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Replacing Rear Trailing Arm and Lower Control arms. Is it Str8tForward

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    Replacing Rear Trailing Arm and Lower Control arms. Is it Str8tForward

    Is replacing the rear trailing arm and the lower control arms pretty str8t forward if nothing is rusted shut? I am about to do my rear suspension one side at a time and one item at a time. Trailing arm first then both lower control arms at same time. Anything i should keep mind of? Is the lower control arms easier? I might try to do those first.
    Last edited by zedjr10; 04-08-2019, 05:00 PM.

    #2
    Remind me, EX or LX? If EX, be careful with the ABS sensor wires that run in the rear lower control arm. The bolts you are most likely to have problems with are the pivot bolts for the control arms, particularly the adjustable one on the forward arm. Are your trailing arms bad? Are you replacing the trailing arm and knuckle together? If you're disturbing the brake hoses, this would be a good opportunity to replace/upgrade those.

    You should have it aligned afterward.
    90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
    08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
      Remind me, EX or LX? If EX, be careful with the ABS sensor wires that run in the rear lower control arm. The bolts you are most likely to have problems with are the pivot bolts for the control arms, particularly the adjustable one on the forward arm. Are your trailing arms bad? Are you replacing the trailing arm and knuckle together? If you're disturbing the brake hoses, this would be a good opportunity to replace/upgrade those.

      You should have it aligned afterward.
      It is EX. One trailing arm is cracked and i can feel the rear is a little loose. 27 years old also. I am not replacing the knuckle. Should I? I do want that shock tower/knuckle bushing replaced but i figured I would pay a shop to do that later on. Have already replaced the brake hoses with stainless steel. I was looking and realize the rear sway bar link is really a bushing in a steel sleeve sort of. I got the bushing kit. Does the bushing come out easy or should i just get the sleeve with bushing already in it?

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by zedjr10 View Post
        It is EX. One trailing arm is cracked and i can feel the rear is a little loose. 27 years old also. I am not replacing the knuckle. Should I? I do want that shock tower/knuckle bushing replaced but i figured I would pay a shop to do that later on. Have already replaced the brake hoses with stainless steel. I was looking and realize the rear sway bar link is really a bushing in a steel sleeve sort of. I got the bushing kit. Does the bushing come out easy or should i just get the sleeve with bushing already in it?
        My .02

        Get the sleeve with bushing

        Way easier

        Then you can just cut the old one with a hack saw/cold chisel and it’ll come out easy. Little sand paper and heat and the new one will tap in pretty easily

        Pressing the bushing into the sleeve is a damn nightmare sometimes
        Originally posted by wed3k
        im a douchebag to people and i don't even own a lambo. whats your point? we, douchbags, come in all sorts of shapes and colours.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by toycar View Post
          My .02

          Get the sleeve with bushing

          Way easier
          Am ordering a set tonight. Is the lower arms and trailing arm pretty str8t forward to replace. Just unbolt , remove and replace while supporting the wheel hub with a jack?

          Comment


            #6
            The knuckle should just hang from the shock. Just a lot of wrenching to swap everything over. If you drop the whole cross member and control arms together, you will probably have to drop the exhaust (just from the rubber hangers, no need to disconnect).

            I just did the cross member and control arms on my 92 EX, the eccentric on one side was seized.
            90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
            08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
              The knuckle should just hang from the shock. Just a lot of wrenching to swap everything over. If you drop the whole cross member and control arms together, you will probably have to drop the exhaust (just from the rubber hangers, no need to disconnect).

              I just did the cross member and control arms on my 92 EX, the eccentric on one side was seized.
              I wasn't on planning dropping the cross member. Does this make it a lot easier? My Honda shop manual doesn't show this procedure. Will have to look in my chilton and haynes books. I was hoping it was as simple as take tire off, take bolts out, slide out, put in new arm. I seen some videos from newer models where it looks somewhat harder. It looked pretty easy from under the car looking at it today.

