Lightweight Flywheel

[Nocture]

I loved driving with my lightweight flywheel. Yeah you have to get used to it but I was fine daily driving it. Don't have to down shift as much, easier to catch my clutch, easier start up, engine response is quicker. Depending on your driving, I'm pretty sure you can get better mpg too.

[Cb7_Qc]

i have a bully stage 3 clutch kit with a fidanza 10pounds flywheel, the motor is stock and i have absolutley nothing negative to say about this set up besides the fact thats its a ceramic clutch, so it squeeks a bit when the engine is cold.
the engine response is quicker, it revs easier, and i have no problem when going uphill from a dead stop lol...i guess that part is all between the driver seat and the steering
although i was told not to go lighter then 10 pounds for a stock motor as it would be useless and worn my clutch faster...
you gotta keep in mind that generally performance is at the expense of confort. in my case i went with bully because the pressure plate works with what they call ''neo-bearings'' so the pedal effort is just like an OEM clutch even tho its a stage 3 with 4 pucks on the clutch. and i picked the 10pounds flywheel instead of a 8,5pounds one to get something in between performance/confort. so far i love my setup! grips just fine when i go to the track, and feels confy enough for a daily drive.

[toycar]

Inertia.


Inertia is the word that applies to this rotational mass and why it takes longer to slow it down.


I prefer OEM on most applications.


I think it rev's down too fast too with a lightened flywheel. I think that the gearing forces the engine to rev higher than the flywheel puts the engine speed in between shifts when running a lightened flywheel. This variable in engine speed vs vehicle speed will cause excessive wear and stress on the drivetrain for no damn reason.


Think about it.



If you are spinning the tranny at the same speed as the motor, when you put it in gear there is minimal force transfered from the wheels to the engine in that transition.



When you shift and the car is going so fast that the tires rolling down the road force you into an RPM range that is higher than the current engine speed, it is not detonation/ignition cycle that is forcing the engine to rev that high.


This reverse application of force is hard on your entire drivetrain.



Think about down shifting to 3rd at 60. Don't give it any gas, but you still downshift. Whats the tach jump to, little over 4,000 rpm's?


What is driving the motor to spin at that speed if you are NOT giving it gas?



The inertia from the vehicle traveling down the road. The friction on the pavement is transfering energy through the drivetrain through the wheels. Since the wheels are being forced to spin so fast and the engine is engaged, the weight/speed/inertia of the vehicle is what is driving your engine-not a combustion cycle.


Totally different kind of load on an engine.



Now apply that concept to a flywheel.


When you shift, you rev down at a given speed using OEM parts. Your tranny gearing is pretty much spot on so that as you drive and shift, you pick up the next gear right around the same RPM you need to be at for the given speed the car is rolling down the road.

Make sense? Basically what I am saying is that if you shift 3rd at 3,000 rpm's, by the time you hit 4th, the engine will rev down to about 2100-2200 RPM's(normal shift) and that is also the RPM range your engine speed requires using the 4th gear at that speed.


If you are raping the car, shifting at 6k rpm's you still pick up in the right range for the next gear. 6k in 3rd is just under 90. At 90 mph, your knocking on the door at what, 4800-5000 rpm's in 4th? Shift out of 3rd at 6k, where do you think you are going to rev down to when you toss it into 4th and get going again?


Now if your engine speed drops to something like 2500 RPM's but you are going 90mph and shifting into 4th, you will force inertia to get the engine spinning at the right speed until the combustion cycle takes over. This period of time is short, but it does exist and the energy being transfered basically backwards through the drivetrain is what happens in that instance. It is hard on your drivetrain.

So if every time you shift you drop below that RPM range, every time you pick up the next gear, briefly, the wheels force the engine to pick up the RPM's to match the vehicle speed. You basically are "engine braking" for a second on every shift with a poorly matched flywheel and tranny. Ideally, you want to keep the engine in the RPM range you will be accelerating from. And, unless you change the gearing on your tranny, OEM flywheel is dialed in perfect for that.




Also, you may develop a habit of trying to rev match and correct the problem by flirting with the gas pedal while you shift. Rev match shifting has been around forever. Anyways, doing this incorrectly creates a situation for clutch damage.


