying to get my cb7 back together before this weekend for the "national" meet in so-cal. Thanx
    Last edited by TheNextAZN; 01-26-2010, 08:26 PM.
    -:¦:-
    Originally posted by wed3k
    i rep cb7tuner all day, everyday. people say, "fuck y0 honda." and i say, "bitch, please."

    #2
    Check your injectors, vacuum lines (for cracks, breaks, etc), timing, compression. How did you check your plug wires? Just curious, because there can be microscopic cracks in the shielding that can cause an arc. How are your plugs, corroded, clean, etc? What about your distributor? Ignitor? Are you experiencing anything else that might be associated with this?

    Also, are you running the prelude alternator or the accord alternator?

    Comment


      #3
      check your injectors..and your fuel pump..i had a fuel issue with my h22 and was having the same problems..i was driving down the road and the car was on..itd give it gas but then it would do nothing..then the engine just stalled and left me stranded..

      make sure your injectors and fuel pump and fuses are good to go..

      also recheck your spark plugs and wires....

      Comment


        #4
        Sounds like the MAP to me, but as stated above it could be an array of things.. Have you checked out the coil?

        Comment


          #5
          i will go through and replace my spark plugs just to see what happens, I have not inspected each plug for microscopic cracks though. I want to get another MAP sensor to test out, but jy was closed by the time i got there. new ones go for abou $150.

          I will go through and test the other components. I am running an alternator for a lude.

          I appreciate all the help, and will be back with updates
          -:¦:-
          Originally posted by wed3k
          i rep cb7tuner all day, everyday. people say, "fuck y0 honda." and i say, "bitch, please."

          Comment


            #6
            ^^^ wires not plugs! hehe.

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by mj213 View Post
              ^^^ wires not plugs! hehe.
              lol.. got it!
              -:¦:-
              Originally posted by wed3k
              i rep cb7tuner all day, everyday. people say, "fuck y0 honda." and i say, "bitch, please."

              Comment


                #8
                Sounds distributor/timming related. Strange there is no CEL

                My swap thread
                Main relay proplems?--DIY

                Comment


                  #9
                  also check your coil...if you have a friend with a working dizzy...swap em and see what happens....evetnually the coil will take a shit and leave you stranded as well.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    i just want to note that the car fires every single time with no hesistation or extended cranks.

                    we just tested the MAP on my cb7 and my car runs fine. we're going to check fuel pressure, cam timing and ignition components. stay tuned.
                    I <3 G60.

                    0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by wed3k View Post
                      i just want to note that the car fires every single time with no hesistation or extended cranks.

                      we just tested the MAP on my cb7 and my car runs fine. we're going to check fuel pressure, cam timing and ignition components. stay tuned.
                      yes.. what wes said
                      -:¦:-
                      Originally posted by wed3k
                      i rep cb7tuner all day, everyday. people say, "fuck y0 honda." and i say, "bitch, please."

                      Comment


                        #12
                        we popped the cap and rotor off and the bolt that holds the rotor came off, wedged itself into one of the points and the cap. the rotor's bolt hole got oblong and was able to spin around the distributor shaft.

                        we changed the rotor and cap but i think i gave him an external h22 rotor and his is internal coil because of jdm? it starts and idles well but stutters hard around 2k.

                        cam timing is good
                        fuel pressure is good (32 and 40 with fpr vacuum disconnected)

                        have to recheck ign timing.
                        I <3 G60.

                        0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                        Comment


                          #13
                          we popped the cap and rotor off and the bolt that holds the rotor came off, wedged itself into one of the points and the cap. the rotor's bolt hole got oblong and was able to spin around the distributor shaft.

                          we changed the rotor and cap but i think i gave him an external h22 rotor and his is internal coil because of jdm? it starts and idles well but stutters hard around 2k.

                          cam timing is good
                          fuel pressure is good (32 and 40 with fpr vacuum disconnected)

                          have to recheck ign timing.
                          I <3 G60.

                          0.5mm Oversized Stainless valves and bronze guides available. Pm me please.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            you tested all the injectors? All the ohm readings are within spec? I had an issue w/ my H22 stuttering in the high RPMs it was due to the electrical contacts on my ignitor being loose, so i recrimped them and put dielectric grease on all the contacts and the problem immediately vanished.

                            So check the ohm readings and then open up your dizzy cap and make sure there's no corrosion or loose wires.

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                            Comment


                              #15
                              i was having the same kind of issues.
                              it was happening for 2 reasons.
                              1. because i had a wicked bad fuel leak at my rail.
                              and i couldn't figure out the other reason.

                              so i threw on the extra dizzy and it went away. lol
                              this was AFTER changing the coil in the old dist.

                              Comment

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