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    Wobble

    Wobble issue when I brake at high speeds on driver side. I replaced the upper control arm and found the bolt on the right side was loose even though the bushing bolt was tight. Replaced outer tie rod and still have wobble during high speed braking under 10mph is fine but higher than that it wobbles when braking. Brakes smooth at 10 and under mph. bad rotor or should I loosen the bushing bolts and tighten again?
    To jdm or not jdm that is the question

    #2
    Originally posted by greenhornet614 View Post
    Wobble issue when I brake at high speeds on driver side. I replaced the upper control arm and found the bolt on the right side was loose even though the bushing bolt was tight. Replaced outer tie rod and still have wobble during high speed braking under 10mph is fine but higher than that it wobbles when braking. Brakes smooth at 10 and under mph. bad rotor or should I loosen the bushing bolts and tighten again?
    If you have no play when wiggling the wheel at 12/6 or 3/9 and the bushings look good and everything is tight, then this sounds like rotor warp. But this usually occurs on both sides. If only on the drivers side it sounds like a sticking caliper, have you checked your caliper pins?

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      #3
      No play in the steering wheel but yes, I still feel the wobble when applying the brakes. I do not drive my cb as much due to that as I will be ordering my rotors on rockauto and have my mechanic replace them as well as the pads. Thank goodness rockauto has great low prices for our cars. I would change the rotors myself but seeing that they are interfaced, well that makes it hard to do as a press is needed. All bearings, half shafts, and upper control arms have been replaced as well as the outer tie rods. So the last thing to do is put new brakes on her and she should be good to go for winter driving,
      To jdm or not jdm that is the question

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        #4
        press schmess. captive rotors are a breeze. get a dead blow hammer or use a piece of wood and a regular hammer to get the bearing out of the knuckle. if it wont budge soak it with some penetrating fluid, but if by chance your forearms are noodles then set up a ride to a shop for them to spend 2 minutes freeing them from the knuckles using a press and a good chuckle..but usually you can persuade them out pretty easily. ETCG even goes about it by having 4 bolts he swaps in and hammers on those to get it out.. then upon reassembly a little emery cloth on the knuckle bore, bearing diameter with a wipe of grease and put it all back together..
        I can do a set of rotors in an hour and a half on a good day. Ive done 3 different cars Ive never touched before w/o a press. and the one ive had previously apart was cake when getting back in there.

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          #5
          Thanks for the tip buddy. Due to the weather vastly changing here in ohio and me working 12 hour days, I'll be simply taking the greenhornet to my mechanic and have him replace the rotors. Thank goodness for rockauto.com for having great low prices for our cb7s
          To jdm or not jdm that is the question

          Comment


            #6
            Originally posted by greenhornet614 View Post
            Thanks for the tip buddy. Due to the weather vastly changing here in ohio and me working 12 hour days, I'll be simply taking the greenhornet to my mechanic and have him replace the rotors. Thank goodness for rockauto.com for having great low prices for our cb7s
            pretty hectic schedule man..and yeah i think today was the last nice day of the year, be prepared for hem and hawing when they see theyre captive rotors..the last place i worked at charged 600 bucks for a brake job on a CD5 lol (i think they might have gotten new bearings too but still..)

            Yeah rockauto has some really good prices, Im glad theyre around.

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