af_1132 : 1993 Accord LX

[af_1132]

Ugh, with a PCB plenum comes added headaches!

#1: the stupid studs in the runners for the IAB plate and plenum are shorter, so short that they sit at the level of the holes in the plenum, and have to be swapped out to work with the P13 stuff.

#2: the throttle body attached to a PCB will have the MAP placed on top, and does not come with an idle screw, so you will have to swap out TB's as well (if you are running your harness, that is).

For the heatshield gasket, I purchased the Golden Eagle version because shipping was free. Hondata wanted $18 to ship a piece of $40 plastic. I'm sorry, but no way.

[Grumpys93]

You can run that throttle body. You can either make a block off plate or go to the junkyard, get a map sensor to plug the map sensor hole, then just connect the vacuum hose of the accord sensor to a spare nipple.

Or you can splice in a throttle body mounted map sensor plug. There is a diy here on how to do it. Or I can snap a pic of mine. You’ll have to do this if you ever plan to run a 3 or 4 bar map sensor.

[af_1132]

Well, shoot. I wish I had waited for your response before going to the JY to get an OBD1 TB. The good thing is I have the MAP from the H23A harness still, so I will save all of that since I know I will probably not be able to sell it.

I would love to see a pic of your MAP splice.

[Jarrett]

http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showpost...4&postcount=12

[cp[mike]]

here's a pic of my old OBD2 map sensor throttle body. it's the same 3 pins as a stock map sensor, just rearranged, and mounted to the TB instead of being external with a hose. I had used that as an opportunity to remove the black "emissions box" altogether from my old CB.

[af_1132]

Thanks for the pics, guys. I'm guessing the MAP helps adjust the idle in OBD2 systems?

Also, any ideas on how I can mount the coil? I got my hands on the TD-61U (an original TEC), and I currently rigged up a mount using a throttle cable bracket attached to the thermostat housing. It just sits higher than the plenum, so I am concerned with hood clearance (motor on the stand still, so can't easily check yet).

[Grumpys93]

If you snap some pics I can check for you. But I believe you have quite a bit of clearance in the back vs the front of the car. Also the h23/22 sits more flat then the f22 so unless it’s sitting 2 inches higher or so you should be good.

[af_1132]

Certainly, here is the link to three pics of it on instagram.

It seems like it might be too high to me, but I can figure out another option I believe, as long as the harness and coil wire reach.

Also, I just did the manual rack conversion, leaving everything in, adding the four washers, and greasing everything down, but I forgot to put the large cylinder spring back in! I actually didn't see it pop out, and so I natually found it after I torqued the tie rods down! Should I take the rack out and put it back in?

[Rilas]

Yes take it back apart and put the spring back in there. Otherwise you might end up with some play in the rack.

[af_1132]

Gotcha, ugh! Thanks man. I can't believe I didn't see it fall out of the cylinder housing. BTW, thanks for all your investigating and research on the manual rack conversion.

[Rilas]

No worries man. Also just take the valve body off the rack. It's just the 2 10mm bolts that hold it on. After it's off then you can just fix it on the bench. Shouldn't take any more than 20 minutes. That is with the car starting on the ground.

Your welcome for the information, also I've got a few updates to post in the thread for the manual rack. As always we all try to keep learning and sharing our knowledge.

[af_1132]

Wait, I believe I am not being clear enough as to which spring I am taking about. The spring is not in the valve body at all. The spring is in the main shaft, and has a diameter near 2 inches. It sits in the end of the cylinder housing (what PRCB7 called the "black housing") and seems to apply force to the large grey cylinder itself.

In the image below, the part I am referring to is called the cylinder spring, and it's near the top left in the image.

[Rilas]

Unfortunately yes you do need that spring. You need to tear it all back out and get that spring back in there!

[af_1132]

Ah, geez, well at least I didn't bend the new cotter pins!

[af_1132]

Ok, I have to say...I am bummed that I can't get into Jei at Blacktrax before the first track day on the 17th, but...

Phearable.net is AWESOME!!!!!

I already have the s300 basemap from them for the H23A, and I just called to ask a question about their remote E-Tune service after hours.

I literally got a call back in about 5 minutes. The guy was so nice and helpful, and he actually wanted to hear about the entire car and work with me on price and everything to do the remote tune! I'm actually excited to be involved in the whole process, through datalogging and such. Three sets of calibrations are included in the price, and five different datalogs are done for each calibration. Wohoo for remote tuning!