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cd5 part in a cb

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    cd5 part in a cb

    does the f22 for the cd's fit our cb's?? and the tranny also?

    enV this!!!!

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    #2
    Originally posted by enVmeACCORDngly View Post
    does the f22 for the cd's fit our cb's?? and the tranny also?
    Yes.

    86 4Runner - 22RE 5spd, 4" Lift, 35x12.5R15 BFG Km2's, 4.10 gears
    "The Turtle"
    DD/Trail Rig/Mud Bug

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      #3
      should i get the f22 vtec with the tranny for 1050$? or just go h22? i

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        #4
        Originally posted by enVmeACCORDngly View Post
        should i get the f22 vtec with the tranny for 1050$? or just go h22? i
        get the h.

        Bought from: Bisimoto, FuncOvrForm, HondaGuy1212, wed3k, Konigstiger, 1st2run, BillKisme, k-mart, benjerman112

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          #5
          Uh go with the H22 (I assume your talking about an engine swap here right.) The F22 Vtec engines are more economy than performance.

          86 4Runner - 22RE 5spd, 4" Lift, 35x12.5R15 BFG Km2's, 4.10 gears
          "The Turtle"
          DD/Trail Rig/Mud Bug

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            #6
            h22

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              #7
              will i have to do alot to smog it?

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                #8
                No, if you do it right it's a smog legal swap. Go read up in the swap fourm.

                86 4Runner - 22RE 5spd, 4" Lift, 35x12.5R15 BFG Km2's, 4.10 gears
                "The Turtle"
                DD/Trail Rig/Mud Bug

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                  #9
                  IIRC , as long as it is a manual transmission , OBD1 , all sensors and vaccum lines connected properly , you can get it BAR'd easily.

                  1993 Honda Accord LX 2004-2009
                  1996 Honda Civic LX 2009-2012
                  2012 Kia Optima LX 2012-2013
                  2010 Honda Accord EX-L V6 2013-2018
                  2007 Honda Fit Sport 2017-2017
                  2018 Honda Accord EX-L 2.0T 2018-20XX






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                    #10
                    its auto

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                      #11
                      My thoughts and opinions and my story on JDM H22s

                      Originally posted by enVmeACCORDngly View Post
                      will i have to do alot to smog it?
                      Assuming you are going to buy a JDM motor from a engine specialist....then yes you sorta have to do alot to make everything "legit"

                      I failed B.A.R 8x and gave up. I have a JDM motor with good compression numbers etc. but for whatever ODD reason, my motor decided to be a bitch even after all the required modifications were done to pass the rigorous inspection.

                      The JDM motor is missing some smog equipment and US-spec features:
                      1) air booster valve (JDM motors have a blockoff plate

                      2) 1 port on the intake manifold is missing, you will either have to tap it yourself or sometimes you might get lucky and the BAR ref will not notice.... This was missing on my auto H22 swap from my old accord however my current j-spec h22a had this port with a vacuum plug which I removed and routed to my air-intake. I've seen alot of different H22s and it seems like some had them and some didn't but I noticed alot of autos are missing the fitting.

                      3) You will also need a US-spec ecu. 4)Another thing the motor needs which I never found on sites I researched is a OEM flywheel. I had a 11lb aftermarket flywheel and failed visual because it had no timing marks. Even if you have a aftermarket with "timing marks" the BAR ref told me he would've known it wasn't oem because the way the car would rev and the distinct oem honda timing mark. (Assholes)

                      The compression on the JDM motor is alot higher as well which makes it more difficult to pass the sniffer. It's not TOO extreme high over the USDM engine...but it's just enough to make it that much harder to pass the sniffer because its tuned for a higher octane gas which we don't have unless you live in texas or somewhere that has better than 91.

                      TIP: If you simply cannot find a USDM ecu, a trick some of my friends did was borrow a USDM ecu and change the ecu casing with the JDM one. The BAR ref is not going to sit there and take your ECU apart... all they want is the part#. In reality with lots of my friends jdm engine swaps that did pass BAR, using the JDM ecu actually worked out better for them. My theory is because naturally it's setup for the higher jdm compression ratio.
                      Honestly my thoughts on using the USDM ecu is a excuse for California BAR to fuck the "would be passers" that are only failing by a couple points. Putting in the USDM ecu is like putting in someone elses tune on your engine. The cars engine will run but not at it's full potential or run slightly richer or leaner during the 15mph test where most JDM engines fail. I tried the USDM p13 and the JDM P13 on my BAR attemps and the JDM p13 got me closer to pass than the stupid USDM ecu everytime. Mix some 100 octane race gas with 91 octane or use alcohol to get a much cleaner burn.

