Hi everyone! Today I borrowed a ball joint press kit from Autozone. Once I got home, I found out that there are no instructions included. Can anyone please explain how to use the ball joint press tool? Pleaaasse!! This tool is the one that look like a C clamp.
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How to use Ball joint press kit
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You're talking about getting out the lower ball joint? That Autozone tool won't work. The knuckle interferes with the tool, not to mention there's no way that thing is gonna provide enough force to pop it out.
If you want to do it yourself take the knuckle off the car, turn it upside down and bash the ball joint out with a hammer. Putting the new one in is a little more delicate.
Or take the whole thing to a Honda dealer.Metal Metal and more Metal!!!
How much does your wheel/tire combo weigh? Post here!
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"I was hoping the Wolverine would finger one of those Japanese girls and then extend a claw into her b hole just for fun, BUT that never happened and I was extremely unsatisfied with the movie because of it." -Macaqueistrong
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dont hassle with those dam ball joint claw remover.. They are crap, I try so many time on my hondas and cant get them to work.. Besides when u get it to grip and not slip off after u put some pressure on it it pops right off, take the arme off and take it to a shop to press it out or somthing like that, but those claws dont work on our hondas, maybe on domestics, but surely not hondas!
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Originally posted by uslspctYou're talking about getting out the lower ball joint? That Autozone tool won't work. The knuckle interferes with the tool, not to mention there's no way that thing is gonna provide enough force to pop it out.
If you want to do it yourself take the knuckle off the car, turn it upside down and bash the ball joint out with a hammer. Putting the new one in is a little more delicate.
Or take the whole thing to a Honda dealer.Sky rockets in flight..... afternoon deeeelight!!
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Originally posted by blackcb7well u basically use one of the larger cups i guess u can call them, and put it on the side u want to the ball joint to come out, must be larger than the bushind hole(where the bushing sits, use the other cup,that fits right over the ball joint, the basically turn to push it outSky rockets in flight..... afternoon deeeelight!!
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There's a much easier (and cheaper) alternative for popping the LBJ. I tried the claw puller and a pickle fork only to get pissed off for a while. I finally found something on (I think) Honda-tech detailing a rather easy way to get the ball joints loose and it works like a charm.
I'll see if I can find it again, and if not, I'll take a couple pics of mine later to show you what I'm talking about.1993 Prelude S
F22A1
custom'ish turbo setup
180 whp/217 ft-lbs super hot, super humid, super rich, boost falling off at 8psi
18psi boost spike = BOOM!!!!!
currently being rebuilt
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I know I've written this before somewhere on this forum. Once you have the system, I can replace BOTH lower joints (after knuckle has been removed already) in like 30 minutes. Removing knuckles takes me about 15-20 minutes a side (i.e. jacking up car, removing removing wheel, etc.).
- remove knuckle assembly (with hub/rotor assy still installed) from car WITHOUT using pickle fork on the good joints and damaging the boots, you can do this buy using a heavy hammer to break joints loose
- hit each joint AT the bore with a heavy hammer about 5-8 times should break the joint loose and it will pop out, don't hit the boot!
- cut boot off bad lower joint
- remove snap-ring
- position knuckle with threaded end of joint pointing straight up
- find tubing/socket that goes over threaded end and sits decent on the circular base of joint
- use heavy hammer/sledge to knock joint out of knuckle bore
- clean bore
- position knuckle assembly in vise to do next operation (easier)
- install new joint using a cup/pusher method and large C-clamp (cup the threaded end, push on the flat end of joint utilizing the C-clamp to do both operations...so one one side of C-clamp you have a cup & other the pusher)
- I use impact to drive the C-clamp and it presses in the new joint, until it's seated all the way
- install new snap-ring
- reinstall in vehicle
lower joint castle nut 40 lb-ft
upper & outer tie rod joint castle nuts 32 lb-ftLast edited by HondaFan81; 10-11-2006, 12:31 PM.
