DBSHARP'S F22B DOHC All-Motor Thread

[dbsharp]

IF the machinist isn't too busy tomorrow, I will have it running hopefully on Wednesday. I can't wait to finally have it done.

[F20A CB7]

Sweet meng, F series motors for the win.

[dbsharp]

to all who it may concern, a b18 head that my machinist was working on when I brought him the parts, had retainers and seats that would accept dual springs stock, even though they come with single springs. crower sells these springs for the b18/h23. b18 seats and retainers might fit the h23 and work with the crower dual springs.

[dbsharp]

And the build begins! new headlights are in as well as a oil catch can. got the head back just now, and I'm about to throw it on.

[dbsharp]

Its running! the tune is horrible for it. where the f22b idled at 14.7 afr before this cam Is at 10.0afr on the same tune. my car sounds better than before, or maybe its the acoustics in this garage, . untuned at 750 rpms it sounded cammed out, I haven't run it much yet, or tuned much because my ostrich causes a solid check engine light, and i wanna investigate that first. Ive got a lot of pics I'm going to post here later.

[foamypirate]

Excellent.

[dbsharp]

more photo's added on the first page.

[dbsharp]

damn car!!!!! this thing wont idle worth a shit. the idle control valve is just going nuts. the slider in crome makes a difference, but it is very jumpy. also the target idle is bs cause It always wants to idle around 750-800 when it isnt jumping around going crazy. I wonder if a vacuum leak is possible, I already found 2 and now I don't have anymore vacuum leak sounds. im getting between 17"-15" at idle it stays around 16" most often. Ignition tables were a bit off, because I didnt move them when I added in vacuum columns to help with idle resolution. I did drive it though, dam this thing needs more tunning bad! tuning this is harder than tuning a stock motor for sure! I'm glad I got used to tuning a stock motor first!

[excalibur02]

take your intake off. have the car idle. then on the throttle body put your finger in the first top hole. see if it stops the surging idle. If it stops it then replace your iacv.. if you dont have an extra one just plug it up....

[dbsharp]

well I tried to adjust the manual idle adjustment screw, but it made no difference! my car shuts off with the iacv unplugged, and always has. I screwed it out 3 or 4 turns and it didnt do shit it still stalls out at 0% tps. I have previously thought that my iacv was faulty. Using very similar ignition maps that my motor used before the cam, Im getting pinging at 7-4 inches vacuum. Im going to try to mess with ignition tomorrow and see if i can get rid of that.

[dbsharp]

I took off the throttle body because I think that the idle adjustment was at least partially blocked, because I could not get it to idle on its own without the iacv working. It was dirty! I have added extra vacuum columns into my map to help with idle resolution and to try to resolve my constantly revving idle. once the throttle body goes back on, I will set the idle to around 700, if it will idle there without the iacv hooked up, and then set my target idle around 850 in crome. If this dose not fix the issue, I will reduce the timing in the first few rows below idle (higher rpms), and give it a more gradual slope rather than such a steep increase. I'm going to pull some timing from the area with pinging, and see if that helps. A map I got from D112crzy is running a lot more timing in the area that I'm having pinging, but I think his tune was for a stock motor. I don't know how the cams I'm using would affect optimal timing yet. we will see. also the idle make the car shake like a sun of a bitch, I'm considering going back to stock mounts from my urethane filled mounts. The idle isn't too terribly lopy now when the idle is stable, which happens every now and then for no apparent reason right now.

[HondaFan81]

Couple comments for ya..

1) In regards to your first page photos of head with cams installed, why is there no signs of engine assembly lube for the cams/cam journals? I hope you lubricated them very well prior to engine start up and break-in.

2) For reference, my red Accord build has a Delta 272, plus some additional mods. I tried everything in terms of stock idle procedures to get my car to idle. Best I could do was 850-900 RPM, it was not consistent, would stall out coming to intersections due to use of brakes. Our brakes use a vacuum operated brake booster, when you do not have enough vacuum (due to your cam), it will affect your braking (will not stop very well). Point is, there is a point where with a non-VTEC camshaft(s) you will simply need to raise your idle RPMS to create enough vacuum to consistently idle your motor AND have enough vacuum to not stall out due to braking, plus have enough braking power. This is why my red Accords must idle at 1200 rpms to function similar to stock. My white Accord has a level 3 Bisimoto cam, it needs atleast 1300 rpm, however 1500 rpm is better as the engine idles smoother. At 1300 rpm it idles consistent, but a bit choppy.

[dbsharp]

yes, I used assembly lube when assembling the head. I put it on everywhere that there are two pieces of metal in contact that move. I think that the idle will be pretty good and stable once I get it back together and get it set up right. I haven't noticed a problem with using the brakes so far, but we will have to see about that once I get it running better.

[HondaFan81]

yes, I used assembly lube when assembling the head. I put it on everywhere that there are two pieces of metal in contact that move. I think that the idle will be pretty good and stable once I get it back together and get it set up right. I haven't noticed a problem with using the brakes so far, but we will have to see about that once I get it running better.

Once you get it back together and set up right? I thought everything was finished, what do you have left to do?

[dbsharp]

I pulled the throttle body off and cleaned out the idle screw. I cannot get this car to idle with the iacv unplugged no matter how far the idle adjustment screw is adjusted! I had 3k and below tuned pretty well two hours ago, and now I went out and did some more data logging and all of a sudden it is too lean everywhere! iat only changed 10 degrees f, and that is all that changed . 10 degrees shouldn't so that. the idle is stable around 800 now, making the timing slope up a little slower in the low rpm's and running it a little rich, made the idle pretty smooth considering. I HATE it when you come back and everything seems to have changed! this is way more of a pain in the butt than tuning a stock motor! I adjusted the rolling idle up a bit to help with braking, and it seems pretty good. The dam car occasionally stalls out and then does not want to start back up, and when the rpms are falling from a shift into neutral or something similar it sounds like it is about to give out and the rpm's dip pretty low, and then stabilize. I'm thinking about trying to get a job at the local dyno tuners shop so that I can learn more and get more experiance. right now I'm to the point where I might just drop some cash to get the guy to help me out. Ill have to wait till Friday though, cause till then I'm broke!