                      Some tricks that you can do is run a SRT-4 oem catalytic converter (really restrictive but traps harmful emissions more) or the alcohol in the gas tank trick (i was skeptical and desperate at first but that shit really works!!
                      It dropped my gross polluter points to 5points from passing)

                      If you want a easier way of passing.... you should get a USDM spec motor because the compression is a little lower making it easier to pass the sniffer and visually it will pass easily because it already has all the necessary smog equipment. The only drawback of getting a US-spec H22a motor is the fact that it will more likely have 100k+ miles considering a less hassle OBD1 drop in h22a1 I believe was only available from 93-96. The only other drawback of getting a USDM motor is the fact that they cost as much as a JDM Euro-R or Type-S swap sometimes. ($3500-$3800) depending on the engine dealer just because it's a US-spec motor which is sought for it's easy passibility.

                      A JDM replacement motor for a regular H22a would run from anywhere to $1200-$2800 depending on the engine dealer as well. If going fast isn't really your thing and you just want something to drive and have a little more "umph" then you could always get a JDM longblock for as low as $800 sometimes and use your F22 or H23 tranny and call it a day.

                      You could also use the US-spec H22a4s from the 97-01 which are OBD2 but the only drawback is that you have to do more stuff to get it to work in your OBD1 90-93 accord.

                      Most tuners stick to their cars OBD standard because of the less work and picky BAR refs can give you a hard time even when the equipment is functioning properly. I had a friend that failed visual twice under one local BAR ref at my local college because he put a OBD2 GSR in his 92 integra. The OBD1-OBD2 conversion didn't look "pretty" to the BAR ref so he failed him.... then he took it to another BAR ref in San Francisco and that BAR ref didn't say anything.

                      Cliff note: BAR REFS ARE 4x STRICTER THAN A REGULAR SMOG TECH. THEY WANT YOUR $$$ AND DON'T CARE IF YOUR CAR PASSES OR NOT BECAUSE THEY KNOW YOU WILL BE BACK COZ YOU WANT TO DRIVE YOUR CAR. Rule of thumb... if you fail a BAR ref once and again on the freebie retrial, try a different REF if the guy is nitpicking on stupid shit

                      Two times I failed was visual... What pissed me off is one B.A.R. ref saying I need ALL of the prelude emissions equipment (Prelude has those exposed on the firewall) when the accord has them in a blackbox.

                      The other one failed me on visual because I needed proof the ECU i had was in fact a US-spec ecu. I tried to show him via the internet but he wanted me to go to the Honda dealer for a print out (which by the way cost $85 for them to research the part # and put it on a honda certified printout)

                      So yes you really do have to go through a little hassle... but in the end it's so worth it not having to drive in fear of cops pulling you over and telling you to pop your hood. If they are smart, they will know a v-tec engine was never in our old cars and give you a REF ticket. The other benefit of having a BAR'd car is that you can take it to any smog station to get it smoged rather than paying a smog tech under the table ($200-$300) for a illegal smog.

                      Right now i'm like fuckit since my jdm h22a wants to be a dirty ho...i'll just keep adding illegal mods to make her even more of a faster slut
                      One thing that is cool about our cars is: It's a ACCORD! not alot of people would even think about modding the 90-93 boxy cars. I think cops will pull over a 5th gen more than a 4th gen because they look more "civicky"
                      I just hope I don't get pulled over by a bored cop.... I'm so far 9years two CB7s with illegal swap+mods with no hassle from cops.

                      Just drive normal around cops and don't get yourself in the position of a encounter if possible. Sometimes when I see a cop up ahead at a signal light. I get behind another car in the next lane or drive slow and let the Popo get hella far ahead to avoid his sight.
                      Last edited by Kurobei; 03-05-2009, 10:51 PM.
                      I need a custom turbo manifold built....
                      707 NorCal NinjaZ



                      Honda Twincam Motorwerkz?
                      "I am the Yakuza CB7!"
                      '92 Accord Sedan SiR

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                        #12
                        cops are stupid here,my friend got pulled over twice in not even 5 minutes, he got pulled over, dorve down the street and got pulled over again. I want to do a swap, but i want to do it the right way, my cb7 is a daily and no engine, means no where to go. I guess if i want the h22 ill just wait till i have enough, so i guess for now ima get the f22. really dissapointing, but what can i do. thanks everyone!

                        enV this!!!!

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                          #13
                          ahhhh haaaaa... sup rodell. yah just save up for the h and get it barred. thats what im planning on doing. i am also might go one step further..but thats a secret haha.

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                            #14
                            lol well damn im lucky i live in alaska barly any emissions reqs...

                            "accidents in the back seats cause kids"
                            but who says that i
                            have back seats in my sedan


                            THE ALASKA EXPERIMENT

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                              #15
                              goddam i am glad i got a smog hookup.

                              50bux got my h passed.

                              Bought from: Bisimoto, FuncOvrForm, HondaGuy1212, wed3k, Konigstiger, 1st2run, BillKisme, k-mart, benjerman112

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