I have the manual and ive done a lot of research on it. I think I could do it but I'm just don't have the money to pay dude for something I could do myself. I know the tension on the timing belt has to be released and then its just disconnecting exhaust and a few things like the distributor and thermostats housings. I really think I can do it! Anyone that has done this before and could give a noob mechanic some tips would be greatly appreciated. Also I know to put motor at TDC and have rotor on position #1 so the timing stays in place.
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all i will tell u is to keep everything organize get some sandwich bags and label every screw u pull from the motor and when u disconnect grounds from the housing make sure u put the screw back so u know where your grounds go and last but not least take pics before so u know where everything goes that the only thing i could think of also good luck with doing the head gasket that the first thing i would have did getting another motor i dont know anything about also the timing belt and water pump
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Get a good torque wrench that goes as high as you'll need. Be sure to remove the head studs as directed, in the proper order. Do that wrong, and you'll warp the head.
Take the head to a machine shop to ensure it's true. You don't want them to shave off too much material, but you'll need to remove enough to make it flat if it's warped. Blown head gaskets often warp heads.
I hope "the manual" isn't a Haynes or Chiltons... those things suck. Helm is the only one worth owning.
Originally posted by 92accordkidd View Postall i will tell u is to keep everything organize get some sandwich bags and label every screw u pull from the motor and when u disconnect grounds from the housing make sure u put the screw back so u know where your grounds go and last but not least take pics before so u know where everything goes that the only thing i could think of also good luck with doing the head gasket that the first thing i would have did getting another motor i dont know anything about also the timing belt and water pump
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Haynes is better than Chiltons (Chiltons focuses on all Accords and Preludes from 1984 to 1995... that's like 7 very different cars!) but the Helm manual is the official Honda shop manual. Helm has the rights from Honda to reproduce it.
I read mine while taking a dump. It's so easy to follow, I can even learn that way!
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Got to the mechanics house and started car, it sounded good except it was pouring antifreeze out near timing cover. I got the car home and took off head and found two holes on either side of head from where he drilled out exhaust mani bolts that broke off.... So now I'm waiting on the dude to get me a new head so I can fix the car. Damnable yo! Never gonna use this guy again...
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Originally posted by mikeys92cb7 View PostThe guy drilled to deep when he was drilling out broken exhaust mani bolts and there is now a hole on both sides of the head that antifreeze is coming out of. If he wouldn't have gone so deep my car would be running by now!
Applying some RTV on the studs with the holes drilled into the water jacket should stop that.
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Having to put RTV on bolts to seal coolant jackets is nothing new. SBC guys always have to use it on the intake manifold bolts. I have always used the Permatex Black in the squeeze tube. Works great and doesn't harden like some of the other stuff. That way you can still remove the bolts if the need be.
I would be against the use of JB weld in this situation.Last edited by GhostAccord; 12-14-2013, 04:30 PM.
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