http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...ght=f22b1+swap
- The link above was helpful as shyt. Just wanted to add in my 2 cents w/ pics
- Went from F22A6 --> F22B(1) due to chipped block
- Used F22A6 tranny fits perfectly
- Just got done with the f22b1 swap, block says f22b cause JDM motor from tigerjapanese but prety much same motor.
- Using F22A6 ECU for now. Only mod for ECU was to add the 2 VTEC wires straight to ECU.
- 1st ever motor swap by myself. Not a single check engine light
- Used all CB accessories (P/S, alt., & AC) w/ CD pullys due to CD U/D pully having an extra teeth for belt and pullys.
- Timing can no longer be check by flywheel, so make sure U/D pully has timing marks.
- Used stock driveshaft
- Used original engine harness but a few male plugs had to be extended and/or modified to fit the female plugs on engine.
- Used MAP sensor on throttle body and not from black box on engine wall. Plug had to be cut then used a different plug that fits the MAP sensor on TB. At 1st didnt connect the wires up correctly so engine fired up and ran for 1 sec then died immediately. Didnt know what was causing this and took a few days to finally figure out that I had the wires backward. Then engine ran perfectly after correct changes were made.
Original CD5 driver side motor mount. Using the CD driver side mount would have been complicated.
Original CB7 driver side motor mount (before shot). Using CB7 mount required little modification compare to using CD5 mount. Using CB7 driver side mount however made the engine shift closer to the driver side engine bay by 1 inch or so. All other motor mounts from CB fit perfectly with CD motor.
CB7 mount (after). Had to grind down corner of motor mount because it was dangerously close to the timing belt.
Fuel filter (before). Had to relocate/modify because CD5 fuel line going into fuel rail was on driver side. CBs had fuel line on the passenger side of fuel rail.
Fuel filter (after)
Clearance to Intake Manifold was pretty close but works out safely.
Used CB7 alt. & P/S bracket so had to modify ghetto-fabolous dip-stick with with zip ties, my best friend.
Front cross-member had to be cut to fit CD5 header (MEGAN racing)
CD5 downpipe about 15 inches shorter than CB7. CDs have 2 bolt flanges while CBs have 3 bolt flanges. To the muffler shop. Running straight headers is loud as shyt.
My old dizzy was external coil, new dizzy internal. Jam 30 amp fuse between black & yellow wires on plug to covert from external --> internal coil. Make sure to black tape fuse or else it'll pop out when starting engine.
Had to modify ebay CB intake to not rub against dizzy. CD throttle cable bracket on right side of manifold, CB on left side of manifold. Im going to weld the CB bracket onto the end of the CD bracket while using the old cable.
MISSION COMPLETED!!!!!!
- The link above was helpful as shyt. Just wanted to add in my 2 cents w/ pics
- Went from F22A6 --> F22B(1) due to chipped block
- Used F22A6 tranny fits perfectly
- Just got done with the f22b1 swap, block says f22b cause JDM motor from tigerjapanese but prety much same motor.
- Using F22A6 ECU for now. Only mod for ECU was to add the 2 VTEC wires straight to ECU.
- 1st ever motor swap by myself. Not a single check engine light
- Used all CB accessories (P/S, alt., & AC) w/ CD pullys due to CD U/D pully having an extra teeth for belt and pullys.
- Timing can no longer be check by flywheel, so make sure U/D pully has timing marks.
- Used stock driveshaft
- Used original engine harness but a few male plugs had to be extended and/or modified to fit the female plugs on engine.
- Used MAP sensor on throttle body and not from black box on engine wall. Plug had to be cut then used a different plug that fits the MAP sensor on TB. At 1st didnt connect the wires up correctly so engine fired up and ran for 1 sec then died immediately. Didnt know what was causing this and took a few days to finally figure out that I had the wires backward. Then engine ran perfectly after correct changes were made.
Original CD5 driver side motor mount. Using the CD driver side mount would have been complicated.
Original CB7 driver side motor mount (before shot). Using CB7 mount required little modification compare to using CD5 mount. Using CB7 driver side mount however made the engine shift closer to the driver side engine bay by 1 inch or so. All other motor mounts from CB fit perfectly with CD motor.
CB7 mount (after). Had to grind down corner of motor mount because it was dangerously close to the timing belt.
Fuel filter (before). Had to relocate/modify because CD5 fuel line going into fuel rail was on driver side. CBs had fuel line on the passenger side of fuel rail.
Fuel filter (after)
Clearance to Intake Manifold was pretty close but works out safely.
Used CB7 alt. & P/S bracket so had to modify ghetto-fabolous dip-stick with with zip ties, my best friend.
Front cross-member had to be cut to fit CD5 header (MEGAN racing)
CD5 downpipe about 15 inches shorter than CB7. CDs have 2 bolt flanges while CBs have 3 bolt flanges. To the muffler shop. Running straight headers is loud as shyt.
My old dizzy was external coil, new dizzy internal. Jam 30 amp fuse between black & yellow wires on plug to covert from external --> internal coil. Make sure to black tape fuse or else it'll pop out when starting engine.
Had to modify ebay CB intake to not rub against dizzy. CD throttle cable bracket on right side of manifold, CB on left side of manifold. Im going to weld the CB bracket onto the end of the CD bracket while using the old cable.
MISSION COMPLETED!!!!!!
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