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Old 11-22-2018, 10:41 PM   #1
boulky12
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Car randomly died, Cranks but won't start.

Really could use some help and advice. My daily has been down since Tuesday. It's a 93 EX Auto Coupe

I bought this car for real cheap and have replaced all kinds of parts on it and it's been running in tip top shape for a while.

I did have a similar issue like this about 4 months ago, pretty much same symptoms, I replaced the Distributor and I was good to go! Until recently..

Drove the car to work and back no problems at all. Went for a beer run shortly after arriving home.

Made it to the gas station. Got the beer and myself back in the car. And I suppose it was here that whatever failed, had failed.

Started up the car like normal, put it in reverse, moved 2 feet, Dies.

Started up again, this time hesitated to start, and took more cranks. Put it in Reverse, moved 2 feet, Died again.

Started up again, more hesitation, more cranks than usual, this time I tried to manually keeps the rpms up just so I could make it home down the street. Slammed it in gear, took off down the street for a 1/4 mile until I had to stop for a stop sign. While stopped at the stop sign, It Died..

At this point, I had to mash the gas several times or even hold it all the way for it to start.

It was dying and barely starting several times while at the stop sign.

I went ahead and tried to slam it in gear again and make it across the intersection, but of course, it died right in the middle of the intersection lol.

At this point, it will not start anymore, just crank and crank.

Pushed it off the road, popped the hood, didn't see anything obvious, I let it cool down for a minute, Tried to start and just cranks. Had to get my dad to help me flat tow home.

Last couple days I've tried - New distributor, checked all fuses, battery connections tight and clean, grounds are tight, Ohm test on coil checks out, You can hear the fuel pump, Main Relay is clicking like normal, I actually removed the 12mm bolt at the end of the Driver side Fuel rail, A whole lot of fuel came out with the key forward, so I don't think its a fuel issue.

I'm not getting any codes other than EGR.

I'm really stumped because I'm not getting spark even with a new distributor and a coil that's giving good ohm readings.

I think that's all Ive tried so far. Sorry about the long post. Just wanted to be very clear on how the car acted up to the point its at now. Really need to get her back on the road so I appreciate any advice. Thanks
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Old 11-23-2018, 08:00 AM   #2
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"not getting spark"....well you're close. Do you know if the igniter was replaced in the distributor?
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Old 11-23-2018, 09:44 AM   #3
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Along with Raf99's question, was it a new distributor (from where?) or a different used one? Did you actually check at the plugs for spark? Did you check the injector resistor? Could also be the ECU (although I think my bad ECU resulted in no fuel).
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Old 11-23-2018, 10:59 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raf99 View Post
"not getting spark"....well you're close. Do you know if the igniter was replaced in the distributor?

Quote:
Originally Posted by fleetw00d View Post
Along with Raf99's question, was it a new distributor (from where?) or a different used one? Did you actually check at the plugs for spark? Did you check the injector resistor? Could also be the ECU (although I think my bad ECU resulted in no fuel).
Thank you guys for replying!

I believe the Ignitor was replaced. I bought the unit new from Autozone. It was $40 without cap and rotor, so I thought I'd give it a shot. All components inside of it look new.

I did check for spark at the plug. I tried only 1. Guess I could try another.

I tried to do a quick search for how to check the injector resistor box, but couldn't really find any procedure. Can you please elaborate on this
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Old 11-23-2018, 01:08 PM   #5
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Eric the car guy has a great breakdown on how to troubleshoot

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9K78XIhhjAQ
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Old 11-23-2018, 08:32 PM   #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boulky12 View Post
Thank you guys for replying!

I believe the Ignitor was replaced. I bought the unit new from Autozone. It was $40 without cap and rotor, so I thought I'd give it a shot. All components inside of it look new.

I did check for spark at the plug. I tried only 1. Guess I could try another.

I tried to do a quick search for how to check the injector resistor box, but couldn't really find any procedure. Can you please elaborate on this
Why are you asking about injector testing? You need to fix a no spark issue, man. How are you testing for spark? Is there carbon trailing on your wires? Did you use a spark tester with a ridiculously large gap?
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Old 11-24-2018, 09:38 AM   #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Grumpys93 View Post
Eric the car guy has a great breakdown on how to troubleshoot

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=9K78XIhhjAQ
Thank you. Good video. I did try to ground the coil like he did. And I did get a spark! I have yet to do the Ignitor test he showed. I'm going to try that one when we get back from this mini bike racing event

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Why are you asking about injector testing? You need to fix a no spark issue, man. How are you testing for spark? Is there carbon trailing on your wires? Did you use a spark tester with a ridiculously large gap?
I was asking about it because it was mentioned earlier. But you're right I should be focusing more on why I don't have spark at the plugs.

I'm pulling the plugs, Clicking them back on the wire, and grounding out on the exhaust shield. Scratched a spot with some sandpaper. I'm not holding the plugs with too far of a gap to ground. I actually had it pretty close and still nothing.

I tried cyl 1 and 4 again this morning. Still nothing

I've never heard of carbon trailing on the wires? How does that happen? They look pretty normal

Last edited by boulky12; 11-24-2018 at 09:38 AM. Reason: Explain more
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Old 11-25-2018, 01:08 PM   #8
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I tried the ignitor test from the video.

