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    Cutch pedal acting weird

    Ok so first off is to explain the situation, When depressing the clutch pedal it goes down with what I would consider normal pressure but there doesn't seem to be a lot of pressure pushing it back up. I automatically bring my clutch foot back up to where the clutch would stop and sometimes the clutch pedal has a delay before slapping back up. I thought maybe I had contaminated fluid and it was fairly dirty so I re-bleed it completely. I am still having the same issue with the clutch pedal. I frequently heel-toe when dropping a gear to make a turn and with the pedal not coming back up it seems as if the clutch is not disengaging and I'm unable to rev match.

    Now my observations:

    I had a squeaky clutch pedal (like an old bed spring) but it does not seem squeaky anymore.

    When bleeding the system I noticed that possibly the reservoir cap is not sealing tightly (I plan to purchase a new set in the near future).

    I have no leaks or obvious problems at the slave cylinder nor do I have any obvious leaks at the master cylinder. I have a custom "tuck" line and it is unkinked and not leaking.

    When my son was pressing the clutch pedal during bleeding I observed air bubbles traveling up through the fluid in the reservoir (not tiny bubbles but almost like tiny burps of air).

    I read through the other clutch pedal problems however they all seem to have no pressure going down and the pedal sinks all the way to the floor, mine seems fine and I do not have any problem getting into gear without grinding which would indicate to me that the clutch isn't fully releasing during upshift.

    I'm thinking that along with the leaky reservoir the issue lies in the CMC, possibly a bad internal seal? I'm just asking to eliminate possibilities before making an unnecessary purchase of a CMC.

    #2
    Bad seal in the master cylinder. But just starting to go....
    Will hold the pressure for the 3 seconds it takes you to get to the floor but is slowly leaking so by 6 seconds it has lost its pressure. No leaks bc it's internal seal.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
      Bad seal in the master cylinder. But just starting to go....
      Will hold the pressure for the 3 seconds it takes you to get to the floor but is slowly leaking so by 6 seconds it has lost its pressure. No leaks bc it's internal seal.
      I was afraid of that being that it is the original one that came with the car (unless the previous owner/s) installed an oem one at some point. Is a rebuild possible or is it just time for a new one? Mind you it is not every single time the pedal is depressed just a majority of the time. Also, assuming I do get a new one will I have to bench bleed it before installing?

      Comment


        #4
        Get a new one. Bench bleeding before installation is a good idea.
        90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
        08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by fleetw00d View Post
          Get a new one. Bench bleeding before installation is a good idea.
          I never understood the bench bleeding, as once you connect the brake lines in the car you're letting air in and have to bleed it all again. Is it to not allow air past the seal?

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by Raf99 View Post
            I never understood the bench bleeding, as once you connect the brake lines in the car you're letting air in and have to bleed it all again. Is it to not allow air past the seal?
            It fills all the passages in the MC. I use a short section of tube bent to deliver the fluid back into the reservoir. I'll actually leave that tube in place while I install the MC, then quickly remove it and install the line on the car; this should minimize how much air is introduced. Fluid should be draining from the MC, not going back up inside it while you do this.

            For brakes, sometimes I'll compress the front calipers to push fluid back toward the MC (assuming the line is completely full) which I hoped would push any bubble right at the tube/MC interface back into the MC and let it out that way; then start bleeding the system.
            Last edited by Fleetw00d; 01-15-2018, 07:28 PM.
            90 LX 4dr 5 spd 396,014 (sold 1/1/2022) - MRT: http://www.cb7tuner.com/vbb/showthread.php?t=201450
            08 Element LX FWD AT 229,000 - MRT: fleetw00d : 2008 Honda Element LX - CB7Tuner Forums

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