Spark plug threaded in wrong. Am I screwed?

[Connorvh]

So I bought a 93 accord about a year ago, and then was hit on the highway and it was totaled I liked the car so much that I bought another one, but the guy that I bought it from must have been a complete idiot. Everything that has been worked on wasn't put back together right. I went to do a tune up the other day and changed plugs 1 2 and 3 and when I went to change #4 figured out it is cross threaded.. And I just left it in. It's working for now but I know somewhere down the road that won't be the case and I will need to change it. Any advice on what I should do?

[Joey GT-R]

Stud extractors. I'm not sure if there is a DIY on it but if you google the process it's pretty much universal for engines.

[deevergote]

If it's cross threaded, the head is most certainly damaged. The threads on the head are softer than the threads on the plug. You could look into installing TimeCerts, but that's some fairly major work. It would be cheaper and easier just to find another head.

[Connorvh]

That is to get it out, right? But to put a new plug in would I have to re thread? And would it be much more difficult/expensive to just pull a different head from a junkyard?

[Connorvh]

If it's cross threaded, the head is most certainly damaged. The threads on the head are softer than the threads on the plug. You could look into installing TimeCerts, but that's some fairly major work. It would be cheaper and easier just to find another head.

Oh okay that's what i was thinking. Definitely not hoping for, but sounds simpler

[oni_cb7]

From my experience, I would suggest using a helicoil. I have had multiple good experiences with using helicoils on spark plug holes and crankshaft pulleys. I would attempt to do this before spending the money on a new head. Your head is nowhere near being destroyed and can easily be fixed.

However, if you don't feel comfortable drilling out your spark plug hole, then I would just resort to installing a new head. They can be found for $200-$400 online.

Good luck.

[PhatAccord]

so #4 plug is stuck in the cylinder head and wont loosen? i would spray wd-40 / liquid wrench in there and let it soak while the motor is cold. then try to break it free by hand. you really dont know how bad it is and whats necessary to fix it until its out. you may need to buy a tap and chase the threads. or worse case; install a time-sert or heli-coil.

[marvin75]

if and when you get the old plug out you can get a thread repair kit or sometimes called a thread chaser to possibly clean up the threads. you can get them at most auto parts stores.

[HCoupe]

I've done this before on first car/Honda lol, #2 or #3 shot out and put a dent in my hood and made my car sound like a lawnmower.

Alright this was like ten years ago and I can't sleep so here we go.

Like you're doing, I would wait (research, plan & save) till it pops out (#4 i think will only hit the bracing underneath the hood so no cosmetic damage), then fix it. You don't need to change a new plug for, don't quote me, like 50k miles.

The proper way i would fix this, take the head off give it to a shop to helicoil
the hole in question. Hell have them check valve seats & how even the head is (you can always do this yourself with liquid brake cleaner, and a straight edge ruler). Reinstall head.

*Disclaimer*
Don't do this!!!
Unless you're poor and or dumb (I am both).

If you got to fix it on the budget & right now, here's a cheap & easy way to fix it.

Any local auto store has like a $20 kit for this situation. The kit on the minimal consists of a tap, & various sleeves. You'll need a driver (socket & ratchet), a little grease, some thick oil like a 50 weight, hi temp locktite, anti-seize, vacuum cleaner/shop vac, duct tape and two feet of aquarium air tube like, tube. I was able to get some tubing that was just smaller than the spark plug hole (using a spark plug as reference), had some rigidity and was curved because of shipping or packaging.

Take the plug out. Using the tube make sure the piston is farther done than than the tap has threads, or at the bottom of its cycle (this exposes more surface area). Put the tube in the vacuum tube hole and tape it up. Test the vacuum setup on suspect hole, make sure you're not straining the vacuum motor, maybe open a small hole in the tape for relief. Apply a little grease to the head of the tap (so it doesn't fall out of the socket as easy). Dip the taps threads in the heavy oil, place the tap in hole. Try to go in straight, rotate clockwise. The tap will usually thread itself after a rotation or less with no pressure on it. The moment you feel resistance, check the tap and make sure it is straight. After this step there's no going back. Put the socket back on, apply just a little pressure down on the tap as you rotate it nice and slow.

People will say don't do this but, halfway through rethreading my plug's hole I backed out the tap and cleaned it of aluminum shavings. I then dipped the tap in the oil, put in back in the hole. I was cautious to thread it and not cross thread the taps the progress already made and continued.

You'll know when you have cut through. There will be little to no resistance, like threading a bolt through a nut. Back the tap. Start vacuuming the hole. Start at the top of the threads and work your way to the bottom of the threads. Pull the tube out and check and clean the tip and tube for metal shavings. Then vacuum the combustion chamber's walls, the piston's top while always pulling out and checking and cleaning the tip/tube of debris. After you feel comfortable vacuuming the cylinder and the surrounding area. Find the appropriate size sleeve and thread, for your plug. You'll need to apply hi temp locktite to the outside of the sleeve and anti-seize to the plug. Hand thread the plug into the sleeve. Install the plug and sleeve as if you were installing plugs.

[dahubby]

used head is 65 dollars at u-pull...might save time and frustration..

My bad, it was 69.99 with cam and 57.99 without cam. heres the pricing link.....

http://www.picknpull.com/part_pricin...=&#partpricing

[Flip-Eye]

If the threads are in fact damaged (Which you haven't confirmed yet) beware of metal filings ending up in the cylinder, if you decide to "chase" the threads with a tap. I would let some penetrating oil a couple times and going from there.