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                #8
                Technically it isn't that hard of a job. The problem is that usually a few of the bolts have rusted themselves into the sleeves of the bushing. Pretty much making the removal of the bolt impossible. Then you have to resort to cutting it out. Usually with a hacksaw, and not in the best of conditions. If the whole rear sub frame comes out then you can just flip it upside down and work at your own leisure.
                MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by Rilas View Post
                  Technically it isn't that hard of a job. The problem is that usually a few of the bolts have rusted themselves into the sleeves of the bushing. Pretty much making the removal of the bolt impossible. Then you have to resort to cutting it out. Usually with a hacksaw, and not in the best of conditions. If the whole rear sub frame comes out then you can just flip it upside down and work at your own leisure.
                  This


                  This makes everything a breeze. If you consider the effort of “the fight” when you are on your back, knees etc vs just biting the bullet and pulling it from square one and working upright on a bench with easy accessibility to everything it is 1,000 times easier


                  Time well spent and likely to save you time overall


                  Certainly saves some frustration
                  Originally posted by wed3k
                  im a douchebag to people and i don't even own a lambo. whats your point? we, douchbags, come in all sorts of shapes and colours.

                  Comment


                    #10
                    I swapped the cross member because I knew one bolt was seized and I already had another cross member and control arms in which all the bolts were free. If you can't break all four inner end bolts for the lower control arms free, don't even start. For the forward two with the eccentric head and washer, the nut may come off easy, but make sure you can actually turn the bolt.

                    No luck removing the one stuck bolt after removing the assembly - I'll keep working on it.
                    90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                    08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Would it be a good idea to slather the bolts with shafts, not the threads, with silicon grease before installing? I was planning on doing this when I change mine.
                      My '91 LX build. Bought September 2017. Sold June 2020.
                      http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...r /> t=209871
                      Current mileage: 399450 5/18/2020

                      My '92 LX build. Bought Novemeber 2019. http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...91#post3293791
                      Current mileage: 422679 11/21/19

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                        #12
                        I'm currently swapping out my rear control arms for wagon arms with Prothane bushings. When I reinstall everything I am going to grease the shafts of the bolts before installing them. Hopefully this will prevent them rusting in place in the future.
                        MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Rilas View Post
                          Technically it isn't that hard of a job. The problem is that usually a few of the bolts have rusted themselves into the sleeves of the bushing. Pretty much making the removal of the bolt impossible. Then you have to resort to cutting it out. Usually with a hacksaw, and not in the best of conditions. If the whole rear sub frame comes out then you can just flip it upside down and work at your own leisure.
                          Ok so if those four inner bolts to lower arms don't break free then i should just take the cross member off. Gotcha. Good info to know. Am spraying them with pbj every day for a week. My car has yet to have any other bolt rusted shut. Even on the knuckle/shock tower, exhaust or anywhere else. Even though the exhaust bolts were iffy. So am hoping this will be same as I can't put entire rear on jackstands. Really need to do one side at a time.

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Definitely add tons of grease when you reassemble the eccentric toe adjusters, those have a reputation of seizing/rusting to the inner bushing sleeve. Only other thing I can add is to "set" all the OEM style/bonded rubber bushings at ride height. So you end up tightening all the bushing through bolts when at ride height. I like to use a scissor jack under the knuckle and lift the suspension to where the body just barely comes up off the jackstand, that is ride height for that corner. If there's any poly bushings you don't have to worry about those, the inner sleeves aren't bonded so the setting process isn't necessary. The idea is to always have the rubber not twisted at ride height. Hope that helps.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              I’ve had good luck with deep creep when on fluid failed


                              Deep creep + torch + impact for the win
                              Originally posted by wed3k
                              im a douchebag to people and i don't even own a lambo. whats your point? we, douchbags, come in all sorts of shapes and colours.

                              Comment

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