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i got them out of my integra with a 14mm deep socket and a hammer. didn't take long at all. I don't think the accord is much different, but Scott said you can ruin the wheel bearing that way, so there is a chance it is different, since i couldn't see any way to hurt the bearing on the teg.
Owner of https://theclunkerjunker.com
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Originally posted by mulletThere's a much easier (and cheaper) alternative for popping the LBJ. I tried the claw puller and a pickle fork only to get pissed off for a while. I finally found something on (I think) Honda-tech detailing a rather easy way to get the ball joints loose and it works like a charm.
I'll see if I can find it again, and if not, I'll take a couple pics of mine later to show you what I'm talking about.
Details:
** NOTE: Take your time, take good SOLID hits NOT hitting the boot. I use my mini sledge 5 lb. **
- hit lower joint AT the lower control arm bore....hit lower control arm, on side of bore
- hit outer tie rod joint AT the knuckle bore...hit knuckle bore, on side where outer tie rod goes into
- hit upper joint AT the knuckle bore....hit knuckle bore, on side where the upper arm joint goes intoLast edited by HondaFan81; 10-11-2006, 12:34 PM.
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Originally posted by Accord R33i got them out of my integra with a 14mm deep socket and a hammer. didn't take long at all. I don't think the accord is much different, but Scott said you can ruin the wheel bearing that way, so there is a chance it is different, since i couldn't see any way to hurt the bearing on the teg.
If you all lived near me, I'd be making bank doing suspension work for you all. I've restored 6 cb7 suspensions (2 mine, 4 are owned by my family) and a 5th gen for a friend. Maybe I should start a "send me your knuckle assy and I'll press in lower ball joint" service..hahaha...right, too much money spent on shipping them large, heavy things.
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ok so you people are given this guy the hard ways to do things
get yourself a propane tourch put the new ball joints in the freezer while your removingthe old ones
to remove the old ones heat the area around the ball joint hit it with a hammer like 3 times a sledge after removing the old snapring
while its still warm put the new balljoint in and tap it with a ballpein hammer
take like 20 minutes a side
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Cisco, I've probably read half a dozen threads here in the last year concerning LBJ removal. And kind of like this one, at least 2 or 3 various methods will get posted. It's sort of like removing front rotors; everyone has their favorite method or "what works best/easiest."
I know what the parts mentioned look like obviously, but your discussion will have me printing this thread and reading it while looking at the car --- I'm having trouble visualizing some of it.
In particular, when you say, "hit each joint AT the bore ... don't hit the boot" are you saying to hit upwards on the bottom (flat) side --- opposite the threaded end? If so I think I see what you mean about it disrupting the geometry and therefore shaking it loose, even though what you're doing is actually hammering in the direction opposite that the ball joint will eventually come out.
^^^ Hopefully I didn't just get that all wrong? Thanks.
And yes, if I lived in MI ...>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>><<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
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Originally posted by HF22Tok so you people are given this guy the hard ways to do things
get yourself a propane tourch put the new ball joints in the freezer while your removingthe old ones
to remove the old ones heat the area around the ball joint hit it with a hammer like 3 times a sledge after removing the old snapring
while its still warm put the new balljoint in and tap it with a ballpein hammer
take like 20 minutes a side
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Originally posted by deckedaCisco, I've probably read half a dozen threads here in the last year concerning LBJ removal. And kind of like this one, at least 2 or 3 various methods will get posted. It's sort of like removing front rotors; everyone has their favorite method or "what works best/easiest."
I know what the parts mentioned look like obviously, but your discussion will have me printing this thread and reading it while looking at the car --- I'm having trouble visualizing some of it.
In particular, when you say, "hit each joint AT the bore ... don't hit the boot" are you saying to hit upwards on the bottom (flat) side --- opposite the threaded end? If so I think I see what you mean about it disrupting the geometry and therefore shaking it loose, even though what you're doing is actually hammering in the direction opposite that the ball joint will eventually come out.
^^^ Hopefully I didn't just get that all wrong? Thanks.
And yes, if I lived in MI ...
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