thats what ive always thought. it could definitely work, but like its been said, for the money and work might as well just go h22.
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F22a1 into D16
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Why not go with a re-ring kit from eBay? I've seen them on there for $150 or less with good quality rings and gaskets. Such as http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fits-Honda-P...983b3e&vxp=mtr
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I would probably opt for a rebuild myself, however, if budget and time are a concern. It's still probably cheaper and faster to drop in a used engine. After you tear down the block, take the block to a machine shop and check the bearings and cylinder bore and hone them. Then buy the kit and reassemble yuour looking at a lot of time and money.
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Originally posted by wed3k View Postbuy a rebuilt head, pop the pistons out, inspect bearings, re-ring and slap the new head on with the headgasket. call it a day.
I don't know if I'd trust a cheapie ring kit myself. I'm lazy, so I'd rather pay for quality parts that I KNOW are going to work the first time, rather than risk having to tear the whole thing apart sooner than necessary due to cheap parts!
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Honings easy if you have a drill you can do it aslong as cylinders aren't to out of spec or pitted. Good quality rings can be had for cheap Nippon is a OE supplier they usually run under $40, i've used them in all of my japanese rebuilds or builds not one problem.
02 Crv
02 silverado Ex cab Z71, 2011 TRD 17" wheels, 245/80/17, ls1 cam, AFE intake, 3" catback, tuned by Larry at LSXperformance&pcm tuning driven daily.
92 Acura Legend colbalt blue LS Coupe, custom intake, custom vibrant 2.5 cat back, led cluster and high beams, 2016 Coyote GT 18x8 wheels 235/40/18.
Coming Soon Tein TSX coilovers.
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Not related to the OP.
People can rag on a D all they want but the proof is in the pudding D's have ton's of support, potential and are easily attainable. I myself built a few very mild N/A D's (Up to around 130whp) and while not so powerful they would walk circles on a "Normal" bolt F cb why? because power to weight and gearing. I've rode in a friends 350whp vitara setup ek and drove it numerous times the car was no slouch ran a 7.8 on bad radials in the 8th and to my knowledge is still going strong 4 years later, yes the hype is B/H/K but power can be had the same can most definitely be said for an F minus the support and gearing.
Integra's came with D's overseas (Many run boosted Ds in the states), theres not a huge weight difference between a DC/DB vs a CB. While a D would do fine in a cb the true question is why? the F is a high power potential engine not to mention all the hassle putting a D in a cb.
02 Crv
02 silverado Ex cab Z71, 2011 TRD 17" wheels, 245/80/17, ls1 cam, AFE intake, 3" catback, tuned by Larry at LSXperformance&pcm tuning driven daily.
92 Acura Legend colbalt blue LS Coupe, custom intake, custom vibrant 2.5 cat back, led cluster and high beams, 2016 Coyote GT 18x8 wheels 235/40/18.
Coming Soon Tein TSX coilovers.
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If you're on a tight budget the best idea would be to get another block from a junkyard. If you can't do that, rebuild it, or find a parts car to buy and swap it out. Past that, the smartest thing would be to buy an h22 sap, but that's $2200+, but that price is from hmotorsonline.com, which is sold out of h22 swaps as of now.Originally posted by Quashishhahaha
noobs be like where to be buying hella flush yo?
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Originally posted by buyars View PostWTF? how? A D series i can get for like 350 easy. the full swap. There is no way i can get a H22a for that.
Motor ( trans optional )
ecu
exhaust welding
D series swap costs:
Motor
ecu
exhaust welding
custom transmission setup
custom mounts
custom axles
custom harness
and it will be mad SLOW. straining the engine on a daily basis under the strain of the heavier chassis will eventually break something.
F series motors are a dime a dozen possibly moreso than D series depending on your area. H>F>D
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