Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

rustyaccord : 1975 Kohler K321AQS drift trike

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    rustyaccord : 1975 Kohler K321AQS drift trike

    I suppose this could count as vehicle so here goes. I was not one of the lucky kids in my neighborhood to have a big wheel while growing up but I always wanted one. I decided to start building a drift trike which, for those of you who don't know what it is, is an adult sized big wheel and is usually motorized. So first things first I had to find an engine and lucky for me, my grandpa had a blown Kohler K321AQS. I had always thought that Kohler made some pretty good quality engines and judging by the price of some of the parts I'm looking at, they are pretty high end. I believe the engine is out of a 1975 John Deere 214 or 314 riding mower and has definitely seen better days.

    Here's how it all started:


    It was being used on a log splitter that my grandpa bought for parts. As far as I know, it has been sitting outside for the last 20 or so years so it was covered in rust and had grass and water inside the shroud and fins on the cylinder.

    Here's the shroud with a fresh coat of paint. I sanded as much rust off as I could then used a rust inhibiting primer for what was left behind. It's not the best finish but I'm happy with it.




    Here's the old stickers for comparison:







    I found the stickers on a website called redoyourhorse.com. They make stickers for kohler, briggs, and a variety of lawn/garden tractors as well as custom orders. The stickers themselves are pretty hefty and stick down to the curved surfaces very well. I think they are also laminated so the lettering won't rub off over time.

    I spent all of last weekend stripping the rest of the engine down and was nervous about what I was going to find. There was water on the dipstick so I figured the internals were rusted beyond saving but I was pleasantly surprised. There was only about a tablespoon of water at the bottom of the oil pan and no rust at all in the crankcase. The previous owner said they quit using this engine because it burned too much oil.





    Upon removing the head, the entire combustion chamber was completely covered in black carbon sludge. It took a putty knife, a razor blade, and a wire brush with probably a whole can of carb cleaner to get it mostly clean. The piston that came out of it is a +0.010" which means the engine has been rebuilt before probably more than once.



    I assume the stator is still operational. I plan on sanding the outer surface and cleaning it up a little more.


    I assume some carbon flaked off and ground out the side of the piston but it could have been anything really.



    I cleaned all the external parts using a gallon jug of super clean mixed with about a gallon or two of water. I spent a couple hours scrubbing off excess sludge and some rust with a detail brush and a razor scraper. Of course not everything can go smoothly, especially if it's engine related, so after all that time cleaning I discovered a crack...


    But it's okay because I have a fresh block coming in the mail. This one is a K321S out of an Ariens S-14G tractor. It uses a different style of oil pan and contains balance gears which I'm going to remove anyway.



    This will be a slow going project as I don't have garage space at home so I will most likely be building this contraption in my grandpa's shop. I expect it should all be done in a couple years if not sooner.
    Thanks for reading! Feedback and responses are welcome!

    #2
    I like this. Frame?

    Comment


      #3
      I've thought about some different frame designs but I don't have anything drawn up yet. I will eventually have a 40 series torque converter running to a live axle. I'm debating on gokart slicks on the back or some good turf tires.

      Comment


        #4
        Hell yea. I'm on my 4th go kart build from the frame up. Thats a really interesting engine. I've just been using the Harbor Freight 212cc's. $125 with a year warranty.

        Comment


          #5
          I have been wanting to build a go kart for the last ten years or so but each idea I've had eventually fizzled out. The engine kind of fell into my lap so i figured I'd use it. It's definitely unique, and HEAVY, the block alone weighs about 45 pounds. But you don't see a 14 horsepower go kart with an electric starter every day that's for sure.

          With regards to the frame plan, my grandpa picked up a bunch of 1" square tubing which I'm thinking might work for the rear part of the frame... Should I go 2"? Or angle iron? What do you guys think?

          Comment


            #6
            1" should work unless you have any long spans. Just dont make it too low because it will bottom out when it flexes, which it will do. My kart is 1" round tubing and it scrapes everywhere when it flexes.

            Comment


              #7
              I was thinking about 3 - 4" of ground clearance would be plenty. I also want to be sure the back wheels are far enough apart that I won't tip while turning. I will try and get some plans drawn up in AutoCAD and share for some feedback.

              Comment


                #8
                The exhaust pipe nub was rusted into the block and wouldn't budge. I used a torch and some wax-based bicycle chain lube. It took two cycles of heat and oil but it broke loose. Now I need to find somebody with a pipe tap so I can clean the threads out.







