Is replacing the rear trailing arm and the lower control arms pretty str8t forward if nothing is rusted shut? I am about to do my rear suspension one side at a time and one item at a time. Trailing arm first then both lower control arms at same time. Anything i should keep mind of? Is the lower control arms easier? I might try to do those first.
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Replacing Rear Trailing Arm and Lower Control arms. Is it Str8tForward
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Remind me, EX or LX? If EX, be careful with the ABS sensor wires that run in the rear lower control arm. The bolts you are most likely to have problems with are the pivot bolts for the control arms, particularly the adjustable one on the forward arm. Are your trailing arms bad? Are you replacing the trailing arm and knuckle together? If you're disturbing the brake hoses, this would be a good opportunity to replace/upgrade those.
You should have it aligned afterward.90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums
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Originally posted by fleetw00d View PostRemind me, EX or LX? If EX, be careful with the ABS sensor wires that run in the rear lower control arm. The bolts you are most likely to have problems with are the pivot bolts for the control arms, particularly the adjustable one on the forward arm. Are your trailing arms bad? Are you replacing the trailing arm and knuckle together? If you're disturbing the brake hoses, this would be a good opportunity to replace/upgrade those.
You should have it aligned afterward.
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Originally posted by zedjr10 View PostIt is EX. One trailing arm is cracked and i can feel the rear is a little loose. 27 years old also. I am not replacing the knuckle. Should I? I do want that shock tower/knuckle bushing replaced but i figured I would pay a shop to do that later on. Have already replaced the brake hoses with stainless steel. I was looking and realize the rear sway bar link is really a bushing in a steel sleeve sort of. I got the bushing kit. Does the bushing come out easy or should i just get the sleeve with bushing already in it?
Get the sleeve with bushing
Way easier
Then you can just cut the old one with a hack saw/cold chisel and it’ll come out easy. Little sand paper and heat and the new one will tap in pretty easily
Pressing the bushing into the sleeve is a damn nightmare sometimesOriginally posted by wed3kim a douchebag to people and i don't even own a lambo. whats your point? we, douchbags, come in all sorts of shapes and colours.
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The knuckle should just hang from the shock. Just a lot of wrenching to swap everything over. If you drop the whole cross member and control arms together, you will probably have to drop the exhaust (just from the rubber hangers, no need to disconnect).
I just did the cross member and control arms on my 92 EX, the eccentric on one side was seized.90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums
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Originally posted by fleetw00d View PostThe knuckle should just hang from the shock. Just a lot of wrenching to swap everything over. If you drop the whole cross member and control arms together, you will probably have to drop the exhaust (just from the rubber hangers, no need to disconnect).
I just did the cross member and control arms on my 92 EX, the eccentric on one side was seized.
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Technically it isn't that hard of a job. The problem is that usually a few of the bolts have rusted themselves into the sleeves of the bushing. Pretty much making the removal of the bolt impossible. Then you have to resort to cutting it out. Usually with a hacksaw, and not in the best of conditions. If the whole rear sub frame comes out then you can just flip it upside down and work at your own leisure.
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Originally posted by Rilas View PostTechnically it isn't that hard of a job. The problem is that usually a few of the bolts have rusted themselves into the sleeves of the bushing. Pretty much making the removal of the bolt impossible. Then you have to resort to cutting it out. Usually with a hacksaw, and not in the best of conditions. If the whole rear sub frame comes out then you can just flip it upside down and work at your own leisure.
This makes everything a breeze. If you consider the effort of “the fight” when you are on your back, knees etc vs just biting the bullet and pulling it from square one and working upright on a bench with easy accessibility to everything it is 1,000 times easier
Time well spent and likely to save you time overall
Certainly saves some frustrationOriginally posted by wed3kim a douchebag to people and i don't even own a lambo. whats your point? we, douchbags, come in all sorts of shapes and colours.
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I swapped the cross member because I knew one bolt was seized and I already had another cross member and control arms in which all the bolts were free. If you can't break all four inner end bolts for the lower control arms free, don't even start. For the forward two with the eccentric head and washer, the nut may come off easy, but make sure you can actually turn the bolt.
No luck removing the one stuck bolt after removing the assembly - I'll keep working on it.90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums
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Would it be a good idea to slather the bolts with shafts, not the threads, with silicon grease before installing? I was planning on doing this when I change mine.My '91 LX build. Bought September 2017. Sold June 2020.
http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...r /> t=209871
Current mileage: 399450 5/18/2020
My '92 LX build. Bought Novemeber 2019. http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthre...91#post3293791
Current mileage: 422679 11/21/19
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Originally posted by Rilas View PostTechnically it isn't that hard of a job. The problem is that usually a few of the bolts have rusted themselves into the sleeves of the bushing. Pretty much making the removal of the bolt impossible. Then you have to resort to cutting it out. Usually with a hacksaw, and not in the best of conditions. If the whole rear sub frame comes out then you can just flip it upside down and work at your own leisure.
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Definitely add tons of grease when you reassemble the eccentric toe adjusters, those have a reputation of seizing/rusting to the inner bushing sleeve. Only other thing I can add is to "set" all the OEM style/bonded rubber bushings at ride height. So you end up tightening all the bushing through bolts when at ride height. I like to use a scissor jack under the knuckle and lift the suspension to where the body just barely comes up off the jackstand, that is ride height for that corner. If there's any poly bushings you don't have to worry about those, the inner sleeves aren't bonded so the setting process isn't necessary. The idea is to always have the rubber not twisted at ride height. Hope that helps.
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