Got a test light. Put one end on + battery post, other end on the Black/white wire on the connector at the coil. I saw in another thread that this is the Ignitor output (technically ground or negative controlled by the ECU. I believe this is the correct wire to be testing.

So my results were that my test light was blinking. According to ErictheCarGuy, that indicates the ignitor is good and probably a bad coil. But my ohm test shows I have a good coil?

I'm thinking about hitting up the Pick n pull today before they close and grabbing a few coils to see if I can get this thing started again. I saw they had them only $10 each. Autozone is like $50.

If that dosen't do it.. I might just have to find another Cb and use this one for parts cuz she's starting to make me maadd
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Old 11-25-2018, 04:09 PM   #9
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No reason to scrap a car for a faulty ignition part.

Fleetwood suggested checking injector pulse to see if the computer is seeing crank signals, so that would be a good step. (Didn’t read all the posts, sorry Fleetwood I wasn’t trying to negate your suggestion)

Sounds like a shorted coil though so you’re on a good path. Make sure you get a coil from a 92-93. 90-91 are different.

Did you test primary and secondary coils?
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Old 11-25-2018, 05:12 PM   #10
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No reason to scrap a car for a faulty ignition part.

Fleetwood suggested checking injector pulse to see if the computer is seeing crank signals, so that would be a good step. (Didn’t read all the posts, sorry Fleetwood I wasn’t trying to negate your suggestion)

Sounds like a shorted coil though so you’re on a good path. Make sure you get a coil from a 92-93. 90-91 are different.

Did you test primary and secondary coils?
I tried another coil from the junkyard. Passed the ohm test also. Still wont start

I am testing the Primary and Secondary. On primary I'm getting .6 -.7. On secondary 17.5 Kohms.

I tried cleaning the ground at the T-stat housing. Still nothing..
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Old 11-25-2018, 11:03 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by boulky12 View Post
Thank you. Good video. I did try to ground the coil like he did. And I did get a spark!
This says coil is okay... did you check wire resistance? Anything that meters over around 25k ohms at this wire length should be replaced, and if any read OL they’re broken.

Does your replacement distributor have a lifetime warranty?
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Old 11-26-2018, 09:03 AM   #12
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When you replaced the distributor did you replace the cap and rotor as well?
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Old 11-26-2018, 02:23 PM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by F22Chris View Post
This says coil is okay... did you check wire resistance? Anything that meters over around 25k ohms at this wire length should be replaced, and if any read OL they’re broken.

Does your replacement distributor have a lifetime warranty?
I have not checked the wire resistance yet but I will once I get home from work. Thanks

The replacement distributor from Autozone does have a 1 year warranty. I been thinking if I cant figure anything out I'll take it back up there and try to get another cause it might have a bad ignitor.

Quote:
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When you replaced the distributor did you replace the cap and rotor as well?
The distributor I bought from Autozone came without cap and rotor for 40 bucks. So I went ahead and just used my old cap and rotor. And those are only 4 or 5 months old.

Do you think its worth a shot to buy another cap and rotor?

The metal piece on the edge of the rotor did look a little brownish, but usually this is normal right?
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Old 11-26-2018, 11:10 PM   #14
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If you coil is good and your igniter is good then the only thing standing in between that and the spark plugs are the wires, distributor cap, and rotor. might be worth a try and if it doesn't work return the cap and rotor.
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Old 11-27-2018, 08:59 AM   #15
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You said you had spark at the coil but not at the plugs. That likely means either the cap/rotor or the wires.
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Nevermind guys, google search works wonders!

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Old 11-27-2018, 07:55 PM   #16
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If you coil is good and your igniter is good then the only thing standing in between that and the spark plugs are the wires, distributor cap, and rotor. might be worth a try and if it doesn't work return the cap and rotor.
Quote:
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You said you had spark at the coil but not at the plugs. That likely means either the cap/rotor or the wires.
So to make sure it was something in the distributor I had my buddy Edgar (dreamability) borrow me his spare dizzy. Thank you bro

Slapped it on after work and she fired right up!

Went to vatozone to get a cap and rotor, installed it on my old dizzy, installed the dizzy, fired right up!

Man I feel stupid!! All this because of a $15 cap and rotor!!

Really didn't think it was this all along because like I said, the old ones were only 4-5 months old. And the way the car just stopped starting, I didn't know they could just fail like that. Lesson learned!!

Thank you all for your help. I really appreciate it.

Excited to be driving her to work again in the morning

And I look forward to installing the Tein Street advance's that just arrived for her, this weekend
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Old 11-27-2018, 09:55 PM   #17
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Can you show us pics of your old cap and rotor?

Edit: I’m just curious to see what the failure mode was.
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Old 11-29-2018, 12:39 PM   #18
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Can you show us pics of your old cap and rotor?

Edit: I’m just curious to see what the failure mode was.
Here are the bad cap and rotor. I think the rotor took most of the hit.





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Old 11-29-2018, 12:57 PM   #19
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That rotor looks burnt bad. Like some arcing was going on.
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Old 11-29-2018, 03:24 PM   #20
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That sounds about right
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