H22A Cold Idle Too High

[CBAccordA4]

As the title says, it seems like my cold idle has gotten higher over the weekend. It will idle at close to 2000 RPM when cold and then when it warms up, it will idle normally, I have the warm idle set to 800RPM (which surges sometimes after a hard throttle). Cold idle is supposed to be around 1400 RPM so I know this is too high and just too loud in the mornings. Also, even if the car is off for only 2 hours in 65 degree weather, it will still idle too high, 1800 RPM or so. I am using a P28 with Hondata s200.

I get no CEL, so Im ruling out the temp sensor, or maybe I shouldnt? any ideas??

I use Honda antifreeze, it is full and bled. Spoon 1.35 cap and Koyo alum Rad

It never overheats, needle stays in the middle more towards the cold side like usual.


Car drives fine except it bogs a little when I let off the throttle in low gears. Performance is fine, just the idle isa annoying. Any ideas are appreciated

[Chrisisiced]

A good starting point to check would be your IACV and FITV.

[CBAccordA4]

A good starting point to check would be your IACV and FITV.

Yeh, Im just actually going to have a chance to check over everything now. The idle has actually gotten higher since then. Just this morning, it now cold idles at 3000 rpm and it warm idles at 1900 RPM.

I was thinking maybe I had too much antifreeze so I checked the bottle and it was way past full, so I almost emptied it thinking that whatever overage the system had, it would pressurize it into bottle. It didnt throw anything into the bottle but I touch the coolant hoses and they seem STIFF with pressure, so Im gonna find a way to depressurize it and start from there. What do you think is better to relieve pressure, the bleeder valve or the Radiator cap.

[CBAccordA4]

Well looks like I'll be investing in GASKETS. It seems I have a leak somewhere after vigorous test I've done.

I tried cleaning and changing the iacv both with no results, a used one by the way.

I took off the intake pipe and tested the iacv by blocking both hole in the TB and unplugged the IACV and it still didnt shut off but it idles very low, like 500 rpm.

I didnt bother testing for voltage or resisitance because I can hear the plunger move as I plug in and out the 2 pin connector.

While the holes were blocked I also pinched all vac hoses 1 by 1 and nothing.
This leads be to believe a gasket is leaking BUT I sprayed throttle cleaner around the gaskets and I heard no difference in RPM speed so Im just gonna try my like and change all the gaskets. Honda is just now closing so I'll check ARCH autoparts for the stuff. If anyone knows something I missed or that I dont please chime in

[CBAccordA4]

Yesterday I got around to checking the FITV, it just happens that I am used to it being bolted onto the inake manifold on the accords, I forgot on the preludes, which I have a h22, is bolted on the Throttle body.

So I take the TB of and screw the cap off the FITV and sure enough the wax plunger was completely screwed off to the point when I opened the cap it fell out. So I screw it back in as much as possible. (I have pics, will post later). Bolted everything back and now it cut the idle down to about 500 RPM less than what it was before. In other words the cold idle is now 2300 rpm and the warm idle is now 1500 RPM. I was so sure that this would fix it but I was wrong, it usually works on the accords. Anyway, I'll try another FITV tomorrow, maybe that one is just worn out or something

[CBAccordA4]

Problem Solved

Yes, it was the FITV. Apparently when I tried screwing the plunger back down into the assembly, it wouldnt let me go as far back as it need to be. Basically it was still blocking the air port that it is supposed to expand in and out of. Luckily a friend of mine had another one from a past h22 laying around and this one was screw all the way down into the chamber so I knew it would work. I'm still puzzled on how this things works its way out of the thread. Anyway, here I have pics.


This is the TB off and the sensor underneath. Cap is held by two philips/8mm screw bolts.



This is the plunger in the chamber


The plunger fell out all on its own, completey out of the threads.


I pushed it back into the chamber and forced it to thread in. I used a flathead and then a special key I had from my job.



However it didnt go too far down, still causing an uneecessarily high idle both warm and cold.

I guess ffor guys having this future problem with the fast idle valve can try this method first by screwing the plunger back into the chamber. I heard this method usually works and usually threads back down far enough to work properly. Mine did not cooperate unfortunately but thank God for the spare parts we keep laying around

[Granite CB7]

When I installed my IM (A6 runners, P13 plenum + t/b) I had tightened the FITV all the way as a baseline, basically refused to idle when cold, then started adjusting it until cold idle was @ 1500. I think most people remove the t/b and mess w/ the FITV maybe? but I was able to do the adjustments w/ a small mirror so I could see what I was doing down there! G/L w/ the rest of your problem! Do you think you still may have a leaking gasket though?