HEAD SWAP: F22B DOHC on F22A1 BLOCK .. PICS**

[Mishakol129]

Well said deev.. You also have to consider the ability of the f22b compared to the f22a. Just doing research for a few hours I've noticed that on street n/a setups, the dohc f22b beats the f22a price wise. If you want non-vtec n/a power, I would suggest the f22b over the sohc f22ax/bx. Sure, you have 2 cams, but from what I can tell, the money to get the f22a to 200 hp is better spent in the f22b, as long as you can get the head for a relatively cheap price. But then, you have variability in prices, so, I'm not 100% sure. Either way, boost is a better way to spend money on the f series, but priorities, you know?

I'm planning on buying an DOHC F22B and think that it is a wiser decision than rebuilding my f22a6. It has just as much boost potential as the f22, and is more powerful in stock form, as well as more potent with mild upgrades to have fun with while you/if you save for turbo. Pretty neat motor. So is the H23.

My .02.

I like what you said about the F22B DOHC. Do you think $700 is a good price for a JDM one? Thing is, who knows if the thing is gonna be a good swap or not. My F series engine leaks oil like a sieve. I think it has a crack in the block causing this because before I rebuilt it the leak was exactly the same, it leaks about a quart every 200 miles. I think I can identify it but everytime I try to fix it I get no results. I will inspect it tomorrow to find the leak, I just took a long trip 2 hours there and back and on the way there I almost lost all my oil. There was like no oil on the dipstick. Oil light didn't come on though.

As a replacement for my engine I have two options: Either get the F22B DOHC shipped to my door for $700, OR, buy an H22a on CL for $300 that needs to be rebuilt. The guy won't go any lower than $300, kinda lame I know but he's firm.

Which one would you choose? Money is tight.


EDIT:

Thinking it over again I am not too thrilled about making this swap or any swap in general. The labor involved to do it again after I already rebuilt my F is not exciting. I think I am going to try real hard to fix the bad oil leak it has in it. The H23 Vtec sounded really cool for a while though.

[Mishakol129]

I did this swap last month. Its running but not that great and I discovered problems with my cylinders, they were scratched up. I also remembered I put the rings in backwards in my rebuild. Derpa derp me. Oil scraper ring is on the top instead of the bottom. So my car eats mad oil now.

Here it is though,




Here are my cylinder walls. Notice how number 1 and 2 are scratched all to shit.

[Mishakol129]

FINISHED

So I did run into some problem trying to finish this swap. I also learned some things.
I originally installed a H23a timing belt on this motor but it was too slack and didnt seem to run the motor proper timing wise, at least I thought at first that the h23 belt was causing the timing issue, but it wasnt. However I figured that installing back the f22b dohc belt would solve my problem. It solved the problem of the slackness but it was still running 10 degrees retarded with everything lined up. WHAT COULD IT BE? It was the stock f22a auto ecu retarding the timing. I had no idea it does this. The whole time I thought it was physical timing and ignition that was off. Anyway the f22b mapped P05 straightened that out. Ran great.

How could you have possibly install the F22b dohc timing belt when you were using the POA water pump. That's the wrong pump anyways, it BARELY fit on the timing gears when I tried to install it. The belt is too short. Now if you used the H23 belt, which I am, it would work but your timing would still be off.

Another thing. You don't need to use the F22b dohc ECU you can use the Pt6 just fine. I found that the P39 ECU for that engine dumps too much fuel saturates the engine. When I put the PT6 it ran MUCH better. Your compression ratio is 8:8:1 for the F22a so use that ecu. F22b dohc is 9:5:1 that ECU should not be used for the head swap.

I still don't understand how you used the F22b dohc belt with the Accord water pump. It just boggles my mind. The F22b water pump has 19 teeth for a 126 tooth belt. When I tried to put that belt on with the 20 tooth POA Accord pump it was a bitch and 1/2 to get it to slid on and even when it did the timing was way off. I was using the Caravan belt but that is the exact same as the JDM one.

This swap definately makes more power than the f22a6 with bolt ons. It is very close to the f22b, maybe makes less power due to less compression im guessing.


All in all, both swaps came out good and made good power over the SOHC cylinder heads. That 2.0SI tranny was better than I thought. I do wish that the head was on a fresher block but maybe with some heavy oil it can take some abuse.


If you want a swap done in NYC and you like what you see just send me a PM.

Right now the way I have it setup, it definitely does not make more power than the sohc head. When I get the right pump and belt it might though.


EDIT: Don't mind my comments about the pump, I know for a fact you ordered the JDM one. And the ECU, i'm probably wrong about that. I could swear that I thought my car ran a lot better after I changed from the P39 to the PT6. It seemed to at least.

[Mishakol129]

Well im not quite finished yet dut to me and owners busy schedules but its almost done. Only concern I added above was flushing the cooling system. I saw a little mixing when I had the car running for a minute and I hope its just the old leftover stuff lingering from before.
Worse case scenario would be the headgasket is not properly sealed and the block or head is warped or there might be a crack in the block, which I had bad feelings about this block to begin with. Anyway i hope the flushing is a success because I put 12 hours into this already. If anyone has ideas or insight juss let me know. By the way i used F22a head torque sequence and specs.

I believe you about the ignition timing being off 10 degrees in your other thread:
My A6 ECU seems to be doing the exact same thing. Everytime I would time it with the light and check on it after the car warmed up I couldn't even see the timing marks. To think I was actually gonna sell my P39 ecu for $200. I guess not now.