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Odd Slit/Dent @ Tranny/Mount intersect

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    Odd Slit/Dent @ Tranny/Mount intersect

    H22A1, Accord Tranny
    Since I bought my wagon its always had this little puncture with oil coming out. Is this something serious? Repairable at all?

    My H22 burns a little oil like all. I've never checked my transmission fluid, always has been hard to shift into 1st/2nd when car is cold. I know the tranny can use regular oil for the fluid.

    From the front of the car


    Looking directly up at the slit

    #2
    Looks like someone did this on purpose to check where the leak was coming from. And it looks like it's coming from the rear main seal.

    Comment


      #3
      Oh wow really? So the slit itself isn't leaking, its the rear main. Very interesting. So that could explain my coil consumption a little..

      Is this common to make a slit?

      Comment


        #4
        That isn't a slit. It's the transmission housing with the flywheel cover on the bottom of it. 3 6mm bolts hold it onto the transmission if I remember correctly. It is there just to keep stuff from getting into the bell housing area of the transmission and also out of the pressure plate/ clutch / flywheel. Basically there is always a seam there, just someone pried part of your cover out a bit. Nothing is going to be hurt by this.
        MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

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          #5
          Ok, I understand the housing now. Is it fairly hard to diagnose where the oil is coming from (Aka should I google H22 leaky rear main seal and see what pops up?)

          Comment


            #6
            99% guaranteed it's your rear main seal. Pretty much the only thing that leaks at the rear end of the engine. Usually the transmission doesn't leak from the input shaft, not that it isn't possible though.
            MRT: 1993 Honda Accord SE Coupe (Lola)

            Comment


              #7
              Okay, So basiclly I need to take out my tranny in order to access this guy.

              Comment


                #8
                Yes, you will have to remove the transmission, clutch, and flywheel. The seal is installed in a plate that bolts to that end of the block. The seal can be purchased separately, or already installed in its mounting plate. The mounting plate has two studs on the bottom that are used to mount the oil pan.
                90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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                  #9
                  Ive heard of the seal not going into place correctly if you dont take the plate off. To take the plate off, I need to remove the oil pan correct?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    You might be able to just remove the two nuts from the studs on the seal plate that go through the pan (along with the other bolts that mount the plate); there may (no guarantee) then be enough play to swing the plate out far enough to clear the end of the crank. You could then use some Hondabond on that surface as well when reinstalling the plate. If the rear main is leaking, likely the pan is too. Do it once, do it right, install a new pan gasket as well. This will allow the rear main seal plate to be removed/installed straight onto the crank so you're less likely to damage it.
                    90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                    08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Hmm. Well I need to take my pan off anyway because it is leaking like you said. Plus theres also some dents in it from the pervious owner. How long does it take to take off the tranny?

                      Comment


                        #12
                        I'd plan on at least 2-3, maybe longer if it the first time doing it and how easily things come apart. Do you have a service manual? You need to undo the axles from both sides. To get the axles out of the tranny, you'll need to undo the lower ball joints and outer tie rods to allow the knuckles to swing out. The bolts that attach the engine to transmission and mounting bracket on the back can be a pain to get to. You'll also have to disconnect the shift linkage cables, clutch slave cylinder tube/hose, power steering speed sensor (or at least the hoses) and a few electrical connectors or brackets that mount to the trans housing.

                        When you pull the transmission, it is also a good opportunity to install new axle seals.

                        Just remembered. If it is a manual, you should have the fixed intermediate shaft across the back of the block. The transmission will probably come off relatively easily with this in place, but it may be difficult to reinstall if the intermediate shaft is aligned well. You may have to remove the shaft anyway to get to all the engine to trans bolts. I just did this yesterday (pulled engine/trans from parts car) and I've already forgotten.
                        Last edited by Fleetw00d; 05-18-2017, 12:30 AM.
                        90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                        08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Oh gosh. This sounds kinda like a PITA. I do need lower ball joints done as well. Welp. Time to decide weather or not to keep the car. I've been eyeing a 2015 or 2017 Civic Si for some time. Thank you for the help Fleetwood. Now I know much more..

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Just a lot of wrenching; not a lot in parts - it is worth doing. Still a lot cheaper than a new car.
                            90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
                            08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

                            Comment


                              #15
                              This is true. Should I grab a Prelude manual, or Accord. Ive seen one with both? Also a run to harbor freight for an impact...

                              Comment

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