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Stroke an H22

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    #46
    hmm

    so if i have a h22 and wanna stroke it all i have to do is drop out the h22 crank and putin the h23? does the oil squirters have to be removed? can't i use my h22 rods and pistons creating more compression..
    "Self Renewed"

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      #47
      found my answer here

      i see that with my high compression pistons i can swap the h23 crank and rods and create more displacement as well as boost the compression to 12:12 instead of 11:5:1
      would this hurt my motor? it wouldn't hurt it any more than turboing on small amount of boost??
      or i could use the f23 rods and have 11:49 compression
      i love that calculater
      "Self Renewed"

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        #48
        What that calculator doesn't tell you is the f23 rods are signigantly narrower than other f/h rods. That means they'd walk all over the crank journals creating a very big problem. The f23 rods also have a small bottom end rod diameter making them not even come close to fitting other f/h cranks. If you like that length rod, just have someone custom make you standard f22 rods to that length.

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          #49
          actually i don't like those rods at all (f23) i love the h23 rods though with 12:12 compression as well as stroked out, that would work well in my automatic and if the redline say is around 8 grand ,, perfecto! so scratch the f23 crap. but with 12:12 compression as long as i use 93 octaine my motor shouldn't ping should it,, and also with my p13 comp it has a knock sensor so it should fix it's self in theory
          "Self Renewed"

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            #50
            Originally posted by Muff
            actually i don't like those rods at all (f23) i love the h23 rods though with 12:12 compression as well as stroked out, that would work well in my automatic and if the redline say is around 8 grand ,, perfecto! so scratch the f23 crap. but with 12:12 compression as long as i use 93 octaine my motor shouldn't ping should it,, and also with my p13 comp it has a knock sensor so it should fix it's self in theory
            IMHO that much compression on pump gas isn't worth it. You'll have to pull so much timing out of the ignition map that you will have reversed any progress you have made with the compression. I would stick with something around 11.5:1 if you are going to keep it on pump gas and honestly with the right tune you will make just as much power.

            Knock sensors are typically useless and in no way should be used to compensate for lack of tuning. The thing with a knock sensor is that they are designed to hear a very narrow frequency range, and when you start switching out the internals of a motor, its no longer producing the same "noises" that the sensor was designed to pick up.

            Lastly, assuming your not gonna throw all this together and run a stock ecu, how do you plan to tune the P13?
            www.roskoracing.com << Euro-R manifolds/adapters and H22 parts

            >>check out my H23vtec build thread...
            http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2030543

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              #51
              One more thing, I've never bought into the whole you can't rev an H23 as high as an H22. Thats complete crap. If you want to rev either of them past the 7-8k range it should be balanced accordingly. Yes the H23 has more stoke, but its only 4.3mm and when you split that up per side its really not THAT much bigger. The only reason an h23 doesn't rev that high from the factory has to do with the intentions of that motor. It wasn't designed to be an n/a beast, just a fun little engine. Once the peak power of the cams drops off theres no need to rev any higher. That doesn't mean that the crank is gonna fly apart if you do.

              I've personally had H23 cranks up to 10k without any problems. Stock pistons are the weak link at that point.
              www.roskoracing.com << Euro-R manifolds/adapters and H22 parts

              >>check out my H23vtec build thread...
              http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=2030543

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                #52
                Sorry to butt in but I'm planning on doing an H23 VTEC(Stock Bluetop) or F20B(Bluetop) swap in the neat future....Yes,yes more money I know.... But anyways there's so very little support all I can find is H22 parts which kinda worries me ya know? But I want to LOWER compression on my car so that I can have like huge amounts of boost. The best I could find where Arias at 8.4. They also had F22A pistons which would drop CR to 8.2 would those fit in the H23 VTEC or F20B? Bisi sells pistons for $150 cheaper from Arias but I would have to make sure he offered that same CRs.

                But anyways to get to the point....I don't need to stroke or bore either engine do I? I mean the H23 is already 2.3 and the F20B is 2.24(correct?) I could possibly make that into a 2.3 I suppose but Im not sure if it really is worth it. But I just had to ask since I'm going to put some pistons in there anyways. And are the pistons sufficient enough by themselves? Again Arias says 8.4 like I said but they also offer Eagle rods should I go that route too?

                And while I'm here....should I decide to go all motor, which is very possible for the F20B since it already has the 11.0 what's the highest displacement I should go? One friend I talked to who likes that Honda V6 engine told me I should try and make 3.0 but I doubt I have the cash or the interest, plus the engine would probably fireball anyways....Thanx
                '94 JDM H22A: 178whp 146wtq

                Originally posted by deevergote
                If you say double dutch rudder, i'm banning you...

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