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All motor H series, good start?

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    #16
    Originally posted by KeelesKustome
    my setup some what has what you are doing..

    i have 11:5:1 comp.. and thats pretty much it,, but i did replace all bearings and seals and gaskets and rings,, when i took my rods and pistons out,, you will notice your brite white cylinder walls.... thats because they are alluminum, sp* anyways, most machine shops do not like hoaning these because you could screw them up. most shops use what looks like a wool pad.. but i asked a few around here of what i wanted to do and they were like yeah that would work.. so i took wetsanding paper with the grit of 320 and wet sanded the inside instead of haoning,, this just gave a slightly corser surface to let the rings seal and such,, remember when you put the motor back together you do not need to break it in on full synthetic oil,, it will not seal correctly,
    They are NOT made of aluminum they are made of FRM, Fiber Reinforced Material. Shops dont want to hone frm because you need a special stone from HONDA. And you have to know what you are doing.

    Also expect your engine to have problems if you want to hone your cylinders with sandpaper. Good luck.

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      #17
      Originally posted by KeelesKustome
      my setup some what has what you are doing..

      i have 11:5:1 comp.. and thats pretty much it,, but i did replace all bearings and seals and gaskets and rings,, when i took my rods and pistons out,, you will notice your brite white cylinder walls.... thats because they are alluminum, sp* anyways, most machine shops do not like hoaning these because you could screw them up. most shops use what looks like a wool pad.. but i asked a few around here of what i wanted to do and they were like yeah that would work.. so i took wetsanding paper with the grit of 320 and wet sanded the inside instead of haoning,, this just gave a slightly corser surface to let the rings seal and such,, remember when you put the motor back together you do not need to break it in on full synthetic oil,, it will not seal correctly,
      ban to noob forum
      FA1
      355

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        #18
        I was going to comment on that but then again I didn't want to be rude lol. but if your honing its best to do it the correct way and not use Scotch Brite to hone LOL.
        either kill it or drift it...

        2002 Toyota Tundra V8

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          #19
          scotch brite did you even read what i wrote?

          as for doing it the correct way. ummm i did....

          my motor does not smoke or leak anything at all.....

          sure the correct stone would have been nice....

          every shop around here saw what i did and told me i was golden there wouldn't be any problems, and 10,000 miles later there still aren't other than tranny solenoids.

          bash me all ya want, but that don't change the outcome..
          "Self Renewed"

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            #20
            Originally posted by bruno8747
            They are NOT made of aluminum they are made of FRM, Fiber Reinforced Material. Shops dont want to hone frm because you need a special stone from HONDA. And you have to know what you are doing.

            Also expect your engine to have problems if you want to hone your cylinders with sandpaper. Good luck.
            i must have good luck
            "Self Renewed"

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              #21
              Originally posted by wed3k
              the hell are fllat faced valves?
              rather than have a dish shaped (concave) surface on the face of the valve they make them flat, which are the so called "high compression" valves. It does raise the compression slighty, but they also weigh a bit more too, which to me just cancels out any power you gained by adding the compression.
              www.roskoracing.com << Euro-R manifolds/adapters and H22 parts

              >>check out my H23vtec build thread...
              http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2030543

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