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DBSHARP'S F22B DOHC All-Motor Thread

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    #47
    yea, I figured out why my idle bounces around like crazy and cuts off sometimes when it is bouncing around. I added in a decent amount of timing to the low rpm low vacuum area of the map and it is working much better now, I added some timing back into the 1-2k range now that I know it wasn't the problem.
    spin city

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      #48
      I went to the track tonight. 9.9 @ 73mph. I am going to save the 300 that I would have spent on dyno tuning, and put it towards a good header or possibly a h22 shortblock. I think this cam is a little bit too much for a stock f22b. 0-60 is 6.7 seconds, I got this from my data logs while at the track.
      here's another video
      Last edited by dbsharp; 05-30-2008, 10:01 AM.
      spin city

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        #49
        What do you mean it is too much for your motor? Why specifically?

        You going to get a ported head to compliment the cams? I'd open up your exhaust after that with a header and atleast 2.5" exhaust.
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          #50
          I have a 2.5inch exhaust. I would like to have a ported head, but, That isn't going to happen anytime soon because of how much it cost. I think that this cam is too big for a 9.2 compression ratio. this thing starts picking up power at 5k and at 7k is dosen't show any signs of dieing off. I would like to get a h22 short block with types pistons. This would raise the compression and let me rev higher safely. I think higher compression would do me good.
          spin city

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            #51
            Originally posted by dbsharp
            I have a 2.5inch exhaust. I would like to have a ported head, but, That isn't going to happen anytime soon because of how much it cost. I think that this cam is too big for a 9.2 compression ratio. this thing starts picking up power at 5k and at 7k is dosen't show any signs of dieing off. I would like to get a h22 short block with types pistons. This would raise the compression and let me rev higher safely. I think higher compression would do me good.
            Interesting, my F22ax SOHC delta 272 cam powerband is from 4-7K rpm. My compression is stock 8.8 and the block is completely stock. I can also tell you that I can rev past 7K, been to 7.5K by accident, even close to 8K but based on dyno graph I am not making power there anyhow, so it's pointless.
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              #52
              Ive seen posted here that the f22a 272 is around 201 duration at .050". thats a lot less than the h23 272. also I have a .455 lift. I don't think the f22a 272 has that much lift. they are really two different cams imo.
              spin city

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                #53
                yes your stock fuel pump can support a lot of power. I have never made a fogger, but my buddy says that he has done it and its easy. If I do it I will post it. I just replaced my fuel pump, hopefully that will cure my problems. recently my car has been cuting off, not starting up right, and the afr's are just plain inconsistent sometimes. voltage at the pump is solid and ranges from 13.4-13.6, even when the headlights come on. If this does not solve my problems, then I'm going to try replacing/ upgrading my grounds, and add in a braided ground strap for the ecu. If that dosen't fix it then I think I'm going to take it to a local guy who tunes hondas and does a lot of honda wiring trouble shooting.
                spin city

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                  #54
                  I have and it is new. after drilling out the throttle body idle holes the car idles without the idle control valve hooked up. I'm not sure if the fuel pump was messing up or not, but its something I would like to replace before I have high compression. the car is still acting a little funny after all this. Every highly experienced person Ive talked to about this issue seems to think that it is the fuel pump or a bad ground. so Next I'm going to replace all the grounds and try to get a braided ground strap for the ecu. A guy I know who has been tuning for years said that getting a braided ground strap for the ecu has fixed some strange problems for him, so what the hell, I'll do it. My problem has been getting worse here recently so I'm going to start logging and trying to tune again, (I took a break to wait until I had my problem fixed), and see what I can figure out. If It weren't for the fact that It is getting worse, I would think it was a tunning issue.
                  spin city

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                    #55
                    It runs richer now under full throttle than it did before I changed the pump so I think the pump was weak at the very least. If I actually get some free time soon, I will start tuning it. I gave up on getting a good tune before because It was so inconsistent between logs, that it was untunable. Hopefully It will be more consistent now.
                    spin city

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                      #56
                      I ran it open loop yesterday. Its is definantly A LOT richer now than it was with the old fuel pump, but there is still a issue with it leaning out with headlights on. I guess I fixed part of the problem. I'm very very ready to get this figured out.
                      Last edited by dbsharp; 06-25-2008, 01:26 PM.
                      spin city

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                        #57
                        Originally posted by dbsharp View Post
                        I ran it open loop yesterday. Its is definantly A LOT richer now than it was with the old fuel pump, but there is still a issue with it leaning out with headlights on. I guess I fixed part of the problem. I'm very very ready to get this figured out.
                        So if when headlights are on it leans out, I would check/redo grounds on the headlights more than likely. I would also make sure the engine bay chassis is grounded as well in coordination with negative post off battery. I would think the fuel pump is properly grounded by design.

                        Trunk mount or stock battery location?
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                          #58
                          I have checked/ throughly cleaned the grounds in the engine bay. the fuel pump ground is good. I have checked the voltage at the pump's connector, when the headlights are on, and it doesn't drop much at all. I didn't test this wile the pump was running. I am going to do this tomorrow, If the voltage drops considerably when the pump is running, Then obviously I'm going to suspect the fuel pump circuit. Id do it today, but I had thick steel pin hit the side of my knee while moving pretty dam fast today.
                          spin city

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                            #59
                            The voltage that fuel pump sees is good and stable, lights on or not, so that isn't the problem. I wonder how likely it is that my ecu is bad. When I got it from xenocron, I noticed that it had bad written on the ecu casing, but it was crossed out and good was written on it. Also The ecu kinda does its own thing with idle speed, it dosen't matter what I set the idle to be in crome. I am going to make a new bin and use that just to make sure the one Ive been working on isn't corrupt.
                            spin city

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                              #60
                              Originally posted by dbsharp View Post
                              The voltage that fuel pump sees is good and stable, lights on or not, so that isn't the problem. I wonder how likely it is that my ecu is bad. When I got it from xenocron, I noticed that it had bad written on the ecu casing, but it was crossed out and good was written on it. Also The ecu kinda does its own thing with idle speed, it dosen't matter what I set the idle to be in crome. I am going to make a new bin and use that just to make sure the one Ive been working on isn't corrupt.
                              Hmm, that sounds shady. Borrow a friend's chipped ECU if you have access and try your map out to rule the ECU out or plead your case to Xenocron in exchange for another. Sorry, I don't have a spare chipped ECU to help you out to atleast diagnose it, but maybe someone on these forums does.
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