                I also did a minor port and polish. I just cleaned up the extra material from casting and smoothed out the ports a little bit. It looks pretty crappy to be honest but I'm sure it's better than it was. Now I just need to take it to the machine shop...

                And I know it's probably going to be restrictive but it was less than $10 at ACE hardware and the old muffler was bulky and rusted out.

                Last edited by rustyaccord; 03-27-2016, 06:40 PM.

                Comment


                  #9
                  I love this thread. Please continue. Ty.
                  sold! But here's my build thread for those interested.

                  http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=206864

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Old Kohlers are so cool. I had one similar to yours. It was on a late 60's Sears garden tractor. I never did much with it. Didn't have a deck. Had a high and a low in the rear end and 3 or 4 forward gears. Would pull a full length rail road tie at a little above an idle. I can already tell by your quality of work that this will turn out pretty slick. I'm staying tuned for sure.

                    And props for using the old Kohler.




                    Comment


                      #11
                      Took the block in for machining today. The guy didn't seem too enthused about doing a single cylinder but I've heard good things about his quality of work. So now it's a waiting game until I hear back about what size piston and rings I need to order.

                      Comment


                        #12
                        New parts! There's something about receiving parts in the mail... It doesn't seem to matter what they're for, it's always exciting. I'm still waiting on a dipstick tube and oil pan to fit the replacement block. They should be here tomorrow.

                        I went ahead and just got a new carb. The rebuild kit goes for around $25 and I paid $35 for the new carb. The only thing I needed to do was switch the choke shaft from the old carb since the lever is different.


                        Comment


                          #13
                          I got the block back from the machine shop with a .010" over hone and am in the process of getting it all back together. I'm still waiting on a new rod which should be delivered today in which case I'll get some more pics up tonight or tomorrow. I still need new points and condenser, breather tube, spark plug wire, and maybe a stator and coil, I'm not sure if the originals are still any good.



                          The old valves and seats weren't in too bad of condition so I figured a lap job would suffice.







                          I'm replacing the head bolts with grade 8 bolts I got at ACE. The old ones are 40 years old and seem okay but I'm sure there's some level of stretch and fatigue in them plus the new ones are so shiny and nice lookin! I might get to painting the block and pan today if the wind isn't too bad. It seems like the nicer the weather gets here in Nebraska, the worse the wind is. It's a lose - lose situation.

                          An interesting bit about the crank seals: There's no shoulder in either the block or the bearing plate to drive the seals up against which leads to an interesting game of surgical experimentation using a small drift punch, hammer, and dial calipers to make sure the seal is square. The main trick is to not drive the seal too far into either housing or it will pop into the area behind the bearings. Then you have to completely disassemble the engine and press out the bearings to get the seal out and try again. Luckily I think I got them in the right place the first time around so I'll find out when I get the engine started.

                          Update:
                          Worked on this thing all afternoon and evening and now all I have to do is get some oil, fuel lines, and any other odds and ends to get the electrical system working and it should be ready for break-in!













                          I'll have to figure out how to post up a vid so you guys can hear/see it run.

                          Another Update:

                          Well I got the engine running last week and, surprisingly, the entire ignition system works great considering it's been out in the elements for the last 20 years. My dad was helping me with break-in and carb tuning and probably to both of our stupidity, he was holding the governor lever open to tune the main jet...

                          BOOM! Aluminum connecting rod everywhere...


                          What a way to end the weekend right?
                          I cleaned the crank journal up by soaking it in some hydrochloric acid. For those of you who haven't taken Chemistry, HCl dissolves aluminum (and rust I found out) and produces a solution of Aluminum Chloride and Hydrogen gas which, by the way, smells terrible even in a well ventilated area.




                          After the soak, I polished the journal with some 1000 grit sandpaper. It looks pretty good but after micing it, I discovered it's out of round enough and just a little too small in diameter so back to the machine shop I go to get the journal turned .010" under. What a headache.
                          Last edited by rustyaccord; 07-25-2016, 01:36 PM.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            So for the frame... I've been giving a lot of thought on what I want to do. A clone frame of what SFD Industries uses for their trikes seems like the best idea. Of course it will be massaged a bit to fit that monster kohler on the back.

                            Here's a link:
                            http://www.sfdindustries.com/product...ts/Frame-Kits/

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I just downloaded autodesk inventor on my computer so I will be able to start putting together a scale drawing of the frame once I get some measurements for engine clearance and stuff like that. Not much has happened besides that. I still need to take the crank in to be turned so the engine still needs a lot of work to get it running again.

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X