wat oil is good 4 the cb7?

[drift878]

wat oil is good 4 the cb7? wat oil would YOU USE?

[mndude07]

Full synthetic, more importantly, make sure you keep it changed at regular intervals so the oil is always clean.

[ExplodingCake]

I use regular 5-30 since mile 0.

[thatwhiteguy]

ive always used the 5w-30, but keeping it clean is very important, i change at 2500-3000miles

[southsidecb7z]

i use 10w-30....is this not good?

[batever]

For standard (nonsynthetic) oil, 10w-30 is good, and 5W-30 is even better.

I wouldn't bother switching the oil unless you're doing an oil change though. Unless maybe you live where it's cold and you want to baby your car. Pretty much any oil is like molasses in the winter though before it warms up.

The reason 5W-30 is better

10W-30 and 5W-30 have the same viscosity at running temperature (the "30" part of the designation ) and are good for a Honda driven on the road. I don't know the actual viscosity figure for the 30 oils at running temp off the top of my head, but running temperature is a little bit over 300F for the oil.

the difference between the two is the "10W" and "5W" part of the designation "10W-30/5W-30." 10W and 5W here designate viscosity when at ambient temperature (70 degrees I believe but I could be off by 10 or 20 degrees). The 5W is thinner at ambient temperature than the 10W. Thinner at startup is better for your engine, because it means that it will take less time for the oil to heat up and thin and be able to circulate through the engine. So next time you change you might want to go to 5W-30. (Most engine wear happens at startup, when oil is either too thick to flow freely through the engine, compared to running temperature, when the oil is at the right thinness to freely flow and float the metal surfaces in the engine apart).

Some synthetics are 0W-30 or 40 which would be even better but they also cost a lot more, like $8 per quart for full synthetic Amsoil. (Synthetics have some other desirable qualities like greater stability than conventional oil, greater resistance to heat, etc etc but for me it's not worth the extra expense. If I drove my car a lot harder I would feel differently though). Of course, the higher cost is partly compensated by the fact that you can leave a full synthetic like that in your car for much longer than you can leave a conventional oil in for a number of reasons. (A fact that some will disagree with but which seems clear to me). But really, I don't think you need to bother with a synthetic as these Accord engines will run like a top for 300-400K miles on normal oil if you take care of them and you aren't running them up to high rpms all the time. If you take them on a track and run them at 4000 rpm for extended periods/continuously, that's another matter and you would use a different oil for that.

If you felt like going to a less expensive synthetic than, say, Amsoil, Mobil one is a part-syntheticI believe and I think they have a 0W-30. I personally have never put such a fancy oil in my car, though others do.

check out the "must read" oil thread that got posted the last few days:

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showpost...49&postcount=1

It pointed out some things I knew, some I didn't and was definitely worth the read. There's no way I could have written all of that stuff I just wrote unless I had just read that article! Also, the Amsoil site had some good articles that I read a few years ago when I was thinking about putting an external filter on the car (which I haven't done). I did buy one of their reusable oil and foam air filters and feel that it was totally worth the cash (saved me $$ in the end and I feel it gave me as good air filtration as stock but with the benefit of more airflow)

[blizzard335]

i'm running 15W-30

but we dont have cold temperatures here.

[deevergote]

wat duz honduh say shud b 4 da cb7 dat shud be wat u put in dere


drift878, please TRY to make your postwhoring a little less obvious. I know getting to 30 posts is hard, but reading a bunch of one-line questions in ghettospeak, one after another, without any active participation in the ensuing conversation, draws the attention of the staff here... and the staff is mean. They'll let you get to 29 posts, and then knock you back to 0.

[batever]

i'm running 15W-30

but we dont have cold temperatures here.

With all due respect, my understanding is that the fact that it's hot in malaysia doesn't mean you should be running 15W-30 as opposed to 5W-30.

unless it's 200 deg F in the morning in mayalsia you're still better off with "5W" than 15W. The 15W is much thicker at startup temperature than the 5W, which is not as good for the engine. Once the "30" oils heat up to running temp, they are all the same and run at a really great viscosity for the engine. But when you start the car from cold (I'm talking like less than 100F here, The 15W will take longer to thin to the ideal running viscosity, compared to the 5W. Again, 0W synthetic is even better if you want to spring for it.

I would consider switching to the 5W with your next oil change if you are currently using 15W.

Confusion stems from the confusing way oils are described with numbers on the can. There are single grade designations ("30 weight oil, 40 weight oil"), then there are the multigrade designations such as the familar 5w-30, 10w30, etc.

The second part of the multgrade designation, the "30" in "5W-30", is similar to a single grade designation in that it describes viscosity properties at running temp, again around 200 def F. Hence, at running temperature, 5w-30, 10w-30, and 15w-30 are all the same viscosity and work great in our engines.

The first part of the multigrade designation, the "W" part, is related to the oil's viscosity at lower temperatures, and in this case, the lower the number (i.e, 5W in preference to 10W, 0W in preference to 5W) the better because there is no oil on the planet that has both an ideal low temperature viscosity and an ideal high temperature viscosity. Our oils are a tradeoff, aiming to give ideal viscosity at running temperature, since that's the temp. the engine is running most of the time., and secondarily to have the viscosity as close to ideal as possible when the engine starts from cold.

Many synthetics are 0w-** oils and are even better than 5w conventional oil from the point of view of cold startup.

[Jon]

I've been running Amsoil full synthetic. I think it's well worth the money. I don't put enough miles on it to change it by mileage, so I've been doing it once a year. Definitely seems to help keep the engine running top notch.

[sunburn]

I've been running Amsoil full synthetic. I think it's well worth the money. I don't put enough miles on it to change it by mileage, so I've been doing it once a year. Definitely seems to help keep the engine running top notch.

I run amsoil syntheic in my bike , good stuf!

i run valvoline 5w20 in all my cars

[lonski]

Since I changed my engine, I opted to go full synthetic Mobil 1 5W-30.

[MadSpleen85]

wat duz honduh say shud b 4 da cb7 dat shud be wat u put in dere

dood u gotz allz anzwerz!!1!

lol.

There are only at least 50 threads about this topic.

Valvoline High Mileage Full Synthetic 5w-20 here..

[EJX_Michael]

Valvoline maxlife 5w-30

good stuff

[4GAccordH22]

Royal Purple 5W30 in my H22A1. I actually noticed a very slight power increase over dino oil and easier starting. But either way, go with 5W30.