Why? Why do any of this?

It WILL NOT make your car faster by any measureable amount. Differences in driving skills will make up more of a difference than changing out a flywheel for something lighter.

[steelbluesleepR]

i have a bully stage 3 clutch kit with a fidanza 10pounds flywheel, the motor is stock and i have absolutley nothing negative to say about this set up besides the fact thats its a ceramic clutch, so it squeeks a bit when the engine is cold.
the engine response is quicker, it revs easier, and i have no problem when going uphill from a dead stop lol...i guess that part is all between the driver seat and the steering
although i was told not to go lighter then 10 pounds for a stock motor as it would be useless and worn my clutch faster...
you gotta keep in mind that generally performance is at the expense of confort. in my case i went with bully because the pressure plate works with what they call ''neo-bearings'' so the pedal effort is just like an OEM clutch even tho its a stage 3 with 4 pucks on the clutch. and i picked the 10pounds flywheel instead of a 8,5pounds one to get something in between performance/confort. so far i love my setup! grips just fine when i go to the track, and feels confy enough for a daily drive.

Why on earth did you get a stage 3 clutch and bolt it to a stock motor? A stronger clutch does absolutely nothing until you start making more power than the stock clutch can handle reliably.

[Nocture]

Why do any of this? because it's fun! Sure, it won't make it faster, but it makes driving more enjoyable.

Yes, OEM is best...we know

[steelbluesleepR]

A clutch doesn't make it any more fun or show anything off. At that point it is literally just a waste of money.

[Cb7_Qc]

Why on earth did you get a stage 3 clutch and bolt it to a stock motor? A stronger clutch does absolutely nothing until you start making more power than the stock clutch can handle reliably.

i wanted a ''performance clutch'' because i plan on going turbo eventually so this part will be already done, i did it when i swapped my motor for the h22

another reason is that i originally wanted a exedy stage 2, but they didnt have any in stock so the guy offered me this bully stage 3 for actually cheaper then the exedy stage 2 (he was willing to make me a deal cause im a good customer of his and i wanted a clutch ASAP), i had the same reaction that u had, i figured it was a bit too much, i didnt want the pain of stop and go in the traffic with a stage 3, so he then explained me how this clutch kit works with the neo bearings, giving a OEM like pedal effort and that this particular clutch would not be a pain in traffic (told me he had the same on his silvia and he really loved it), i trust the guy because i have been buying part from this place for a lonnnng time, so i took a guess and bought it...
and guess what, it feels just like and OEM clutch, although i can tell it has more clamping force. ive had zero issue in the traffic, my leg never hurts (ive driven cars with other stage 3 clutches from other brand and they are hard on the legs after a while) and in the end i have aboslutly no regret buying it...trust me this bully clutch has nothing to do with a stage 3 from exedy or centerfoce has ive tryed both on other cars

i know its overpowered performancewise for my stock motor, but like i said, i wont need to buy another one when i go turbo and besides, feelingwise it doesnt feel like a stage 3...so what the heck, its a great clutch, was cheap, clamps hard, feels OEM yet makes my car a bit more nervous...i dont see whats wrong with my choice of clutch! it actually feels so oem that even my girlfriend had no problem driving the car even tho she has been driving and automatic mazda for last 3 years...i was surprised!

[GunRunner]

I've been running an exedy oe replacement clutch and 8lb fidanza flywheel since 2009 with zero issues. The setup has well over 50k miles on it now and I drive 65miles a day to work. Bone stock f22a6 and stock trans.

[Mishakol129]

I've been running an exedy oe replacement clutch and 8lb fidanza flywheel since 2009 with zero issues. The setup has well over 50k miles on it now and I drive 65miles a day to work. Bone stock f22a6 and stock trans.

I was thinking of getting a lightweight flywheel but as some have said here, a stock clutch and engine won't do you much good. Even more I think it will be more dangerous as I live in hills and during the snow season you have to load up the tires to make the engine slow you down and if you have a light flywheel this becomes much less effective.

How I see it:

Pros - faster revs, freed up hp. Allows for more fun driving style.
Cons - harder to drive, less inertia and possibly less torque, more vibrations.


I don't know if it will give you better mpg's or not.