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Engine build, compression calculations

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    Engine build, compression calculations

    So i don't know much about building motors but i have sourced all my parts together and my build is this:

    f20b3 block (f22b1/b2 family)
    f22b1 vtec head resurfaced
    Delta 260 regrind
    OEM gaskets etc.

    I have entered my information in the honda static compression calculator app and some things just aren't looking right. I dont know if the f20b3 has a different crank than the f22 or shorter rods??
    i have gotten 8.3:1 results which cant be right
    I have also gotten 11.8:1 which seems off as well
    according to wiki info on the f20b3

    F20B3[edit]
    Used in the Netherlands Belgium and Luxembourg Accord Coupe's CD9 (CD5) and in Honda Accord Aerodeck (Wagon) in Germany

    Specifications

    Displacement: 1997 cc
    Configuration Valve: SOHC, 16 valves
    136 HP
    9:1 CR
    85mm bore
    88mm stroke


    i need some help from pro's
    will this work as a combo before i pay my guy to put it together?
    -Tyler

    #2
    Rod length has nothing to do with determining the stroke. Just the throw of the crankshaft. Assuming you're using the F20B3 rods and pistons along with the crankshaft, your compression ratio will be whatever it was for the F20B3 from the factory. The volume of the combustion chamber has not changed.
    My Members' Ride Thread - It's a marathon build, not a sprint. But keep me honest on the update frequency!

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      #3
      Unless an overseas member has the specs handy, I doubt you'll be able to find out the rod lengths, compression height, etc.

      Regardless, these combinations make no sense for a performance build. If anything with the shorter stroke and probably similar combustion chamber you would probably lose power if you didn't maintain what the F20B3 had. Who told you this was a good idea?
      '94 JDM H22A: 178whp 146wtq

      Originally posted by deevergote
      If you say double dutch rudder, i'm banning you...

      Comment


        #4
        Originally posted by Joey GT-R View Post
        Unless an overseas member has the specs handy, I doubt you'll be able to find out the rod lengths, compression height, etc.

        Regardless, these combinations make no sense for a performance build. If anything with the shorter stroke and probably similar combustion chamber you would probably lose power if you didn't maintain what the F20B3 had. Who told you this was a good idea?
        thanks guys i got my answer

        No one said this was a good idea lol
        everyone bashes the f22b1 for performance
        This is not a performance build either, rather what i had laying around to put together.
        purchased the block complete new and put together and i had the head worked on
        sent the cam off because i wanted to
        so, i am just putting these together to have a motor to get my cb7 on the road.
        possibly boost for the future
        any input is appreciated, though, I've never built motors before just researched.
        Last edited by tm123; 04-11-2014, 02:04 AM.
        -Tyler

        Comment


          #5
          Just because the block is new or refurbished doesn't mean it's going to hold boost for very long. Forged internals would be highly recommended and since the motor is already out of the car it would make the most sense to do so now.
          '94 JDM H22A: 178whp 146wtq

          Originally posted by deevergote
          If you say double dutch rudder, i'm banning you...

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Joey GT-R View Post
            Just because the block is new or refurbished doesn't mean it's going to hold boost for very long. Forged internals would be highly recommended and since the motor is already out of the car it would make the most sense to do so now.
            Yes I agree but, it's just a possibility for me.
            One thing i will do for performance is get a f20b or h22 transmission instead of turbo kit etc.
            I want reliability because i miss driving it and don't wanna be in this position again lol
            all that needs to be done is drop the motor off to a friend who builds honda motors and remove my blown a4
            My question has been answered though
            I wanted to make sure the valves didn't smash the pistons lol
            compression should be 9:1 maybe an increment higher via the resurfaced head.
            -Tyler

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