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Car has power but won start, no click, no crank. H22

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    Car has power but won start, no click, no crank. H22

    Hey guys,

    Looking for some help trouble shooting an issue that just popped up with my car. It is a 93 EX with an H22/M2B4, auto to manual swap. Ran perfect since we did the swap in 2011.

    I havent been driving the car much and my battery drained itself to the point of not holding a charge. I had put a charger on it a few times and used the "engine start" mode and got it running, but it wouldnt hold a good charge. So I went out yesterday and bought a brand new battery. Installed it (relocated to trunk in 2011) and couldnt get the car to start. Radio, Dash lights, fuel pump, etc. all come on. 3rd turn of the key and I get nothing except a small pop through the speakers. No click from anywhere else.

    I replaced both battery terminals and used dielectric grease. Cleaned my main battery ground and used the grease. Cleaned my tranny/chassis ground and used the grease. Cleaned my motor mount/valve cover ground and used the grease. Tapped the starter, no change. Battery fuse is good. Ignition fuse is good. ECU fuse is good. Starter signal fuse is good.

    I did just drop my steering column to the floor and swap my dash and the car fired up before that. Wondering if I may have shook something loose.

    I don't have a neutral safety switch since the car was auto. I will be checking the wiring around where the auto shifter was that I had to jump to get the car started when we did the swap.

    Any ideas? Thanks in advance
    Last edited by 93accordexcoupe; 06-07-2016, 12:47 PM.

    #2
    Originally posted by 93accordexcoupe View Post
    Hey guys,

    Looking for some help trouble shooting an issue that just popped up with my car. It is a 93 EX with an H22/M2B4, auto to manual swap. Ran perfect since we did the swap in 2011.

    I havent been driving the car much and my battery drained itself to the point of not holding a charge. I had put a charger on it a few times and used the "engine start" mode and got it running, but it wouldnt hold a good charge. So I went out yesterday and bought a brand new battery. Installed it (relocated to trunk in 2011) and couldnt get the car to start. Radio, Dash lights, fuel pump, etc. all come on. 3rd turn of the key and I get nothing except a small pop through the speakers. No click from anywhere else.

    I replaced both battery terminals and used dielectric grease. Cleaned my main battery ground and used the grease. Cleaned my tranny/chassis ground and used the grease. Cleaned my motor mount/valve cover ground and used the grease. Tapped the starter, no change. Battery fuse is good. Ignition fuse is good. ECU fuse is good. Starter signal fuse is good.

    I did just drop my steering column to the floor and swap my dash and the car fired up before that. Wondering if I may have shook something loose.

    I don't have a neutral safety switch since the car was auto. I will be checking the wiring around where the auto shifter was that I had to jump to get the car started when we did the swap.

    Any ideas? Thanks in advance
    Kinda sounds similar to the when I had a bad starter, I was able to get it to turn over once after tapping it, that's when I knew it was bad. If you're stumped, take the starter out and take it to a auto parts store with a starter tester, I had them confirm mine was dead before I replaced it.
    I'm faster then a prius

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      #3
      Thanks for the reply. I'll be doing that next.

      Comment


        #4
        did you try jumping the starter to eliminate the solenoid? just take your long handle screw driver and jump the two bolts on the side of the starter (make sure cars in neutral)

        Comment


          #5
          Havent tried that yet. I'll be testing for power on the starter tonight so I'll give that a shot.

          I did have to wire up a jumper neutral safety switch when I did my 5 speed swap. I tucked that back behind where the radio goes. Then swapped my dash. I'm thinking I shook that loose. Just need to get back there and check it all out.

          The one weird issue is that when I turn to the 3rd click in the tumbler, I get 2 pops about a second apart from each other from the rear speakers.

          Comment


            #6
            yea kinda like its a ground issue. but it seems that you have addressed all the grounds. deff re check that neutrual one though

            Comment


              #7
              Just checked the neutral safety switch jumper. All intact and wired right. Shook it all over while holding the key in start, nothing. It's pointing towards ignition switch or starter. Just need to test for power at each tonight.

              Comment


                #8
                How is the battery wire connected i had a problem when i did my swap to the trunk i attached the old wire to the new wire and it got really corroded and would have all the lights, click and lose all power. I just redid the connection and works great now id check that.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I ran a brand new 0 gauge cable. I have 12v at the starter all the time. 0v at the starter solenoid when i turn the key to start. Something is stopping the power from making it to the solenoid. I am leaning towards ignition switch only because I can't think of anything else to check.

                  Any easy way to check the ignition switch?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Bypass it with a wire from the ignition to the solenoid. Dont want to be an ass but have you checked the fuses?

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by Red4doorAccord View Post
                      Bypass it with a wire from the ignition to the solenoid. Dont want to be an ass but have you checked the fuses?
                      I'd like to find the issue instead of just bypassing it.

                      All the fuses are good.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Is the ignition plug plugged into the fuse panel area?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          It is. I am going to check for power while cranking at the harness plugged into the fuse box.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by 93accordexcoupe View Post
                            I'd like to find the issue instead of just bypassing it.

                            All the fuses are good.
                            What he is saying is that you should jump the starter motor with a jumper wire from the battery to bypass the switch to check and see if its the starter motor or not.

                            Now to test the switch you will need a multi-meter and will need to check continuity on the switch wire leads and see if the switch is functional.
                            I will need to pull up a factory service manual in order to get you the correct ohm readings as well but that will some time, but just checking continuity to see if there's working connection is 90% of the battle.

                            To get to the switch for testing you will need to pull off the steering column covers around the ignition switch and key barrel. Look at the back side of the key barrel and you will see 3 wires running too a plastic disc thing that's mounted to the barrel. Test the lead ends on the disc since that the actual switch its self.


                            Sold too: Grumpys93, '93CB7Ex, Bunta, prodh22accord, SSMAccord, fleetw00d

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by baracuda View Post
                              What he is saying is that you should jump the starter motor with a jumper wire from the battery to bypass the switch to check and see if its the starter motor or not.

                              Now to test the switch you will need a multi-meter and will need to check continuity on the switch wire leads and see if the switch is functional.
                              I will need to pull up a factory service manual in order to get you the correct ohm readings as well but that will some time, but just checking continuity to see if there's working connection is 90% of the battle.

                              To get to the switch for testing you will need to pull off the steering column covers around the ignition switch and key barrel. Look at the back side of the key barrel and you will see 3 wires running too a plastic disc thing that's mounted to the barrel. Test the lead ends on the disc since that the actual switch its self.
                              I could test the starter/solenoid with a jumper but if I am not getting power to the solenoid to begin with, then it seems redundant.

                              I'll check power at the ignition switch and where the harness plugs into the fuse box.

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